For those of you who have done this before I am looking for advice on what front end kit to use on my 65. This winter I plan to rebuild all the front upper and lower a-arms, ball joints etc. My car is a all original 90k mile driver that still has all the original ball joints and rubber bushing etc. It is a non power steering car that drives ok but I hope it drives much tighter and when done. Is it best to stay with OE parts or go with newer tech parts? I also plan on cleaning all parts and repainting with the correct black so it looks as original as possible.
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Re: 65 front end rebuild
Craig-------
Use OE-equivalent parts; forget any newer "high tech" components like urethane bushings, etc.
You will have to obtain parts in the aftermarket, though, as very few of the parts remain available from GM. About the only things that comes to mind as still available from GM are the a-arm bushings and the sway bar retaining bracket bushings.In Appreciation of John Hinckley -
Re: 65 front end rebuild
Craig, I rebuilt my 72 front suspension(87k), with new bushings on control arms, lower ball joints were gone I used moog front end ball joints, There about as good as you'll get in todays automotive aftermarket, there is nothing like the factory parts and there quality, one bit of advice is if the other parts have no issues re-use them and just keep them greased, and keep the originality.New England chapter member, 63 Convert. 327/340- Chapter/Regional/national Top Flight, 72 coupe- chapter and regional Top Flight.Comment
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Re: 65 front end rebuild
Craig, YES to everything Joe said.
Since its only original once, please check your ball joints first and determine if they need replacement.
None of the Repo parts will be perfect however the best ones will be close enough to get almost all your points (& maybe all).
If you do keep the original ball joints do not use the typical pickle folk it usually destroys the rubber (GM part numbered)Comment
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Re: 65 front end rebuild
Ed, Thanks for the advise and that will be my plan.Comment
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Re: 65 front end rebuild
Alan,
Thanks for the note and good advice. I do not have it torn apart yet but I have owned this car for 30 years and with the ball joints being riveted on the upper a-arms I am assuming that they are originals. I have heard that you can re-rivet new ball joints back on the a-arms but I don't think it is likely that was done on this car prior to the 30 years I have owned it. It had a hard life before I bought it and is a driver, probably never be up to the standards of a car that would be judged but it is my intent to do any and all restoration work that it needs with the goal to originality vs after market. It drives nice, tracks straight at highway speeds, just turns a little hard even for manual steering so I thought this would be a good winter project, plus it will allow me to paint all the parts the correct black and clean things up a bit.Comment
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Re: 65 front end rebuild
Same thing I did one winter, good project. You must check your ball joints before taking apart. After I took mine apart felt one joint was bad however once back in car - it's good! Manual steering also.Comment
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Re: 65 front end rebuild
Craig
I just finnished my 66 bought most of the parts from L. I. corvettes. Used a long 1/2" threaded rod to remove and instal springs. A arm bushings were rotted to the supports and had to be pressed out just like a universal joint. i froze the new bushings befor pressing them in. The old wheel bearings came in handy while pressing in the new bushings. I hope your steering damper is still good because the dam things cost a fortune.Comment
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Re: 65 front end rebuild
I have never done front end work before, will it be obvious if the ball joints are bad/Comment
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Re: 65 front end rebuild
Craig-----
Unless they are REALLY bad, it won't be obvious. However, usually at your mileage the lowers will be bad and the uppers will be ok. I would routinely replace the lowers and reuse the uppers unless there is some obvious problem with them.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Re: 65 front end rebuild
My .02, stay away from the "kits". Many if not all are made up of imported parts and some have had issues with the lower ball joints wearing out. The sellers of these kits are aware of this and have been for some time.
Some offer kits with MOOG parts but be aware there is only one type of the USA ones offered, they do offer a cheaper (probably imported) part.
IMO, The best parts avail today are the USA made MOOG parts. However the cost is double that of those kits sold everywhere so make your choice. Me, I would spend the $400 and get the MOOG. You have a nice vette so do the job once and do it right. Yes you'll give up points but if you're going to drive the car then it's worth it.
I can send you a link with a lot of this info if you like, as it's old news.
I agree with Joe for a street car all I use are rubber suspension parts.Comment
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Re: 65 front end rebuild
Craig,
I agree with all above as stated. From past experience go with individual Moog components where required. Go all Moog if you do not intend to have flight judged. Save everything.
One thing you mentioned in yesterday follow up post was steering might be harder - no one mentioned checking the steering gear box. At 90k it may be tiime to change the grease or at least check adjustments. Several old threads and shop manuals detail "How To"
You and rent or borrow all the tools you need from Auto Zone or O'Reilly.
Last of all NO need for urethane components. I've used both urethane and OEM style rubber and IMO unless you intend to "track" the car no need for urethane. Your ride will be much better with OEM style rubber.
You will also need access to bearing press or large arbor press to do the "A" arm busings and at 90k you can bet all are shot.
Take some digital pictures b4 you start and you can use for reference as you put it back together.
Nice winter project !
CarlComment
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