64 327/300HP starting problem

[Ernest C.]

I really need some advice. With the key on I have 12 volts going to the coil with points open. When the points close it drops down to 5 volts. I have no secondary spark to fire the plugs. The ballast resister is extremely hot. All of this just happened as the car was running two days ago. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you
Ernie Cope

[Mark S.]

Re: 64 327/300HP starting problem

Here are the basics.
Key to start position fully 12 volts at distributor.
Key to run postion drops to 6-8 volts at distributor.
Ohm out your ballast resistor, probably shorted (0 ohms resistance)
Regards Mark

[Duke W.]

Re: 64 327/300HP starting problem

There's really no way a ballast can fail short, but they can fail open.

Full voltage will appear anywhere in a circuit with multiple resistors until you complete the circuit with a ground and current flows, so your voltage readings appears to be in the normal range.

The ballast can get very hot, especially if the ignition is on and the points are closed and the engine is not running. When the engine is running the current is intermittent so average current is lower and less wattage is dissipated by the ballast.

Check the secondary coil resistance - center terminal to coil case. The spec is in your shop manual.

Duke

[John D.]

Re: 64 327/300HP starting problem

Ernest, Lately I have heard about a lot of coil problems. Reminds me of my old Model A Ford days.
If you are using nice NOS Delco Remy condenser then pitch it and go to NAPA and buy a new one. I assume you are running an original 087? My 63 FI car has an original 091.
NOS 087 appear quite often on ebay and are rather reasonable.
I hope your have your distributor shield/cover off too. Good luck, JD

[Wayne P.]

Re: 64 327/300HP starting problem

John quick question, Why do you mention the distributor shield off.

[Gary J.]

Re: 64 327/300HP starting problem

Wayne, I guess you have been fortunate enough to never pinch the coil wire when installing the ignition shield. It will take off the insulation on the wire and cause arcing between the wire and the shield. Gee, I wonder how I know that. LOL

[Stuart F.]

Re: 64 327/300HP starting problem

Never heard of such a problem with the shielding, and I've been taking mine on and off for 47 years. Is that something more likely to show up on L-84's? I do know that even with straight connectors and short (std.) cap it is a "squash", but isn't that what the insulator inside the cover is for? I put silicon sealer over the rivets many years ago just to be safe and I have my wires installed with extra separators to minimize chances for cross fire between them, etc. To me, it is worth a little extra effort to make things right so it will work like originally intended, i.e. "redline capable" and no interference with my sounds (radio).

p.s. I cheat with an electronic ignition conversion too which uses a full 12 volt input. The ballast resistor is just there for looks. I jumper it.

Stu Fox

[Wayne P.]

Re: 64 327/300HP starting problem

A product called spiral wrap would work if wound around the wires.
I prefer the look of the shield. I also installed brackerless points. ( Point replacement )I kept the ballast resistor. Ernest I hope you resolved your problem.

[Ernest C.]

Re: 64 327/300HP starting problem

Thanks for the suggestions. I'm not sure what worked, but it seems everything is working as it should. I did replace the resistor, and the coil, and I am running again.
Thanks again
Ernie