UA6: need a little help from my friends!

[Jerry B.]

i Have An Early 69 ,built Sept, 68 Corvette. This Car Came With The Original Factory Installed Option Ua6. Back In The 70's , I Replaced The Horn With A Very Loud Siren That Worked Great. Now I Am Ready To Convert It Back To Original. Everything Works Fine Except The Horn Will Only Operate With The Key On The On Postion And Turns Off When The Key Is Turned Off. There Are Separate Door Switches For The Alarm System. Weather The Buttons Are In Or Out, Does Not Affect The Horns Operation. I Have Checked Everything There Is To Check. Also, I Have Revisited The Service Manual , Aim References, And Past Postings. I Think I Am Missing Something ... A Ground Connection Somewhere Or A Reversed Ground Wire In This System. To My Knowledge, There Is Not A Colored Coded Wiring Diagram For 68'- E69's With The Ua6 Option. Your Thoughts Would Be Appreciated.

[Terry M.]

Re: UA6: need a little help from my friends!

i Have An Early 69 ,built Sept, 68 Corvette. This Car Came With The Original Factory Installed Option Ua6. Back In The 70's , I Replaced The Horn With A Very Loud Siren That Worked Great. Now I Am Ready To Convert It Back To Original. Everything Works Fine Except The Horn Will Only Operate With The Key On The On Postion And Turns Off When The Key Is Turned Off. There Are Separate Door Switches For The Alarm System. Weather The Buttons Are In Or Out, Does Not Affect The Horns Operation. I Have Checked Everything There Is To Check. Also, I Have Revisited The Service Manual , Aim References, And Past Postings. I Think I Am Missing Something ... A Ground Connection Somewhere Or A Reversed Ground Wire In This System. To My Knowledge, There Is Not A Colored Coded Wiring Diagram For 68'- E69's With The Ua6 Option. Your Thoughts Would Be Appreciated.

Are you referring to the ignition key, or the UA6 alarm key at the back of the car?

There was a wiring diagram of the UA6 system in Chevrolet Service News during the 1969 to 1972 time frame, but I am not in a position to look it up for a few days. And I won't be able to scan it for a lot longer.

If your ignition switch is controlling the alarm system (like one might infer from your post) the 12 volt source to the alarm key is hooked up wrong. It needs to come from a constant 12 volt source, not a switched source.

If on the other hand you are referring to the alarm key -- the system is operating properly.

[Lawrence M.]

Re: UA6: need a little help from my friends!

Jerry,
I have attached a copy of the UA6 wiring diagram that Terry refers to in his post. I hope it is large enough for you to read.

Larry

[John P.]

Re: UA6: need a little help from my friends!

Anyone know of a reputable outfit to restore my original 68 ua6 relay?
Thanks.

[Terry M.]

Re: UA6: need a little help from my friends!

Jerry,
I have attached a copy of the UA6 wiring diagram that Terry refers to in his post. I hope it is large enough for you to read.

Larry

Looking at that diagram I have to wonder if Jerry has the feed to the alarm in the wrong hole in the fuse block. The connector for the alarm has an "ear" on it so it can not be put in the wrong hole, but stranger things have happened.

[Jerry B.]

Re: UA6: need a little help from my friends!

Thanks Folks For Your Replys. I Guess I Did Not Make Myself Clear Enought And Did Not Explain The Problem With All The Details. I Have Been Operating The System With The b@s Factory Alarm Key In The Rear Of The Vechicle. The System Has A Separate Orange Wire With A Special Connector Connected To The Fuse Block. Also, This System Was Factory Installed With Separate Door And Hood Switches That Trigger The Alarm Unlike The Later Systems That Are Connected To The Exsisting Door Jam Switches. With The Battery Connected And The Alarm Key Engaged, The Horn Blows Regardless Weather The Doors Are Open Or Closed. The Horn With Stop Sounding Once The Alarm Key Is Turned Off . Hopefully, This Additional Information Will Help To Solve The Problem. Remember, This Is A Real Early Production 69 Car. Thanks Again....

[Jack H.]

Re: UA6: need a little help from my friends!

The switches that trigger the alarm (hood and door) are akin to the interior lamp door jam switches--they're 'self-learning' in terms of physical geometry.

Specifically, that means the switch has a threaded hex nut for installation into the door jam and a center section that's the actual switch. The plunger assy of the switch makes an interference fit into the hex mounting nut allowing it to slide in for an 'exact' fit to the specifics of that door jam air gap.

The switches were shipped in their full extended position (shaft all the way out with respect to the attaching nut), installed and the door (or hood) was slammed shut. That caused the plunger shaft to slide back into the hex nut for a 'perfect' fit to that specific door/hood air gap.

If the switch has ever been removed and re-installed without 're-setting' the plunger to its fully extended position, it's VERY possible that it's now incorrectly set for the geometry specifics of your car and it's NEVER opening up when the door/hood is closed (alarm sees the door/hood OPEN when they're actually closed).

But, everyone knows this, eh? I trust you've checked the trigger voltage status at the alarm's relay to confirm/deny the trigger switches are actually opening up (no contact closure to ground) when the doors and hood are actually shut...

[Jerry B.]

Re: UA6: need a little help from my friends!

Jack Thanks For All Your Addional Info . Did The 68,s Have This Option.

[Jim T.]

Re: UA6: need a little help from my friends!

Jack Thanks For All Your Addional Info . Did The 68,s Have This Option.

Yes, only 388 of the 68's had the option.

[Jerry B.]

Re: UA6: need a little help from my friends!

Vette Vues

Take your time and enjoy the challenge. A special thanks to Roger Owsley for his wisdom and patience with me!