C1 (1960) dual quad rebuild

[Donald H.]

My engine is supposed to be 270 HP, i.e. pad is stamped a CU and I have pretty much verified that the pad is correct and original via another thread on this forum. I will be tearing the engine down in the next couple of months, so I can verify internals, i.e. solid versus hydraulic lifters and cam.

However, it has a set of 245 HP carbs (see photos). Given the very high cost and problems with even finding a correct 270 HP set, I will probably stick with the set I have.

I do want to rebuild them, and I know of the expert rebuilders like Bob Kunz do excellent work. But I am inclined to buy kits and do this myself. The last time I did anything like this was about 40 years ago when I rebuild the carburetor on my 1964 Impala SS.

Am I asking for trouble or is this something I can do?

[Jim D.]

Re: C1 (1960) dual quad rebuild

Go for it. WCFB's are one of the simplest carbs. out there and are very easy to rebuild.

[Donald H.]

Re: C1 (1960) dual quad rebuild

Can anyone recommend a good source for carb kits for this dual quad setup?

Thanks,

Don Harris

[Jack H.]

Re: C1 (1960) dual quad rebuild

The difference between the 245 HP and 270 HP dual 4-Bbl carbs is gossamer. The base, body and air horn castings are the same. What distinguishes them are the ID tags and a few internal + external component differences (rods/jets, secondary counter weight, Etc.).

So, if you're going to overhaul the carbs, why not take the opportunity to do the job right and wind up with a pair factory correct for your 270 HP engine configuration? Those who do restoration professionally should have little/no trouble making the 245 -> 270 configuration change(s) while they're doing the restoration.

Yes, you can go get rebuild kits and do the job yourself, but you won't wind up with a factory fresh dichromate finish + you might miss areas that need more attention than simply 'slapping in' overall kit parts. Things like, milling mating surfaces to eliminate warp, Etc.

[Jim D.]

Re: C1 (1960) dual quad rebuild

Can anyone recommend a good source for carb kits for this dual quad setup?

Thanks,

Don Harris

Go to your local parts store and get 2 Borg Warner #10039B kits. They are about $35 each OR you could send yours out for a rebuild like Jack suggested for $400-$500 for EACH carb.

[Donald H.]

IDing 245/270 carb

I really hate to ask dumb questions, but that's one way to learn

I know that something is supposed to be cut at 45% for the 270HP carbs versus straight cut for the 245HP. I believe it is the two brass tubes as identified with the blue circle in the attached. The appear to have a flush cut. The other brass tube in the rear (red) circle has a 45% cut.

Hoping it is a 270HP carb, but is it actually 245HP carb?

The tags are stamped for 245HP, but they are brass and look to be reproductions as there is not date stamps or anything else.

[Jim D.]

Re: IDing 245/270 carb

The only dumb question is the one that isn't asked. Those are 245 HP carbs. What you are referring to being cut at an angle or straight is the primary main nozzle tubes. They are located in the "barrels" above and below your blue circle. You can just see the ends of them in your picture. They are cut at an angle (to the tube itself). If it was a 270 HP carb. it would be cut perpendicular to the tube.

The secondary nozzle tubes are cut at an angle for both 245 & 270HP carbs

[Donald H.]

Removing the Intake Manifold

Hopefully one last questions for now. I have taken out all the intake manifold bolts including the back wire loom and removed the distributor, so I think I have them all out.

My question is, how do I get the manifold to break loose from the heads? So far, I have only used hand force by trying to rock the carbs and break it loose, but this isn't working. I don't want to do much prying and break it!

Thanks very much,

Don

[Clem Z.]

Re: Removing the Intake Manifold

Hopefully one last questions for now. I have taken out all the intake manifold bolts including the back wire loom and removed the distributor, so I think I have them all out.

My question is, how do I get the manifold to break loose from the heads? So far, I have only used hand force by trying to rock the carbs and break it loose, but this isn't working. I don't want to do much prying and break it!

Thanks very much,

Don

is there a bolt under the coil ??? with the carbs off use a broom handle in the holes to rock the manifold back and forth

[Donald H.]

Re: C1 (1960) dual quad rebuild

Thanks Clem,

Yes, there was a bolt under the coil which I had already removed. I use the broom handle next.

Don

[Clem Z.]

Re: C1 (1960) dual quad rebuild

Thanks Clem,

Yes, there was a bolt under the coil which I had already removed. I use the broom handle next.

Don

you can also use a hammer handle

[Dennis C.]

Re: C1 (1960) dual quad rebuild

Donald,

Here are photos of 270 HP carbs. The photo on the left is the front carb and the photo on the right is the rear carb.

Regards,

Dennis

[Clem Z.]

Re: C1 (1960) dual quad rebuild

Thanks Clem,

Yes, there was a bolt under the coil which I had already removed. I use the broom handle next.

Don

i have had several manifolds welded where the person tried to pry off the manifold without removing that bolt. a crowbar can do a lot of damage