Guys,
I'm putting the finishing touches on a Restorer story so I thought I'd do a post on the subject. If you look in the archives you'll see a thread about "It's all in the Cam" about my trials with not less then 3 replacement 67 signal switches and a new signal switch cam.
I finally found a replacement switch, that seems to last with a little modification, and which is on the car now. So I thought, I'd go back to my original and put the new cam on.
Here's the setup:
The original switch is on the right with the original cam and the usual problem with it. The new replacement cam is on the left. Object is to make a neat soldered connection of the wires. Well I got it done but not too neat:
If you can do a neat butt splice with solder, you could probably use some shrink wrap tubing. But my soldering ability is not too good so a taped the splices. Notice the insulated wire retainer at the came stud. My original has disintergrated, so I made one from PVC tape and file cardboard.
Here's the cam in place:
If you notice the screw in the picture, that is my original screw which holds the lever in place. The lockwashers are not original but they have a purpose.
The original screw is a #8 x 3/4" 32 thread self threading screw. If you have a replacement switch don't use the original screw. Use a shorter #8 X 32 screw and use it with one or two lock washers, so that the lever is nice and tight, and doesn't move fore and aft when installed. I think that the screw and lack of tightness is probably the reason that most replacements go bad within a short period of time.
If you ever want to bench test one of these switches, it can be done with an ohm meter and this schematic:
My original ohmed out just fine with the new cam. But I have to put it back on the car before I finish the story.
Just having fun,
I'm putting the finishing touches on a Restorer story so I thought I'd do a post on the subject. If you look in the archives you'll see a thread about "It's all in the Cam" about my trials with not less then 3 replacement 67 signal switches and a new signal switch cam.
I finally found a replacement switch, that seems to last with a little modification, and which is on the car now. So I thought, I'd go back to my original and put the new cam on.
Here's the setup:
The original switch is on the right with the original cam and the usual problem with it. The new replacement cam is on the left. Object is to make a neat soldered connection of the wires. Well I got it done but not too neat:
If you can do a neat butt splice with solder, you could probably use some shrink wrap tubing. But my soldering ability is not too good so a taped the splices. Notice the insulated wire retainer at the came stud. My original has disintergrated, so I made one from PVC tape and file cardboard.
Here's the cam in place:
If you notice the screw in the picture, that is my original screw which holds the lever in place. The lockwashers are not original but they have a purpose.
The original screw is a #8 x 3/4" 32 thread self threading screw. If you have a replacement switch don't use the original screw. Use a shorter #8 X 32 screw and use it with one or two lock washers, so that the lever is nice and tight, and doesn't move fore and aft when installed. I think that the screw and lack of tightness is probably the reason that most replacements go bad within a short period of time.
If you ever want to bench test one of these switches, it can be done with an ohm meter and this schematic:
My original ohmed out just fine with the new cam. But I have to put it back on the car before I finish the story.
Just having fun,
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