1967 power brakes

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 power brakes

Repeating previous post. it won't save my edits!

Jerry, What engine? C60 or not?

Likely if only one other small nipple fitting, the hose to VAC. Could be through a pipe to another hose to VAC(as on BB). edit ... see UPC 6 C2 for base. Shows a VAC hose to pipe to carb. L79 I'm not sure the UPC sheet shows nothing, but it must goeto VAC somehow.

If 2 fittings, other would go to the AC system(iirc, heater valve)

[Gerald C.]

Re: 1967 power brakes

Rich,

My engine is an L79. After a bit more research on this, it looks like the fitting on the intake manifold has just one fitting for the PB booster vacuum hose. I think I'm correct here!

Jerry

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 power brakes

Jerry how is the VAC connected?

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 power brakes

Jerry how is the VAC connected?

I found this photo of a '66 L79, which came to me this way(misc configurations atypical). Is your VAC hose connected directly to the lower front carb nipple? Or is there a pipe between them? I think it should be a pipe.

Rich
P8020071.jpgP8310031.jpg

[Gerald C.]

Re: 1967 power brakes

Another question....I see in the LICC catalogue that the front brake line block is the same on the standard and PB cars. Is that correct for the 67?

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 power brakes

Jerry, Answer my ?'s in the last 2 posts I asked you about so I don't get 3 strikes, and I'll answer your last ?

lol

Rich
PS.... Yes

[Gerald C.]

Re: 1967 power brakes

Sorry for not getting back to you on this. My vacuum advance tube is connected to the front right of the carb.

[Gerald C.]

Re: 1967 power brakes

Thanks Rich. My current M/C was a replacement, so I had to buy a correct one to make this work!

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 power brakes

Ok, Thanks.

So carb port must be manifold vacuum, I guess?

You'll have to run the new longer brake line from that left rear brass brake junction block to the MC port. It may take some finagleing(sp? lol). You need the car on a lift to wiggle it into position through the chassis center crossmember, bend a bit then straighten. That front clamp bolt is tricky to get out and in, but if you cut the bolt shorter you can squeeze it in there to reinstall, see earlier photos in this thread. Note the thin wrench helps too.

And don't forget that little clamp to hold th F & R lines on them as they come up vertically to the MC.

One other thing I just thought of too....

Make sure your MC to Bosster rod isn't too long. If it is, and upon assembly, pushes MC piston, it could cause brakes to hang up. You want it so it's close, not touching the MC piston. You could grind the rod a bit, or add a gasket or two between MC & Booster. You could cut their perimeter edges to hide them for judging.... Ooops, did I let the cat outa' the bag?

Rich