I am trying to remove my dash cluster for refurbishing. I have the steering column out and I am trying to remove the line that goes into the back of the oil gauge. The problrm is the little nut seems to be frozen into the gauge. It seems like a 5/16" but it is just stripping the nut. I also tried some vice grips but it is stripping it worse. I tried to remove the line that goes into the engine block but it is the same type of nut and I get no movement on that side either. ANY help would be great. I may be missing something? Thanks, Bob.
-
-
Re: 66 Oil Gauge Removal HELP!
Robert, If you have a little extras line, I would get as close as possable to the oil gauge and snip the line with a side cutter. Of course you would need to get a new nut and compression fitting. They should be available at a hardware store. Russ -
Re: 66 Oil Gauge Removal HELP!
Thanks for that Russ. I don't know if there is enough extra line but I imagine there should be. I may have to cut it because the nut is not moving at all and it's pretty stripped at this point. The compression fitting will just slip over the end of the cut line? Will it seal it under the pressure? Sorry they may seem like stupid questions but I'm unfamilar with it. Thanks, Bob.Comment
-
Re: 66 Oil Gauge Removal HELP!
Stan, The side cutter may bend the line a bit so after you get the dash out, I would cut about a 1/4 inch more off with something that won't crimp the line such as a cut-off disk on a die grinder. You may be able to just straighten the end enough by pinching it with a plier so that you can get the new comp. fitting on and slide it back onto the line about a 1/4 inch. When you re-tighten the new nut, hold pressure on the line into the gauge while tightening the nut until the comp.fitting is compressed enough to hold the line in. Hope this helps. RussComment
-
Re: 66 Oil Gauge Removal HELP!
Thanks Russ, sounds like what I have to do.Comment
-
Re: 66 Oil Gauge Removal HELP!
Robert, would try spraying the brass compression nut with CRC "Freeze Off" every five minutes for 30 minutes before I'd cut the line. CRC Freeze Off is available at O'Reilly's and other auto parts store. Gary....
NCRS Texas Chapter
https://www.ncrstexas.org/
https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=61565408483631Comment
-
Re: 66 Oil Gauge Removal HELP!
I attempted to fix my leaking gauge on my 63, first by changing the fitting into the back of the gauge. I cut the old one off using a small tubing cutter "under the dash!" These are readily available at most auto parts stores. By cutting it, you end up with a tube end that is ready to reattach right away using a new brass fitting. The only thing I did to the tube is use the pointed end of the cutter to deburr the end of the tube. The oil line kits are readily available as well and are inexpensive. There should be enough extra tube length to do this operation two or three times over the life of the car.
Stu FoxComment
-
Re: 66 Oil Gauge Removal HELP!
Thank you Stuart. I will see if I can get one of those kits. This has been very helpful. I will also try the freeze off, but the nut I think is too stripped at this point.Comment
-
Re: 66 Oil Gauge Removal HELP!
Robert -
The original copper-plated steel oil pressure lines didn't use typical compression fittings with sleeves like you find on aftermarket lines and in hardware stores. They use a GM-proprietary male/female tapered compression fitting that doesn't use a separate sleeve at both ends - at the gauge, and at the adapter fitting in the block (see photo below). Paragon has the block adapter fitting and the two tapered compression fittings as part of their oil pressure line "kit"; don't know if they'll sell the fittings separately.
When trying to loosen the gauge end, make sure and use a backup wrench on the square back of the gauge, or you can damage the bourdon tube arrangement inside the gauge.
Comment
-
Re: 66 Oil Gauge Removal HELP!
Thank you John. You have been more than helpful. As a matter of fact I am following your articles on how to remove the cluster. I did get it out, I cut the line very close to the compression nut and removed it later. I ordered a new whole set as you suggested. I also saw the diagrams about the capacitors in the assembly manuel so I think I'm good when I reinstall the cluster. It is amazing the knowlege that people like yourself have about these cars. I really appreciate your help, Bob.Comment
-
Re: 66 Oil Gauge Removal HELP!
Anytime you work on fittings always use line wrenches. It allows you to put pressure on two more flatsDick WhittingtonComment
-
Re: 66 Oil Gauge Removal HELP!
Good information John. The kit I have in my stock I purchased a long time ago. I didn't know the aftermarket/hardware kits had different fittings than the original. As I recall, they still were not too expensive and worth picking up several just for parts.
I second the motion about the wrenches you recommend, specially holding the square nut on the gauge while tightening. I believe my bourdon tube was damaged way back when, probably when my Buddy had my car when I was in SEA. I never knew how or when, but soon after I put the car back on the road in 1972, it started drippng onto my E-Brake handle - not much, just enough that you got some on your hand next time you set the brake (it never was enough to reach the floor). When I rehabbed the cluster in 1976, I attempted to seal the suspected area of the leak with epoxy. Ehhh! never worked, so I ran around for years with the gauge disconnected at the block until I picked up another gauge from a west coast junk yard. I still have it and have not installed it because because my original face and hands need to be transferred to the other gauge in order to match (equal aged).
I attempted to repair the connection again last year by using a new fitting and cutting back the tube. It seemed to hold ok until I wound up the engine a few times pushing near 80 psi. Then it leaked again, so now I just wipe off my E-Brake handle after each ride and reserve that fix for a later day.
Stu FoxComment
Comment