C2-crossmember cushions/bushings - NCRS Discussion Boards

C2-crossmember cushions/bushings

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  • Jack J.
    Expired
    • July 31, 2000
    • 640

    C2-crossmember cushions/bushings

    Other than a hydraulic press,any other suggestions on their removal? And what is the tap size for the bolt that goes through them? Thank You
  • Edward J.
    Extremely Frequent Poster
    • September 15, 2008
    • 6942

    #2
    Re: C2-crossmember cushions/bushings

    Jack, A hyd. press will make the job a piece of cake. any other way may damage the new bushings when pressing in, and the removel of the old ones will not be easy after stilling and rusting for 40+ years.

    If you have a auto parts store that may have a press, they may install for you. of a automotive machine shop.

    Tap side I BELIEVE IS 7/16-20 THREADS PER INCH
    Last edited by Edward J.; September 15, 2010, 12:42 PM.
    New England chapter member, 63 Convert. 327/340- Chapter/Regional/national Top Flight, 72 coupe- chapter and regional Top Flight.

    Comment

    • Joe L.
      Beyond Control Poster
      • February 1, 1988
      • 43221

      #3
      Re: C2-crossmember cushions/bushings

      Originally posted by Edward Johnson (49497)
      Jack, A hyd. press will make the job a piece of cake. any other way may damage the new bushings when pressing in, and the removel of the old ones will not be easy after stilling and rusting for 40+ years.

      If you have a auto parts store that may have a press, they may install for you. of a automotive machine shop.

      Tap side I BELIEVE IS 7/16-20 THREADS PER INCH
      Edward and Jack-----

      The bolts which retain the differential crossmember to the frame are 7/16-14 X 1-1/8". So, you need a 7/16-14 tap.

      Removing the old crossmember cushions can be a BIG pain. However, I'd be reluctant to let "any old" machine shop do it. They might do as much damage to the crossmember as anyone else. I'd either do it myself or engage the services of a Corvette-experienced shop to do it.
      In Appreciation of John Hinckley

      Comment

      • Wayne M.
        Expired
        • March 1, 1980
        • 6414

        #4
        Re: C2-crossmember cushions/bushings

        Originally posted by Jack Jagello (34474)
        Other than a hydraulic press,any other suggestions on their removal? And what is the tap size for the bolt that goes through them? Thank You

        Jack -- I see your profile lists a '64. Be aware that '63's, '64's and '65s up to VIN 5S116517 had mounts with only 4 retaining tabs. After that, a newly designed mount, #9743971, with 8 tabs was installed. This is detailed in TSB # 1174, dated Nov 29, 1965.

        This feature is easily seen during judging (that is, if they care to look).

        Comment

        • Wayne W.
          Extremely Frequent Poster
          • April 30, 1982
          • 3605

          #5
          Re: C2-crossmember cushions/bushings

          Air chisel under the lip, makes quick work. The rubber needs to be loose from the shaft though. A little fire can do that.

          Comment

          • John H.
            Beyond Control Poster
            • December 1, 1997
            • 16513

            #6
            Re: C2-crossmember cushions/bushings

            Originally posted by Wayne Midkiff (3437)
            Jack -- I see your profile lists a '64. Be aware that '63's, '64's and '65s up to VIN 5S116517 had mounts with only 4 retaining tabs. After that, a newly designed mount, #9743971, with 8 tabs was installed. This is detailed in TSB # 1174, dated Nov 29, 1965.
            The replacements I bought 4-5 years ago when my original failed have four tabs.
            Attached Files

            Comment

            • Jack J.
              Expired
              • July 31, 2000
              • 640

              #7
              Re: C2-crossmember cushions/bushings

              A follow up to my Sept.15th posting on their removal: First,thanks to both Wayne Womble and Joe Lucia who pointed me in the right direction and I chose to do it myself. Rather than incur the wrath of my local EPA (neighbors),by burning the rubber out, I clamped the crossmember in a vise and used a box cutter(razor blade) to cut away the rubber from both sides, removed the center and easily hand chiseled the outer shell from the crossmembers inner pocket. Both pocket ID's still contain remnants of metal, rust-welded to their insides which will have to be removed without damaging the crossmember. I now need to purchase the correct 4 tab replacements. Any suggestions? As a footnote, I know a 2" DEEP-3" holesaw would be the perfect tool for this project.

              Comment

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