Idler Arm on Steering linkage restoration

[Joe L.]

Re: Idler Arm on Steering linkage restoration

Joe,
GM #3744796, lists this as 5/8 id x 1 OD x 1/4 thk. I didn't see anything that looks like this when I took it apart. Is this located over or under the plastic washer? I haven't cleaned the relay rod yet, so maybe it's stuck on that. I'll check tonight.

Paragon doesn't mention this.
Dr Rebuild has a seal, their number 6200263, Item C page 149 but I can't tell from their picture, if it's a seal or the plastic washer.

Steve-----


The seal does have the dimensions described. However, it's made from an expanded foam material and compresses significantly when installed. At the moment, I don't recall the order of assembly of the washer and seal. However, vaguely I think the washer goes on the relay rod side of the seal.

[Steve L.]

Re: Idler Arm on Steering linkage restoration

It would make more sense to have the plastic washer, foam seal, then the idler arm side.

This way the plastic washer protects the foam seal.

I think my foam seal would have disintegrated 30 yrs ago.

[Alan D.]

Re: Idler Arm on Steering linkage restoration

Here is the order of mine, note damage is from me (DA) Removed after 43 years due to a lot of slop which I never felt while driving (do have part still)

[Joe L.]

Re: Idler Arm on Steering linkage restoration

Here is the order of mine, note damage is from me (DA) Removed after 43 years due to a lot of slop which I never felt while driving (do have part still)

Alan------


All of these parts were once available from GM but are no more.

[Steve L.]

Re: Idler Arm on Steering linkage restoration

All these parts survived on mine except the foam washer.
This should be easy to re-create with a couple of hollow punches. What kind of foam is this, closed cell, open cell, density of the cells??

[Steve L.]

Re: Idler Arm on Steering linkage restoration

It is possible to get some lube into these old arms...

when the rubber boot is removed from the vertical arm to lever, you will notice a nylon bushing in the joint. if you look closely the bushing has 4 slots that run down to the socket(I think its 4 it has been a few years since I have done one) I have lubed this in 2 ways. First I simply used some liquid lube in a squirt bottle and shot the lube into the 4 slots while rotating the arm, you notice a marked difference in the force to turn the arm. Second I have used wheel bearing grease mixed with lube to thin it out and packed the arm while rotating the lever.

Also with some sucess I have done the same on the ball stud end. I use a feeler gauge and put that between the nylon socket and stud and squirted lube in between while rotating the stud.

Rich

Rich,
Your right about the 4 holes. I put some 80 weight gear oil into a syringe that I had from a inkjet refill kit. The needle goes down almost a 1/4 inch. I injected the oil into each hole. Then rotated it and did it again a few times. It makes a big difference. It took a lot of force on the syringe to get the oil in but it works. I probably should have tried a lighter oil. It doesn't take much to loosen it up.

Your other tip on the other side works as well

Thanks for this great tip.

[Alan D.]

Re: Idler Arm on Steering linkage restoration

Steve, believe those are available from LI (50-10C) Check their picture first to make sure.

[Steve L.]

Re: Idler Arm on Steering linkage restoration

Steve, believe those are available from LI (50-10C) Check their picture first to make sure.

Thanks Alan, but who is LI?

[Alan D.]

Re: Idler Arm on Steering linkage restoration

Sorry, Long Island Corvette. Look at licorvette.com

[Steve L.]

Re: Idler Arm on Steering linkage restoration

Sorry, Long Island Corvette. Look at licorvette.com

Thanks, I've seen references to them a lot.

[Steve L.]

Re: Idler Arm on Steering linkage restoration

I'm trying to understand the order of the plastic washer and foam seal.

It makes sense to as follows:
relay rod, plastic washer, foam seal, idler arm.
This way the foam seal, seals off the ball joint on the idler arm

Is this correct.

[Joe L.]

Re: Idler Arm on Steering linkage restoration

I'm trying to understand the order of the plastic washer and foam seal.

It makes sense to as follows:
relay rod, plastic washer, foam seal, idler arm.
This way the foam seal, seals off the ball joint on the idler arm

Is this correct.

Steve-----


That is the correct order of assembly and that's what the seal is supposed to do.

[Scott S.]

Re: Idler Arm on Steering linkage restoration

It is possible to get some lube into these old arms...

when the rubber boot is removed from the vertical arm to lever, you will notice a nylon bushing in the joint. if you look closely the bushing has 4 slots that run down to the socket(I think its 4 it has been a few years since I have done one) I have lubed this in 2 ways. First I simply used some liquid lube in a squirt bottle and shot the lube into the 4 slots while rotating the arm, you notice a marked difference in the force to turn the arm. Second I have used wheel bearing grease mixed with lube to thin it out and packed the arm while rotating the lever.

Also with some sucess I have done the same on the ball stud end. I use a feeler gauge and put that between the nylon socket and stud and squirted lube in between while rotating the stud.

Rich

Should either the ball stud end OR the lever end be movable without putting the Idler arm in a vice? My original is frozen solid and so is the (presumed) NOS example I have, at least when trying to move them with my bare hands.

[Tim D.]

Re: Idler Arm on Steering linkage restoration

Hi guys...I'm currently installing complete new steering system and ...I'm VERY confused regarding the components and correct assembly order at idler arm to relay rod junction. I have read the threads in the archives and I'm still confused.
As most of you know, the AIM doesn't show this since this came to the factory as an assembly.

1. Is it idler arm, foam seal, plastic washer, relay rod, castle nut, cotter pin OR

2. Is it idler arm, plastic washer, foam seal, relay rod, castle nut, cotter pin OR

Also, I know there is a rubber boot at the top of the idler arm (part of the idler arm assembly) where it comes down from the bracket that attaches to the frame BUT is there a second rubber boot where the idler arm attaches to the relay rod? It seems like there has to be...because when I tighten the castle nut on ball stud end (even before I get to torque spec) the castle nuts' slots are way above where the cotter pin hole is....so when I install the cotter pin it is not positioned through the castle slots (it is well below the castle slots) and therefore would not keep the castle nut from backing off and loosening???? SOOOO....

3. Is it idler arm, foam seal, plastic washer, rubber boot, relay rod, castle nut, cotter pin OR

4. Is it idler arm, plastic washer, foam seal, rubber boot, relay rod, castle nut, cotter pin????

I have searched all the major vendor catalogs and some list the "Idler Arm Boot" for around $9.95 or so...it looks like it has 6 square "knobs" equally spaced around it......is this what I am missing?


I removed a reproduction idler arm with incorrect zert fittings etc and this arm had the 2nd boot where the relay rod attaches.
I am installing a "correct" reproduction idler arm without zert fittings etc etc.....and it did not come with the 2nd boot. It only came with the foam seal.

A photo of any or all of this would REALLY help!

Very frustrated, waisting time!!!!!

Thanks in advance for your knowledge and expertise.

Tim Dailey

[Joe L.]

Re: Idler Arm on Steering linkage restoration

Hi guys...I'm currently installing complete new steering system and ...I'm VERY confused regarding the components and correct assembly order at idler arm to relay rod junction. I have read the threads in the archives and I'm still confused.
As most of you know, the AIM doesn't show this since this came to the factory as an assembly.

1. Is it idler arm, foam seal, plastic washer, relay rod, castle nut, cotter pin OR

2. Is it idler arm, plastic washer, foam seal, relay rod, castle nut, cotter pin OR

Also, I know there is a rubber boot at the top of the idler arm (part of the idler arm assembly) where it comes down from the bracket that attaches to the frame BUT is there a second rubber boot where the idler arm attaches to the relay rod? It seems like there has to be...because when I tighten the castle nut on ball stud end (even before I get to torque spec) the castle nuts' slots are way above where the cotter pin hole is....so when I install the cotter pin it is not positioned through the castle slots (it is well below the castle slots) and therefore would not keep the castle nut from backing off and loosening???? SOOOO....

3. Is it idler arm, foam seal, plastic washer, rubber boot, relay rod, castle nut, cotter pin OR

4. Is it idler arm, plastic washer, foam seal, rubber boot, relay rod, castle nut, cotter pin????

I have searched all the major vendor catalogs and some list the "Idler Arm Boot" for around $9.95 or so...it looks like it has 6 square "knobs" equally spaced around it......is this what I am missing?


I removed a reproduction idler arm with incorrect zert fittings etc and this arm had the 2nd boot where the relay rod attaches.
I am installing a "correct" reproduction idler arm without zert fittings etc etc.....and it did not come with the 2nd boot. It only came with the foam seal.

A photo of any or all of this would REALLY help!

Very frustrated, waisting time!!!!!

Thanks in advance for your knowledge and expertise.

Tim Dailey

Tim------


There should be nothing difficult or confusing about this. The order is as you describe in "1."

There is no boot on the idler arm end which attaches to the relay rod.

If you do not achieve proper alignment of the cotter pin with the slots in the slotted nut when the nut is properly torqued, then some of the parts you are using are incorrect or off-spec. Most likely, you are using an incorrect slotted nut.