C-2 body dolly height, what is best

[Tom K.]

I am ready to start building a Nolan Adams type dolly for my 67 vert. I was curious what height others thought was the best for the whole cleaning, repairing, and painting process. I am using 5" casters but wasn't sure about the 14" or the 32" heights. I plan to do all of my own work from begining to the end including paint. I searched for other comments, but found nothing on a preference on height. Thanks in advance for any ideas based on your expriences.
Tom

[Ricky M.]

Re: C-2 body dolly height, what is best

I built the same dolly about 6 years ago. The only thing I did different was larger wheels(I don't remember the size but I think it was larger than what the cart diagrams said). Also the wheels made out of the softer material seem to roll around and over a screw, nut, etc on the floor. Make sure they all swivel. Also I did all assembly with sheet rock screws. They won't work loose. I went with the taller height, It gives you room to go under or over(with a stool maybe, depending on your height). With the lower one a lot of work might have to be done laying down. With the taller one you can kinda stoop to do some things.
I also remember, while building mine, hitting my finger with the hammer harder than I ever have before in my 51 years. needless to say, grown men DO cry!

[Tom K.]

Re: C-2 body dolly height, what is best

Ricky, Thanks for your input. We must be thinking along the same lines about bringing the work to a good height for our age. It is not as easy to lay on my back to do this kind of work as it was 20 or more years ago. I also plan to use a lot of sheet rock screws and don't plan to use any nails, thereby avoiding the hammer to fingers incidents. I hope to get the dolly together this week and then its time to start the disassembly process of the car.

[Brooks G.]

Re: C-2 body dolly height, what is best

Tom, I built a dolly like you are talking about building just over a year ago. I hate to say it but in my opinion the Noland Adams plans will probably end up causing you lots of problems. I built one to put a C-1 body on and it did not fit the body. I had to do a lot of modifications. Noland's body dolly plans have no provisions for the rear of the body. It uses a strap or cable to keep the rear of the body from falling or breaking off the rest of the body. I think you would be a whole lot better off if you build a dolly that will support the rear of the body at the body mount points. This will be especially useful to help keep your door gaps where they need to be. I also think that it would be useful if you used casters that will lock in place and not roll. Noland's plans will enable you to be able to get under the body but I looked at a dolly made of steel a while back that allowed you (one person) to put the body on its side which might be better than laying on your back. My C-1 body (1956) is still on the dolly but hopefully soon will be back on its chassis. I still cuss that dolly every time I see it. I wish you all the best with your restoration. Brooks Glover (2141)

[Wayne P.]

Re: C-2 body dolly height, what is best

Tom. If you have a 4 post lift I found it easier to build a dolly out of 2x6 and leave it on the 4 post . No problem lifting it up to proper height to work on it. Good luck. Ps be carefull when removing body from frame for clearances. Lots of good info from our fellow NCRS friends.

[Steve L.]

Re: C-2 body dolly height, what is best

Don't use the Noland one. I did and it caused me grief. The bird cage channels don't sit right. The front and back ends hang out with no support. Also, if you need to do any channel work, there is no place to support the body.

Once I figured out what the problems were, I had to make adapter pieces to properly support the channels and more adapter pieces to raise the body by the battery/jack boxes so I could work on the channels.

I also made the dolly much higher. so I could crawl underneath to get at all the bracketry. I was lucky that I made it just tall enough so I could squeeze between the 2 x4's . But not tall enough that I couldn't use an engine hoist to transfer the body from the frame to the dolly.

If I did it again, I would make it so that it would pick up on all the body mounts(assuming they haven't rusted away) and the rad support. I would also add provisions that would allow me to use 5 scissor jacks under the battery/jack boxes, the front foot wells and rad support so I could raise the body more to get at the channels.

I also had to redo the caster wheel support. The Noland frame does not have anywhere near enough support. If the wheels are castered at the wrong locations, the wheels will collapse right off the frame in a few days.
The wheels should be mounted to a flat 2x6 running full width under the dolly. Also, use steel wheels, not rubber inflated wheels.

The Noland dolly should be stricken from the face of the earth.

[Bill M.]

Re: C-2 body dolly height, what is best

Tom

I used Nolans i made it higher than the specs. I used a larger wheel and i made it 2 piece so i could put it in the back of pickup. The body has been on it for a year and will be going back on chasis soon. I did not do any bodywork on the dolly. to bad you live so far away you could have had it as i have noplace to store it and am not sure if i will be taking a body off in the near future.

Bill

[Ricky M.]

Re: C-2 body dolly height, what is best

These are great replies about the potential problems with this dolly and I agree with some.
Working on chanels is an issue but with just a little rearranging you can lift body up on thaty side do what you need to.
Steel wheels will cause a nightmare if you roll on anything but smooth concrete. I used hard rubber wheels and am able to push mine outside in the grass and all around anywhere(with assistance)
My dolly fit my C2 perfectly
The bulid plans addresses support for the rear section However I used none and have had absolutely no sag anywhere All measurements still same as when installed. Maybe I've just been lucky
When I built mine I was new to the C2 world and did not know all the particulars that would make a better dolly and needed an economical dolly I could build myself.

With the years Noland has with Corvettes he would not recommend something that was a total peice of junk. As with everything there is always a "better mousetrap" but I've been more than happy with my build.
Just all depends on what you want, I guess.
I've seen some really nice steel/aluminum creations on websites but given their cost I still would choose mine
FWIW

[Paul J.]

Re: C-2 body dolly height, what is best

Tom,

I spent a lot of time thinking about a dolly design, and I studied Noland's closely. His design has some unecessary parts and some weaknesses. It's still a good design, but as Ricky said, there's always a better mousetrap. My dolly is as short (low) as I could make it, so I can easily work inside the interior and engine compartment. When I need to raise it, I put it on blocks and jack stands.

There is a ton of information, including many, many pictures in the archives. You must have missed it, search for "body dolly". Here's just one of many threads.

https://www.forums.ncrs.org/showthre...dolly&uid=8486

Paul

[Tom K.]

Re: C-2 body dolly height, what is best

Thanks to all that offered advice and their personal experience, both on the forum and via some private messages. I found out that a member of our chapter had just put the body back on his 66 and he had his dolly for sale. I bought it and it is a 2x6 rectangle on casters with legs going up to unistrut about 24" tall. It is very versital with the unistrut and can be adjusted to fit any body. It is long enough to provide support from the core support to the rear body mounts. He has used it on a 60 and a 66. It is very open in design to be able to get around under the body for cleaning and repairs. It can also be raised if needed on blocks or jackstands. I think it fits most of what everyone said was helpful. Now I start trying to get rusty bolts loose and then the dis-assembly can begin. With a lot of luck maybe it will be on the road again in 3 or 4 years. I'm sure as work progresses I will have a lot more to learn from fellow members .