Mid year values- help

[Edward J.]

I am going to be looking at a 64 vert. this coming weekend, its a number matching 75k car- according to owner, p/b, p/window, p/strg. knock off wheels- originals,aux. top. power guide, 327/300. he did tell me the engine was recently rebuild and front suspension redone, original everything in interior, but says all is in great shape for its age.

First, I would like a approx.value of this car I do understand this is not a car sitting in front of you, I know that I will certainly be painting back to it original color satin silver, ( its now resale red). the body is a no hit body. ( thats a good plus since most midyears I have looked at have been in demo derbys).

Second, What else should I be looking for besides the bird cage and frame?


Thanks, Ed

[Tom H.]

Re: Mid year values- help

Hi Ed !

I'd say the car is 30ish based on recent ones I've seen. Just look at the same things you would look for in any older Corvette. You need to ask yourself, How complete is it ? How does it run and drive ? The rest comes down to how much you like the car and what it will take to make it the car you want !

[Edward J.]

Re: Mid year values- help

Tom, Thanks for your response, I was looking at possiably what is unique about the 64 model year, I know the 63 can be a nightmare when looking at whats correct for any given time during that model year, as I have learned for a friend who has a 63 vert.

As car good through so many owers in 45+ years things get changed. this car from talking with owner seems to be what I am looking for. but would like to go armed and ready to make the right choice.

[Doug L.]

Re: Mid year values- help

Ed,
This may be too late to use but since you already own a Corvette you probably know the obvoius things to look for: Vin plate and data on it (on horizontal brace under the glove box). You should be able to read the codes and understand what they mean, particularly the car final assembly date.

Then there is the engine. You should know how to read the stamped data on the right front of the block and verify that the VIN on the engine matches the VIN on theVIN plate under the dash.

Also on the engine block you should check the casting date and the part number of the block. The casting date (left rear of block) must be before the car assembly date and no more than ~6 months before that date. The block part number (right rear) should end in "...870".

The cylinder heads will have part numbers and dates cast into them. You should know what to look for and how to read them. The same applies to many other components of the car (fuel pump, starter, water pump, bellhousing, transmission, differential, etc.

The '63 had lots of parts that were unique to that year. in my opinion the split window coupe is the only reason to chose a 63. The 64 has drum brakes whereas in 65 they changed to 4-wheel disc brakes; a reason many choose 65 or later. Those who are interested in big-block cars won't want 63 or 64.

The 30-40K estimate is probably accurate for the car you describe.

Let us know what you find and what you did.
Doug
64 FI roadster

[Edward J.]

Re: Mid year values- help

Doug,thanks for taking the time to post your advice. I am still looking and trying to find a happy median in price vs the cars resto costs. tough to try and balance the cost the plus resto. Ed

[Doug L.]

Re: Mid year values- help

Hi Ed,
A lot will probably depend on the extent of restoration you want and decide to make. Parts and specialized service to rebuild parts are not cheap. You could take a sellers catalog, such as Long Island Corvette and calculate the cost to replace parts that you know will need to be replaced or that you want to replace. That would possibly get you in the ball park on restoration cost.

My 64 needed everything. It was rather complete but in bad condition. The fact that is is an original fuel injection car made me decide it was worth the initial cost. I probably over-paid for the car but the potential to recover the cost exists because of the FI aspect.

What was the guy asking for the car?
Doug

[Edward J.]

Re: Mid year values- help

Doug, the asking price was 35k he said he would take 32.5k it was a number matching car (major parts), but had some frame rust and the frame end plates replaced. it was still a not bad overall, its never had a frame off, and the body was a no hit car. there was one thing I noticed that the pass door line in rear off about 1 inch when I opened the door , and the conv. lid was touching the rear qtr. panel. the body mounts were in tough shape the rubbers were flatten out and dry rotted, all orignal interior, It was painted 3 different colors.engine bay looked all original except for the engine was rebuilt a few years ago.this car was not molested in any way over the years but was driven in the New England area maybe a few winters.I thought maybe the value to be about 30k.

I have been a mechanic for 40 yrs and have no problem performing most of the work myself. so theres is a little leed way for the price.

[Timothy B.]

Re: Mid year values- help

ED,

The fact that it's a no hit body is a very compelling reason to look close at the car. Do you really want a P/G car, I prefer a four speed myself but the car has nice options..

You can bet at $32,5 you will have a solid 40 when finished if you do all the work and paint.. Factor your time and you will probably have invested what it's worth in the market. If that's the case do you like this car that much..

[Edward J.]

Re: Mid year values- help

ED,

The fact that it's a no hit body is a very compelling reason to look close at the car. Do you really want a P/G car, I prefer a four speed myself but the car has nice options..

You can bet at $32,5 you will have a solid 40 when finished if you do all the work and paint.. Factor your time and you will probably have invested what it's worth in the market. If that's the case do you like this car that much..

Tim, Upon my inspection the car opitions were not as quoted in the ad, Due to the fact the owner was not a NCRS guy, the Engine was a RC CODE (250 hp car) and the knock offs were original but added. so only (4), everything else was as stated.

I really do want a 4 spd. car but this price range is about what I can spend, So what I have looked at thus far, This car was a better car than any I have looked at. It will need a frame off restro to be what I want the car to be. Basicly it was a driver for its years and will need much to restore.

[Paul J.]

Re: Mid year values- help

Ed, the car you want is out there. Try these sites. There are also many more sites.

http://usedcorvettesforsale.com/

http://www.vintagevettesllc.com/

http://www.corvettesandmusclecars.com/

http://64.17.169.186/inventory/corvette_inventory.htm

http://www.corvetteblogger.com/

http://www.vettefinders.com/

http://www.dmcorvette.com/index.php

Craig's list
Digital Corvette
Mecum
NCRS Driveline

I'm doing a frame off on a 64 right now (which is mine). I'm never surprised, but always disappointed at what I find when I get into these projects. For some items my restoration costs are well over my estimate, which was doubled after I made it. But this is OK if the car will always appreciate. I believe that an NCRS restoration will always be worth it if the car is special in some way. The market seems to show that these cars appreciate at a faster rate (over time), and you can eventually get your money back out of it, even if you go upside down.

Paul

[Gary J.]

Re: Mid year values- help

Ed:
Did you pull the trigger and buy the 64? When you do decide on a new project, you know you can count on me for any assistance you may need, even if it's just another pair of hands. Good Luck, Gary