67 small block won't start
It's been 3-4 weeks since I last had an opportunity to start/ drive my 67 327-300 convertible, which ran beautifully when parked. Car is very original. I turned the key this morning and it turned over several times. I paused cranking, pumped the gas a few more times and tried again. This time when I turned the key nothing happened. The radio doesn't work, gauges don't activate...dead silence, no ticking, nothing. The battery is relatively new, less than 1 year old. All wiring is original. Ignition and keys are original as well. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated as I have limited mechanical experience/ aptitude and after 8 years have yet to find qualified mechanics in my zip code.
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Re: 67 small block won't start
Keith - If there are also no lights, the battery and battery connections would be the first places I'd go to. Good luck. Pete -
Re: 67 small block won't start
I'll check, but it cranked with normal strength 10 seconds prior to the second attempt. the second attempt was dead silent; makes me wonder if there could be problems in the ignition switch itself?Comment
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Re: 67 small block won't start
I'll check, but it cranked with normal strength 10 seconds prior to the second attempt. the second attempt was dead silent; makes me wonder if there could be problems in the ignition switch itself?
I checked; you were right, its the battery. Not dead; leads are tight but battery itself is loose on its tray, and there is a vertical piece of metal roughly 8" high x a similar dimension wide which is also loose, located at the edge of the battery tray between battery and motor.
I need to get a visual of what this arrangement is supposed to look like on a correct car so I can re-arrange and tighten everything down snug. This may help explain a number of electrically related oddities I've noticed off and on since the battery was replaced.Comment
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Re: 67 small block won't start
check the firewall plug thats below the master cylinder, inside engine compartmentComment
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Re: 67 small block won't start
I agree with Pete, check the battery cables for corrosion. After cranking the engine the cables get hot and resistance will not let the current travel to the starter. Thats the first place to look.
The vertical shield you describe is a heat shield, I can't remember how it's installed only to say on previous years it's part of the top shield. Make sure the shield does not come into contact with the + or - battery cables or you will have something else to worry about.
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Re: 67 small block won't start
Often times with bad cable connections, the accessories will be on in "ON" position, then go off when you turn to "START".
Stu FoxComment
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Re: 67 small block won't start
I'm looking at the loose heat shield, and no tie down bar/ strap, and a smaller dimensioned battery (not a proper reproduction which I assume would fill the tray) as a recipe for disaster. I had the battery replaced by a 'pro' but never inspected the replacement until last night. The battery slides freely back and forth on the tray, and the heat shield is very loose. I can't see it, but there must be a screw holding it on by a thread because it won't come off. I'll roll it out into daylight this AM and have another look.Comment
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Re: 67 small block won't start
A dead give away is when you lose ALL electrical functions in the cockpit (interior lights, dash, radio, cig lighter, Etc.). This is a clear indication to a factory trained mechanic that the car's main fuseable link blew...Comment
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Re: 67 small block won't start
Check the "battery cables". I agree as this is often the case. Franky, I have yet to see a fusible link blow on these cars. Do they even have one per say? Do you know how to complete a voltage drop test? This would isolate the battery terminals and the battery cables. This should be a relative easy isolation/fix as all electrical is gone.
RickComment
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Re: 67 small block won't start
Hum, if I remember correctly, 1967 was the debut year for the use of fusible links to protect the unswitched/un-fused circuitry of the car. But, you can confirm/deny, Richard.
If you've yet to experience a failure, just wait... I lost one in my '71 on a National Road Tour and the checks you suggest (valid and a good place to start) at the battery cables had the NCRS experts along for the ride scratching their heads.
Heck, they even insisted on jumper connections to TWO other cars before they drove off leaving me in 'Elephants Breath, Wyoming'. Every man jack of them swore there was no fusible link on the car to protect the un-fused/un-switched electrical circuits.
But, after they left, I managed to get the front of the car off the ground high enough to get to the fusible link (warpped INSIDE the harness serving the starter). Shore nuf, she was expanded, spongy and blown.
A quick walk down the street to the FLAPS, a $1.75 later and after a quickie cut & splice, I was back up and on the road to catch up with the boys in St. Lake City.Comment
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Re: 67 small block won't start
Thanks for the information. I am always amazed what I learn in this forum. My cars are both older than 67, so this is news. (Especially good news from an electrical standpoint)
RickComment
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Re: 67 small block won't start
RICK
Check the ground cable at the frame. If you have a bad ground nothing will work. I had the same problem before it started fine & when I went to restart everythin was dead. Cables tight at the battery but the ground was corroded & hence nothing worked. If nothing is working it can't be a starter ETC. It wiould seem to be battery, ground or fuse.
KEN65 350 TI CONV 67 J56 435 CONV,67,390/AIR CONV,70 454/air CONV,
What A MAN WON'T SPEND TO GIVE HIS ASS A RIDEComment
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Re: 67 small block won't start
Keith -
There are no fasteners securing the heat shield - it has two 90* flanges on the bottom edge, and the battery sits on those flanges, holding the shield in place. The correct size battery (Group 24) fills the tray and holds the shield, as shown in your Assembly Manual (UPC 12, sheet A6).Comment
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Re: 67 small block won't start
I thought as much; the battery is too small and is skating around on the thin ice of a new day. I wonder now that you mention it, if this might explain peculiar electrical episodes like why one night on my way home I hit some rough road and the lights dimmed and then became bright again...could be the battery leads were bumping into metal bits they had no business bumping into...
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