E-brake problem

[Tom L.]

Went to a polish and shine show today (got a trophy, Yeah!!!). Upon departure I heard a scraping/grinding noise from the right rear wheel. I stopped, investigated and knew where it came from. I decided to limp to a local friends house and the noise dissapeared. When I got home I pulled the wheel and rotor and found part of a spring (see attachment) hanging in the rotor.

This a part of the the upper shoe spring, right?

I'm interested in replacing the hardware on both sides if this is the case, can this be done without dissasembling the bearing assembly? Thanks !!!

[Joe L.]

Re: E-brake problem

Went to a polish and shine show today (got a trophy, Yeah!!!). Upon departure I heard a scraping/grinding noise from the right rear wheel. I stopped, investigated and knew where it came from. I decided to limp to a local friends house and the noise dissapeared. When I got home I pulled the wheel and rotor and found part of a spring (see attachment) hanging in the rotor.

This a part of the the upper shoe spring, right?

I'm interested in replacing the hardware on both sides if this is the case, can this be done without dissasembling the bearing assembly? Thanks !!!

Lynn------


Yes, the piece of the spring pictured is part of the upper parking brake shoe spring.

The parking brake assemblies can be removed and serviced without removing the spindle as long as you have the rotor separated from the spindle. However, it's a little bit tricky. There is a special tool available which makes the job a LITTLE easier. It's like a screw-driver handle with a specially fabricated "hooked" end. It's fairly inexpensive and I think that many of the Corvette parts vendors carry it.

[Tom L.]

Re: E-brake problem

Thanks Joe!!

[John H.]

Re: E-brake problem

Lynn -

You can also tie down the coiled shoe web springs with dental floss or fishing line (like a mattress spring), install them, then cut the floss or line.

[Bill C.]

Re: E-brake problem

the only other 2 cents I can add is -

The lower 5/8 bolt that holds the caliper on (you will need to unbolt and lift off the calipers). is a PITA to get out. Just take your time and use a thin walled 5/8 open end wrench to work it out. It helps a little bit (room wise) if you get the sway bar mounting parts out of the way. The steel brake tube may get in the way a little to, but not always the case.

These are a few little things I ran into on my car.....

[Gerard F.]

Re: E-brake problem

Lynn,

Better check your rear wheel bearings:



I thought my problem was the E-Brake and the same little spring you pulled out. Could never adjust the ebrake on one side.

Check your wheels for movement, in and out, top to bottom or side to side.

May not be, but worth a check. Those springs just don't fall off.

[Joe L.]

Re: E-brake problem

Lynn,

Better check your rear wheel bearings:



I thought my problem was the E-Brake and the same little spring you pulled out. Could never adjust the ebrake on one side.

Check your wheels for movement, in and out, top to bottom or side to side.

May not be, but worth a check. Those springs just don't fall off.

Jerry------


EXCELLENT point!

[Graeme B.]

Re: E-brake problem

Jerry, I've seen this shot of yours plenty.Sorry but just noticed your # plate.Good one.

[Tom L.]

Re: E-brake problem

Jerry, this did cross my mind. What would be the most effective way to check them with the trailing arm on the car and not dissasembled. After your adventure I'd think you're an expert. Thanks!!

[Gerard F.]

Re: E-brake problem

Lynn,

Jack up the rear wheels off the ground. Then try to move the wheel side to side, and top and bottom. If you can feel the looseness in the bearing (and have excessive play top to bottom) then your "lubbed for life" bearings are on their way out. Check both sides.

"Life" to GM, meant 5 years or 50K miles. How old are yours?

While you have it up, also check your parking brake cable and the clips which hold the cable in place to the rear wheels.

If you have to change the bearings, probably the easiest is to take the trailing arms off and have them refurbed. Do both sides.

[Tom L.]

Re: E-brake problem

How old are they? I only have history of the car about 6 yrs. back. But through observation and "Grime" dating I'd say they were untouched for quite a while if not origional to the car.

Is the acceptable amount of movement in the bearings zero or is there some sort of measurement involved, such as a dial indicator on a magenetic stand?

[Gerard F.]

Re: E-brake problem

Lynn,

Not sure if there is an exact spec on the bearing movement, rocking it side to side, or top to bottom.

But if you can feel a movement, I'd worry.

About an hour before the picture above, the wheel was moving about a 1/4" at the outside of the wheel circumference. We thought that wasn't too bad, and thought we could make the 100 mile trip home. Besides, it felt more like a parking brake problem.

[Tom L.]

Re: E-brake problem

If I had 1/4" movement I think I'd have a stroke!!

When I first bought the car a few years ago I checked in the way you describe and felt no movement there. I'll wait to see if someone else has a more exact methiod. Thanks!

[Joe L.]

Re: E-brake problem

If I had 1/4" movement I think I'd have a stroke!!

When I first bought the car a few years ago I checked in the way you describe and felt no movement there. I'll wait to see if someone else has a more exact methiod. Thanks!

Lynn------


There will normally be a very small amount of movement due to the bearing end play. You can measure the end play with a dial indicator and it should be .001-.006". However, you can't really measure the axial end-play and there is no spec for it. This is where a failed bearing shows up. You really need to develop a "feel" for it using the method that Jerry described.

However, you can do this: set the front wheel bearings according to the procediure specified in the service manual. When you have CAREFULLY set the bearings according to this procedure, you will have an end play of .001-.006", exactly the same as you should have on the rear. So, with the tire and wheel mounted to the front, grip the wheel top and bottom and side-to-side and "rock" it. This should be exactly what you should feel for the rear if the bearings are ok.

Next, rotate the rear spindles. You should not feel any significant roughness in the bearings on rotation.

[Tom L.]

Re: E-brake problem

Joe, I completely understand what you are saying, I'm familiar with the "feel" of worn bearings. Using this methiong should I be assuming that the half shafts shoyuld be removed? My thought is that they will have some resistance to the rocking because they are connected. Thats the reason I asked for an alternate method of checking, I din't really want to remove the shafts but will if I have to. Call me lazy. Thanks!!