1957 Block dipstick

[Theodore K.]

I have been re-building a 57 engine for my 57 vette. I am nearing the end of this process. I bought a new upper and lower dipstick tube for the block. I have the lower tube installed okay. I went to install the curved upper tube and absolutely could not get it to insert and tried to drive it into the block. Finally in desperation I ground a little off the lower portion and finally was able to drive it into the block. I thought it was secure but after putting the exhaust manifolds on, it has become loose. If I insert the new dipstick into the tube and try to pull it out, the entire tube comes out. I have 2 questions.
1. Does anyone have any really good ideas on how to drive this tube into the block securely? (I may have to order another one).
2. Is there something I can secure the present one with? I am thinking about using locktite around the tube but wanted to see if there were any other ideas.
Thanks in advance for any help.
Ted

[Joseph T.]

Re: 1957 Block dipstick

I have been re-building a 57 engine for my 57 vette. I am nearing the end of this process. I bought a new upper and lower dipstick tube for the block. I have the lower tube installed okay. I went to install the curved upper tube and absolutely could not get it to insert and tried to drive it into the block. Finally in desperation I ground a little off the lower portion and finally was able to drive it into the block. I thought it was secure but after putting the exhaust manifolds on, it has become loose. If I insert the new dipstick into the tube and try to pull it out, the entire tube comes out. I have 2 questions.
1. Does anyone have any really good ideas on how to drive this tube into the block securely? (I may have to order another one).
2. Is there something I can secure the present one with? I am thinking about using locktite around the tube but wanted to see if there were any other ideas.
Thanks in advance for any help.
Ted

As I recall..someone said before to put the new dipstick tube in the freezer overnight then insert into block. once it warms back to normal it will fit properly.

[Dan D.]

Re: 1957 Block dipstick

I have no intentions of hijacking this thread, but I am very interested as I will be fighting this battle very shortly. I have a 63 engine and chrome plated top tube. This should be even worse. I have preliminary tried it just to see how it felt, and I can tell you it does not fell like it even wants to try and start. So I will be reading this thread with great interest. -Dan-

[Alexander C.]

Re: 1957 Block dipstick

Same here. My original upper dip stick tube is a tiny bit loose and moves if I bump it or pull the dip stick out too hard or fast...

[Joe L.]

Re: 1957 Block dipstick

I have been re-building a 57 engine for my 57 vette. I am nearing the end of this process. I bought a new upper and lower dipstick tube for the block. I have the lower tube installed okay. I went to install the curved upper tube and absolutely could not get it to insert and tried to drive it into the block. Finally in desperation I ground a little off the lower portion and finally was able to drive it into the block. I thought it was secure but after putting the exhaust manifolds on, it has become loose. If I insert the new dipstick into the tube and try to pull it out, the entire tube comes out. I have 2 questions.
1. Does anyone have any really good ideas on how to drive this tube into the block securely? (I may have to order another one).
2. Is there something I can secure the present one with? I am thinking about using locktite around the tube but wanted to see if there were any other ideas.
Thanks in advance for any help.
Ted

Ted------


You could try using the GREEN Locktite used for sleeve locking. It might work; I've never used it for this application though.

These tubes are an interference fit into the block and they are a one-time-only sort of thing. If they are installed and subsequently removed, the interference fit is lost and cannot be re-established, although the green Loctite might substitute for it.

If you grind down the area below the collar, as you have apparently done, that will reduce or eliminate the interference fit, so the problem you've encountered is just what I'd expect.

Here's how to do it:

1) Grind a bevel on the lower end of the tube as pictured below;

2) Apply a light coat of grease to the tube;

3) Place the tube in the freezer for several hours;

4) Make sure the orifice in the block is 100% clean and free of any dirt, rust, or scale;

5) Remove the tube from the freezer and IMMEDIATELY install it using a self-fabricated driver tool like the one I have pictured below.

[Brooks G.]

Re: 1957 Block dipstick

Theodore, I recently replaced both the upper and lower dip stick tubes in the 265 engine for my '56. Like you I had difficulty installing the upper tube. I purchased both from Paragon. I ended up filing and sanding the end of the tube till I got the fit I wanted. I have not seen this in any reference but this may be one of those parts that are file to fit. I made sure to clean the tube before test fitting it. If you take a little too much material off, I have used a center punch to stipple the area near the flare. I prefer to use an automatic center punch as I think it makes the job easier for me only having to use one had on the tool and the other to hold the part to be punched. I used a hammer and a block of wood on the flare to drive the tube in place. If you don't care I would like to know how your dip stick registers with the new upper tube. I would also like to know what oil pan you are using and how many quarts of oil. I wish you all the best on your restoration. Brooks Glover (2141)

[William C.]

Re: 1957 Block dipstick

Nice tool design Joe!

[Joe L.]

Re: 1957 Block dipstick

Nice tool design Joe!

Bill------


With this tool it's very easy to line up the dipstick tube so that the tube is exactly aligned with the block orifice. If the tube has an "angled entry" it will never install properly and will easily fall out.

It's also easy to drive the tube into the orifice. Of course, one wants to minimize the amount of force required to do the installation and that's the reason for the grease, freezing and scrupulous cleaning of the orifice. One very important caution here: the tube should be driven down to the point where the bottom of the collar JUST CONTACTS THE BLOCK. DO NOT continue pounding beyond this point because it will flatten the collar and seriously weaken the tube. Then, the tube will likely subsequently break off right above the collar.

It's very easy to make this tool from a piece of steel bar stock, a brass tee, and a piece of aluminum channel for a tube guide.

[Theodore K.]

Re: 1957 Block dipstick

Joe thanks for the advice. Just wanted to let you know that I tried a combo. I froze the tube that I had ground down, use blue thread locker and then quickly drove it back in and let it sit for a day before inserting the dipstick. It seems to be holding good and I have driven the car about 100miles and it is still holding good. Don't know how long it will hold but I shall remember the advice in case I have to redo the dip stick.

I really appreciate the invaluable help you have provided to all us NCRS members over the years. I attended one of your seminars on steering boxes back at the steamboat springs convention. It was also very helpful. Keep up the good work.
Ted

[Theodore K.]

Re: 1957 Block dipstick

Brooks--I wanted to reply to you now that I have pretty much completed the work. My 1957 rebuild is using a 350 pan. The old pan was too far gone to straighten and reuse. I have the original 1957 cannister oil filter which I think Holds a bit more oil. I have put in 6 quarts of oil (an extra one on my machinists advice) and it currently is shown just a bit (1/8") over the full line. I suspect that with 5 quarts (after I change the initial fill) it will be somewhat below the line.

Wanted to let you know that to fix my loose problem, caused by my grinding down the bottom below the flare, I froze the tube and put on blue thread locker and then drove down into the block and let sit for a day before inserting the dipstick. It seems to be holding now and after 100miles on the engine is still holding well. Don't know how long that will be but all the advice here was helpful. If it comes loose I may stipple it as you did and reinsert.

Regards,
Ted