I am continuing to work on my 68 BB to get it ready for the street. have attacked the intake and fuel system and making good progess. now thinking ahead I am wondering what method (product) is the best way to go with respect to battery disconnect switches >>> with the battery being behind the seat i am looking for a unit that will fit on the battery terminal and can very quickly be turned off or on. some units I have looked at are anything but built well, I have been thinking of doing an interior remote mounted switch. I thought I had seen a true remote (like keyless remote) disconnect switch but have never been able to find it again now that I am ready for one .. any suggestions
battery disconnect switches
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Re: battery disconnect switches
There's a knife switch version of the 'green knob' cut-off switch we see so often. It comes in both top post and side post versions.
I've got one on my '71, but that's a rear mounted side-post battery system. I DO have to raise the battery storage compartment cover to gain access to the switch and you're probably NOT going to do that safely while on the road, driving alone, at highway speed...
But, it's a $20 item vs. the $10 for the green knob unit. It DOES do its job & gives some tactile feedback in terms of switch properly open/closed.
I'm not sure where you're going to mount another form of cut-off switch in the cabin interior... Remember, the switch HAS to be sized to handle the FULL load of the battery, so you're talking about 'splicing' into one of the main battery cables!!!
Well, let's see the Positive cable DOES run to the engine compartment via the transmission tunnel... Yep, you could HACK a hole in the tranny tunnel fiberglass and SLAP a hefty in-line switch on the passenger side of the tunnel I guess. But, that's probably NOT in keeping with the NCRS judging requirement for a:
"Small in-line battery cut-off switch requiring no modification of existing components"Last edited by Jack H.; July 8, 2010, 08:12 PM.- Top
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Re: battery disconnect switches
There's a knife switch version of the 'green knob' cut-off switch we see so often. It comes in both top post and side post versions.
I've got one on my '71, but that's a rear mounted side-post battery system. I DO have to raise the battery storage compartment cover to gain access to the switch and you're probably NOT going to do that safely while on the road, driving alone, at highway speed...
But, it's a $20 item vs. the $10 for the green knob unit. It DOES do its job & gives some tactile feedback in terms of switch properly open/closed.
I'm not sure where you're going to mount another form of cut-off switch in the cabin interior... Remember, the switch HAS to be sized to handle the FULL load of the battery, so you're talking about 'splicing' into one of the main battery cables!!!
Well, let's see the Positive cable DOES run to the engine compartment via the transmission tunnel... Yep, you could HACK a hole in the tranny tunnel fiberglass and SLAP a hefty in-line switch on the passenger side of the tunnel I guess. But, that's probably NOT in keeping with the NCRS judging requirement for a:
"Small in-line battery cut-off switch requiring no modification of existing components"
Like Jack my battery terminals are to the rear of the car. The forward mounted terminals of the 1968 and 1969 Corvettes pose a clearance issue for any battery disconnect, particularly the knife blade type.
I have seen "key" operated shut off switches (I believe some race sanctioning bodies require them) on sites like Jegs and Summit. Perhaps you saw the switch that is in your memory on one of those sites. I can't imagine how one of those switches could be installed in a subtle fashion, but perhaps I haven't thought about it enough.Terry- Top
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Re: battery disconnect switches
Easy enough to install one of the removable key switches in the transmission tunnel (I like the Hella unit), but it probably runs afoul of NCRS since it requires one hole for the body of the switch and two smaller holes for the mounting screws. Please note that you need not "hack" these holes or "slap" the switch in place; pre-planning and craftsmanship are still suggested. Your car, your choice.- Top
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Re: battery disconnect switches
Are you looking to kill all power to the car, not have a hot cable from the battery to the starter, or both? There are remote constant-duty solenoid kits available, both electrical and mechanical available. Some will handle cranking amperage and some will handle running amps only.
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Re: battery disconnect switches
I am looking to kill all the power at once. I have used the green "knob" style in a 67 (when I have one some 15 years ago) but since i now have the 68 and of course the battery locations are different. that is why i was looking for a "remote" system.
thanks for all the help .. any idea where I can get the remote ?- Top
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Re: battery disconnect switches
I have a large handle operated switch (3" dia x 2" deep)that I used to use as a ground disconnect on my 63. It has 2 contact lugs, one of which I bolted to a small bracket which in turn bolted to my bell housing where the ground cable was connected. The ground cable was then connected to the other lug. It was accessible by kneeling or laying on the ground beside the car on the passenger side. I added a boot or deflector made from an old radiator hose to it for a little road debri protection. It is quite heavy duty so I'm sure it could be used on a positive terminal as well.
I believe I got this many years ago from J.C. Whitney, but I'm sure there are many sources for something similar. The problem is HOW and WHERE to use it, as I described above. When I got older, I deceided it was a little too unhandy and changed to a knife switch on the battery.
Stu Fox- Top
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