Control valve questions

[Keith L.]

I am putting a rebuilt CV on my 72. The directions say 45 ft lbs on the pitman arm nut. I started running it down with a wrench and it got to the bottom and the stud started turning. The nut is almost below the hole the carter pin goes in. I tryed sticking an alan wrench in the hole to hold it, but it broke. If I push up on the valve there is about 1/16th play in it. How can I tighten it and should the stud turn?

Also my old valve is 5635459. Could it be the original? Below that number it looks like O22. The O could be a clock symbol or a screw head symbol. On the end cover is an S.

[Timothy B.]

Re: Control valve questions

Keith,

Call the people you purchased the valve from and ask the question. IMO, after starting the engine and pressure gets against the ball stud it may hold in place. You should not be below the hole for the cotter pin, if the interference is grabing the stud and turning it you may just need pressure to hold the stud.

[Keith L.]

Re: Control valve questions

After looking at the old valve and checking the new one I believe the nut ran out of threads. I thought the new valve was under size so I measured both as best I could at the the begining and end of the taper. They are close to the same size. I put a washer under the nut and it tightened up to the point that the 1/16 play is now gone. And the hole for the cotter key is in the correct place for the castle nut. It still turns now that it is gettiing tight.

Any reason not to use a washer under the nut?