Brake caliper bleeding screw torn off - NCRS Discussion Boards

Brake caliper bleeding screw torn off

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  • Oliver S.
    Very Frequent User
    • November 30, 1999
    • 341

    Brake caliper bleeding screw torn off

    Hello,

    if got 2 issues with my back brake calipers. On one the bleeding screw was torn off and on one it's so tight that it can't be opened.
    I was pointed to this by my shop when I had the fluide replaced. The shop meant that bleeding only the front calipers may do it.
    Now I'm considering this point again with regard to replacing the calipers.
    What could be the worst case when leaving the back ones in place? If it's only a leaking problem in the future then maybe I could wait. But if it's a potential security risk then I will replace them. A buddy of mine mentioned that the fluid in both back lines will never be mixed with the remaining fluid absorbing moisture indefinitely regardless of a fluid change.

    Regards
    Oliver
    Last edited by Oliver S.; September 29, 2010, 04:24 AM.
  • Jim T.
    Expired
    • February 28, 1993
    • 5351

    #2
    Re: Brake caliper bleeding screw torn off

    I don't know if a machine shop with EDM could remove both brake bleeders, you could call or visit one and ask.
    I know they can remove broken bolts from engine blocks.

    Comment

    • Paul J.
      Expired
      • September 9, 2008
      • 2091

      #3
      Re: Brake caliper bleeding screw torn off

      Oliver,

      You should have the bleed screws removed and replaced. You do not have to replace the entire caliper unless it is leaking or not functioning properly. The old fluid in the lines will eventually deteriorate and can absorb moisture, which will deteriorate the rear brake lines. You also cannot get the air out of the rear brakes. As Jim suggested, a good machine shop can remove the bleed screws. A good repair shop should be able to remove the broken screws also.

      This is not somthing that has to be done today, but since you have just serviced the front part of the system, you should do it soon.

      Paul

      Comment

      • Michael B.
        Very Frequent User
        • June 18, 2007
        • 400

        #4
        Re: Brake caliper bleeding screw torn off

        I haven't tried this stuff but it sounds interesting. You are still going to need an easy out for the broken one.

        Last edited by Michael B.; September 30, 2010, 06:02 PM.

        Comment

        • Gary R.
          Extremely Frequent Poster
          • March 31, 1989
          • 1796

          #5
          Re: Brake caliper bleeding screw torn off

          A LH drill bit might catch what's left and spin it out without damage to the seat. Since the caliper will most likely be off the car, then you might want to check the condition of the bores and pistons. The SS lined ones are pretty good but I've seen bad ones,the pistons will corrode as well. If you find either just buy a another SS rebuilt caliper, it will cost less in the long run and you'll be done faster in most cases.

          Comment

          • Wayne W.
            Extremely Frequent Poster
            • April 30, 1982
            • 3605

            #6
            Re: Brake caliper bleeding screw torn off

            You don't need anything exotic. Just a drill bit that is larger than the necked down portion of the bleeder, and just smaller than the threads. Drill it until you break through to the necked portion. Pick the threaded portion out and the tip will fall out. Replace the bleeder.

            Comment

            • Domenic T.
              Expired
              • January 28, 2010
              • 2452

              #7
              Re: Brake caliper bleeding screw torn off

              When I remove these kind of things I use heat from my tourch (not propane) and instantly heat the part to be removed red hot then instantly melt candle wax on it. The wax may catch fire. Then use the method the guys say to use. I use an easy out.

              This sounds backwards because when you heat something it expands, but that is just what it does and when it contracts it comes loose.
              For years I always heated around the stuck object to expand the hole and free the part and it works for most everything but when the part is small like in your case heating around the hole will heat the small part as well. It will still work but I found heating and expanding the small part works the best.
              That is how I remove the small oil plugs that have to be removed to clean blocks.

              DOM

              Comment

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