67 small block won't start

[John H.]

Re: 67 small block won't start

I thought as much; the battery is too small and is skating around on the thin ice of a new day. I wonder now that you mention it, if this might explain peculiar electrical episodes like why one night on my way home I hit some rough road and the lights dimmed and then became bright again...could be the battery leads were bumping into metal bits they had no business bumping into...

Keith -

The correct battery has a molded-in formation at the bottom of the case for the hold-down clamp, which is secured by a bolt that threads into a weld-nut in the battery tray. If the battery isn't tightly secured and bounces around, it can damage the plates, causing internal shorts, followed by the death of the battery.

[Keith N.]

Re: 67 small block won't start

Time to go battery shopping. I'm fortunate things didn't turn out for the worse Thanks for your help!

[William C.]

Re: 67 small block won't start

67 Was the first year for the fusible link protection in the wiring.

[Gerald C.]

Re: 67 small block won't start

Bill,

How can I identify a fusible link in the wiring? I think I have an issue going to the fuel gauge and the ignition from the top position in the fuse block with the 10 amp fuse.

Jerry

[William C.]

Re: 67 small block won't start

OK, the fusible link is located at the starter solenoid. From there it goes to the engine side of the fuseblock and then thru the connection at the front of dash to the interior.

[Gerald C.]

Re: 67 small block won't start

Bill,

Will the wire be burnt? The car runs well but the fuel and temp gauge doesn't work.

Jerry

[William C.]

Re: 67 small block won't start

You would have more than just those out if the Link was blown, I'd look elsewhere.

[John H.]

Re: 67 small block won't start

Bill,

Will the wire be burnt? The car runs well but the fuel and temp gauge doesn't work.

Jerry

Jerry -

That circuit from the top fuse feeds the fuel gauge (18-ga. pink), fuel tank sending unit (20-ga. pink), backup lights (18-ga. pink), and the parking brake alarm warning light (20-ga. pink); if none of those four items are working and the fuse keeps blowing, you have a short in one branch of the circuit. The fusible link isn't involved - it's at the starter solenoid end of the 10-ga. red main power feed wire.

[William F.]

Re: 67 small block won't start

When the firewall connection has problems, corrosion,etc., EVERYTHING will go engine, lights, interior stuff. Doesn't have to be a blown fusible link. Very sphincter tightening at night on a busy highway. Don't ask me how I know.

[Gary S.]

Re: 67 small block won't start

When the firewall connection has problems, corrosion,etc., EVERYTHING will go engine, lights, interior stuff. Doesn't have to be a blown fusible link. Very sphincter tightening at night on a busy highway. Don't ask me how I know.

I had a 66 small block with issues related to the firewall connections. I resolved my problems by pulling the connections apart and carefully applying Naval Jelly onto the connection halves and letting it sit for a few seconds. I rinsed liberally and then reapplied it in increasing time increments until the corrosion was gone. I really don't recall how long I finally left the Naval Jelly on there but it wasn't long. I rinsed it well and then sprinkled baking soda on the connections to neutralize the remaining acid and then let it dry well. My biggest concern was getting the acid somewhere I didn't want it or intend it but I put my fender skirts onto the fender, an old towel on the cowl and others areas. A bit drastic but it worked.

[William F.]

Re: 67 small block won't start

You don't need naval jelly. Buy some electrical contact cleaner. May have to scrub a bit with Qtip, etc. May need to insert a small screw driver bit into center of connectors to spread them to make good contact with its mate on other plug, especially the one for the big wire in upper corner. Then coat pins with dielectric grease and put connectors back together.

[William F.]

Re: 67 small block won't start

I must have had a brain poot. I used an old toothbrush, not a Qtip to scrub the connector pins with the contact cleaner. I did use a Qtip to apply the dielectric grease to the pins. Was a fix. but had to repeat a year or so after first time. Second time I used the small screwdriver to spread the pins after repeat cleaning for better contact with one another. No problems in several months since procedure. As has been mentioned in a previous thread, can run a #12 jumper wire from bottom post of headlight relay on left side of driver's kick plate to one of screws on horn relay to give added insurance.

[Gary S.]

Re: 67 small block won't start

William F.,
the reason I used the Naval Jelly was due to extensive corrosion on the connectors. Relying on 20 year old memory here, but it was greenish and somewhat crusty. Like you, I used an old toothbrush to get the heaviest part of the corrosion (I'm thinking it's called verdigris?) off of the copper connectors. It worked quite well, once I remembered to disconnect the battery! I would use this technique again in situations similar to this due to the amount of corrosion present.