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Speedo/Tach cables

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  • Nick F.
    Expired
    • August 31, 2010
    • 46

    Speedo/Tach cables

    I new to the C2 world having just bought a 65 396 (NOM) 4 speed convertible. When I got the car this week, the speedometer wasn't working at all. Seller told me it broke and he has a new one (cable & housing) to replace it. Do I have to pull the entire gauge cluster out or can I sneak my hand up in behind the speedometer and removed the cable and remove it from the 4 speed? Also, my tach needle is bouncing while I drive slow. When going above 55, it steadies out. Does it need replacing too?
  • Joe L.
    Beyond Control Poster
    • January 31, 1988
    • 43196

    #2
    Re: Speedo/Tach cables

    Originally posted by Nick Francoforte (52139)
    I new to the C2 world having just bought a 65 396 (NOM) 4 speed convertible. When I got the car this week, the speedometer wasn't working at all. Seller told me it broke and he has a new one (cable & housing) to replace it. Do I have to pull the entire gauge cluster out or can I sneak my hand up in behind the speedometer and removed the cable and remove it from the 4 speed? Also, my tach needle is bouncing while I drive slow. When going above 55, it steadies out. Does it need replacing too?

    Nick------


    You need to remove the cluster to remove the speedometer instrument.

    Your tach problem might be a cable problem, but more likely it's the instrument, itself. The first thing I'd do is to remove the cable and lubricate it. You probably need to do this anyway. If the cable looks at all worn or questionable, replace it. A speedometer shop can make you up a new drive cable. If the cable lube or replacement doesn't solve the problem, you'll need to remove the tach and send it off for service. You can also now obtain new reproduction tachometers. So, the choice is yours.
    In Appreciation of John Hinckley

    Comment

    • Nick F.
      Expired
      • August 31, 2010
      • 46

      #3
      Re: Speedo/Tach cables

      Thanks Joe for the info. I did pull the cable out of its housing and it looked fine, no kinks or frays. However, the plastic piece at the end of the cable that goes into the speedo head, how long should that piece be? Hopefully, a piece didn't break off in the head. Perhaps, it was replaced at sometime before I got the car, don't know. Do the replacement cables have just squared ends or a plastic tip on one end?

      Comment

      • Joe L.
        Beyond Control Poster
        • January 31, 1988
        • 43196

        #4
        Re: Speedo/Tach cables

        Originally posted by Nick Francoforte (52139)
        Thanks Joe for the info. I did pull the cable out of its housing and it looked fine, no kinks or frays. However, the plastic piece at the end of the cable that goes into the speedo head, how long should that piece be? Hopefully, a piece didn't break off in the head. Perhaps, it was replaced at sometime before I got the car, don't know. Do the replacement cables have just squared ends or a plastic tip on one end?
        Nick-----

        I don't recall, for sure, but I think the squared tip was about 3/4" to 1" long. However, original cables did not use a plastic tip. This cable must have been replaced along the way. I don't like the plastic-tipped cables or, even, the type with the metal end that's field-crimped in place. I would strive to find one with cable end which has been mechanically "squared".
        In Appreciation of John Hinckley

        Comment

        • Nick F.
          Expired
          • August 31, 2010
          • 46

          #5
          Re: Speedo/Tach cables

          Thanks again Joe for your insight. As I continued to struggle under the dash with the speedometer, I began to realize that maybe a part of that plastic piece snapped off and is probably lodged in the head unit. Is there anyway to get that out without removing the head unit? If not, how do I go about getting the dash unit out and specifically the actual speedometer? Never ventured into this area before so all new to me.

          Comment

          • Jody B.
            Very Frequent User
            • February 28, 1991
            • 108

            #6
            Re: Speedo/Tach cables

            Straight from John Hinckley a few threads back:

            This will help for the cluster removal:

            http://www.lbfun.com/warehouse/tech_...ster%20pt1.pdf

            And this for the cluster re-install:

            http://www.lbfun.com/warehouse/tech_...ster%20pt2.pdf

            With the cluster out, it's a great time to pull the pedal support and replace the four plastic pivot bushings for the brake and clutch pedals.

            Comment

            • Nick F.
              Expired
              • August 31, 2010
              • 46

              #7
              Re: Speedo/Tach cables

              Originally posted by Jody Balch (18814)
              Straight from John Hinckley a few threads back:

              This will help for the cluster removal:

              http://www.lbfun.com/warehouse/tech_...ster%20pt1.pdf

              And this for the cluster re-install:

              http://www.lbfun.com/warehouse/tech_...ster%20pt2.pdf

              With the cluster out, it's a great time to pull the pedal support and replace the four plastic pivot bushings for the brake and clutch pedals.
              Jody, that's excellent my friend! Thanks for the great write-up site. Now it's time to tackle the problem and resolve it. Here goes nothing!!!!

              Comment

              • Nick F.
                Expired
                • August 31, 2010
                • 46

                #8
                Re: Speedo/Tach cables

                After realizing that my replaced speedometer cable had a plastic tip and broke off inside the speedo head unit, I panicked! I really did not want to pull the dash at this time so, I pulled it out far enough to work behind it upside down. With a bit of old yankee ingenuity, a home made tool with a very sharp point, I realized I could hopefully get the broken end out if I took my new tool, heated the end just enough and went after the broken piece. Low and behold, it actually worked. I got a piece of plastic that was about 1/2-5/8" long. I'm getting the new cable this weekend so will see if there was any damage to the speedo head which may have caused the pin to wrap and bind. We'll see!

                Comment

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