Now I can't remove the rear bearing support...

[Patrick H.]

Following these instructions:

http://www.vansteel.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=content.home&pageID=11

I've gone through the whole process exactly as described. The rotors were already drilled out so that was not a problem. I've applied "pressure" with a swinging 2 pound hammer and the bearing support will not come out at all. Should I use a larger instrument? Or is there another trick?

Any tips you can provide would be helpful. It looks like I will not have these out to bring to Bloomington and drop off for repair.

FYI I'm waiting to remove the rear spring bolts until later, to follow up on a previous thread.

Patrick

[Joe L.]

Re: Now I can't remove the rear bearing support...

Following these instructions:

http://www.vansteel.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=content.home&pageID=11

I've gone through the whole process exactly as described. The rotors were already drilled out so that was not a problem. I've applied "pressure" with a swinging 2 pound hammer and the bearing support will not come out at all. Should I use a larger instrument? Or is there another trick?

Any tips you can provide would be helpful. It looks like I will not have these out to bring to Bloomington and drop off for repair.

FYI I'm waiting to remove the rear spring bolts until later, to follow up on a previous thread.

Patrick

Patrick------



I assume the problem is separating the spindle support assembly from the trailing arm? With the 4 nuts removed from the trailing arm studs, generally, this is not too difficult. If it is in this case, then I expect there must be significant corrosion impeding it. In that case I think I'd install a "spindle knocker" on the spindle and drive the whole assembly out using whatever force is necessary (I realize that the spindle knocker is usually used to remove the spindle, but in this case you could also use it to safely apply impactive force to the whole assembly and drive it off the studs).

[Patrick H.]

Re: Now I can't remove the rear bearing support...

Patrick------



I assume the problem is separating the spindle support assembly from the trailing arm? With the 4 nuts removed from the trailing arm studs, generally, this is not too difficult. If it is in this case, then I expect there must be significant corrosion impeding it. In that case I think I'd install a "spindle knocker" on the spindle and drive the whole assembly out using whatever force is necessary (I realize that the spindle knocker is usually used to remove the spindle, but in this case you could also use it to safely apply impactive force to the whole assembly and drive it off the studs).

Yes, I can't remove the support from the trailing arm. I'll have to see if I can find a spindle knocker now.

Patrick

[Carl B.]

Re: Now I can't remove the rear bearing support...

If spindle won't budge It would be better to remove the trailing arm and have it pressed out . I bent the caliper mounted bracket by putting to much on it

[Donald O.]

Re: Now I can't remove the rear bearing support...

Pat,
I too had a heck of a time trying to remove the axels from the spindle while on the car. I removed the axles with the TAs and then was able to remove the u-joint flange from the spindle. I even broke a 6 point socket (1/2" drive SnapOn) trying to do this on vehicle. Off the vehicle, I just mounted the TA in a lage vise, by the wheel lug studs, and put the 4' ratchet on them and when loosened, switched over to the 1/2" drive ratchet.

DonO

[Steven G.]

Re: Now I can't remove the rear bearing support...

Patrick, be sure to spray with wd-40, 556 or some type of oil between the hammering required, also a block of wood keeps things from getting ugly, they will seperate eventually. Steve

[Patrick H.]

Re: Now I can't remove the rear bearing support...

If spindle won't budge It would be better to remove the trailing arm and have it pressed out . I bent the caliper mounted bracket by putting to much on it

I don't have a torch, and I'll bet anyone $100 that is what it would take to remove the trailing arm bolts. I would much, much rather remove the spindle supports fron the TA if humanly possible.

Patrick

[Patrick H.]

Re: Now I can't remove the rear bearing support...

Patrick, be sure to spray with wd-40, 556 or some type of oil between the hammering required, also a block of wood keeps things from getting ugly, they will seperate eventually. Steve

Thanks Steve.
I think that this is what will be required.

Patrick

[Joe L.]

Re: Now I can't remove the rear bearing support...

I don't have a torch, and I'll bet anyone $100 that is what it would take to remove the trailing arm bolts. I would much, much rather remove the spindle supports fron the TA if humanly possible.

Patrick

Patrick------


You folks working on cars that have lived their life in "eastern" climes certainly have a lot more problems working on chassis components than we folks out west. Corrosion is a "killer" and most chassis components on Corvettes were never designed to much resist it. If I were driving a Corvette in the east (even if I only drove in the summer because salt remains present on the roads), I'd convert everything possible to stainless steel. Heck, I do that myself and my car rarely gets out of California (yes, yes, I know that it could not possibly have gotten out of California for the last 10 years, or so).

[Donald O.]

Re: Now I can't remove the rear bearing support...

I don't have a torch, and I'll bet anyone $100 that is what it would take to remove the trailing arm bolts. I would much, much rather remove the spindle supports fron the TA if humanly possible.

Patrick

Patrick,
I used a Sawzall. The outer side of the pass TA took the better part of an afternoon. Then I learned how to do it. The other cutting points took about 30 minutes each. Used a new blade and cutting oil for each location. I'll have next weekend off, not this weekend, and could help you then.
DonO

[Gary R.]

Re: Now I can't remove the rear bearing support...

Having worked on a lot of these I would recommend that you do remove the arms. The spindle knocker will drive out the spindle but probably not the support from the arm. I have a piece of aluminum I machined up to separate them but a piece of hard wood would work. Chances are the bushings are dry rotted in the arm as well.
I was never a fan of the on the car procedure for setting up rear bearings. Just swapping out spindles assemblies is ok as long as they're setup correct.
My choice would be remove the arms and rebuild what you have.
Good luck.

[Patrick H.]

Re: Now I can't remove the rear bearing support...

Patrick,
I used a Sawzall. The outer side of the pass TA took the better part of an afternoon. Then I learned how to do it. The other cutting points took about 30 minutes each. Used a new blade and cutting oil for each location. I'll have next weekend off, not this weekend, and could help you then.
DonO

Next weekend is much better than this weekend. After I get back from BG on Friday late evening I'm busy Saturday.

Let's see how it goes.

[Patrick H.]

Re: Now I can't remove the rear bearing support...

Having worked on a lot of these I would recommend that you do remove the arms. The spindle knocker will drive out the spindle but probably not the support from the arm. I have a piece of aluminum I machined up to separate them but a piece of hard wood would work. Chances are the bushings are dry rotted in the arm as well.
I was never a fan of the on the car procedure for setting up rear bearings. Just swapping out spindles assemblies is ok as long as they're setup correct.
My choice would be remove the arms and rebuild what you have.
Good luck.

Noted.

As stated above, I've gone through many Sawzall blades attempting to remove a trailing arm and put that under the "never again" category. That's why I thought I would try and remove the spindle support alone and have that rebuilt.

Patrick

[Donald O.]

Re: Now I can't remove the rear bearing support...

Next weekend is much better than this weekend. After I get back from BG on Friday late evening I'm busy Saturday.

Let's see how it goes.

just let me know what tools I might have that you don't and I can bring those. My dremel is broken though. But I do have a disc cutter, 24" long breaker, portable compressor, Sawzall (will need some fresh blades), 32oz brass and 64oz brass hammers (for the lower shock/strut rod), etc.
Will also need 1 2x4 3' long and a 4x4x4 block, extra jack stand for rear of the TA.

Start squirting it with some Kroil, now. Unbelievable how well it works

You could video this for your chapter, but blackmailing me is verbotten

dono


Damn being a nice guy, oh well there goes my reputation

[Michael G.]

Re: Now I can't remove the rear bearing support...

Patrick, I think the real trick to what you are attempting is to somehow secure the trailing arm so that it can't flex and absorb the impact of the knocking. If you can swing it down to the floor and place a pair of 2x4s cut to provide a block between the arm and an ajoining fixed structure (brick wall or concrete foundation footing) you may be able to shock it free. Good luck