Rear spring end bolt removal - any tricks?

[Patrick H.]

Re: Rear spring end bolt removal - any tricks?

Patrick:
Put the car on the ground, jack it up and remove the wheel as others have suggested. Put a c-clamp inboard from where you plan to place a floor jack so that the jack absolutely cannot slip off the curved spring. Go to the hardware store and get a small Bernzomatic (sp.) combination oxygen-mapp gas (actually regular propane/oxygen will work fine but mapp is hotter.). This lights up just like a large oxy-acetylene torch with the blue pointed flame. I use this all the time and it will heat the nut cherry red in a just a short time. There is no way the nut won't come off with this. I have taken apart things that looked like they were raised from the Titanic with this. Good luck.
Jeff

Mot the MAPP gas, used the clamp et al previously (removed springs a few times), but never used MAPP on this one yet. I guess I will be soon enough.

[Harmon C.]

Re: Rear spring end bolt removal - any tricks?

You need more tools!! A small jack like a Corvette jack will lift the spring. A metabo 5" cut off wheel will cut the nut and save the bolt or cut the bolt in seconds. They cost $200. but save hours and have a clutch to keep from breaking wheels.

[Patrick H.]

Re: Rear spring end bolt removal - any tricks?

You need more tools!!

Can you ever have enough tools, Lyle?



I don't believe I own a small floor jack; they don't lift high so I never purchased one. I suspect I'll be using my regular one when I move the car off the lift - but I have to first loosen the U-bolts holding the halfshafts so I can get them out too.

Patrick

[Donald O.]

Re: Rear spring end bolt removal - any tricks?

Can you ever have enough tools, Lyle?



I don't believe I own a small floor jack; they don't lift high so I never purchased one. I suspect I'll be using my regular one when I move the car off the lift - but I have to first loosen the U-bolts holding the halfshafts so I can get them out too.

Patrick

Pat,
When I did my 67 over the winter, I was able to get the u-bolts holding the half shafts off very easily.....getting the u-bolt off was something else. I ended up using a Dremel with a small cut off wheel to get the bottom of the U off and then took the TAs off with the axles. Then I took the axles off. Use a cut-off wheel on the bolt or the nut. Save yourself some "explitive deleted" phrases you son might learn

Don

[Patrick H.]

Re: Rear spring end bolt removal - any tricks?

Pat,
When I did my 67 over the winter, I was able to get the u-bolts holding the half shafts off very easily.....getting the u-bolt off was something else. I ended up using a Dremel with a small cut off wheel to get the bottom of the U off and then took the TAs off with the axles. Then I took the axles off. Use a cut-off wheel on the bolt or the nut. Save yourself some "explitive deleted" phrases you son might learn

Don

It may be more cost effective for the car's owner if I actually do just cut them off (the u-bolts) and replace them. I told Ryan that these were expensive u-bolts even at my discount labor rate. Thanks for that tip.

Patrick

OK - $6.30 for the friggen u-bolt kit.
I'm cutting them off.

[Joe L.]

Re: Rear spring end bolt removal - any tricks?

It may be more cost effective for the car's owner if I actually do just cut them off (the u-bolts) and replace them. I told Ryan that these were expensive u-bolts even at my discount labor rate. Thanks for that tip.

Patrick

OK - $6.30 for the friggen u-bolt kit.
I'm cutting them off.

Patrick------


$9.04 EACH, GM list price. GM #2066840, the original part number.

I would replace the u-bolts even if I didn't have to destroy them getting them out. I can virtually guarantee you'll be replacing the u-joints, assuming you don't want to re-install a scrap u-joint.

[Patrick H.]

Re: Rear spring end bolt removal - any tricks?

Patrick------


$9.04 EACH, GM list price. GM #2066840, the original part number.

I would replace the u-bolts even if I didn't have to destroy them getting them out. I can virtually guarantee you'll be replacing the u-joints, assuming you don't want to re-install a scrap u-joint.

Joe,

That's the whole reason I'm working on these u-bolts - while I have the rear bearings done I'm going to have the u-joints replaced.

I quoted the Paragon price for a 2-bolt kit. I'll need 2 kits - still cheap.

Patrick

[Bill M.]

Re: Rear spring end bolt removal - any tricks?

Patrick:
Put the car on the ground, jack it up and remove the wheel as others have suggested. Put a c-clamp inboard from where you plan to place a floor jack so that the jack absolutely cannot slip off the curved spring. Go to the hardware store and get a small Bernzomatic (sp.) combination oxygen-mapp gas (actually regular propane/oxygen will work fine but mapp is hotter.). This lights up just like a large oxy-acetylene torch with the blue pointed flame. I use this all the time and it will heat the nut cherry red in a just a short time. There is no way the nut won't come off with this. I have taken apart things that looked like they were raised from the Titanic with this. Good luck.
Jeff

Hey Jeff and Patrick:

I have tried propane and found MAPP is mandatory.

I had the worst time with the trailing arm bolt through the frame. It was rusted to the inner sleeve of the trailing arm bushing. It took forever to get that sucker loose.

edit: I should have started off by saying I agree with Jeff's procedure...worked for me.

Bill

[Brian M.]

Re: Rear spring end bolt removal - any tricks?

Have you checked with "Rusty Eddie" for some tips?

[Patrick H.]

Re: Rear spring end bolt removal - any tricks?

Have you checked with "Rusty Eddie" for some tips?

I think he's better at creating than removing.