Correct starter nose for a C-2 4SP.

[Jim S.]

I just found and bought a correctly dated starter for my 66. Owner says it was recently rebuilt , and off an automatic vette. It appears to have the aluminum nose on it .Even though it is all painted black , a magnet shows no attraction.

So now to my question . Were these noses interchangable in 66 for auto and 4 Speed ?

Will it fit into my 403 Bell housing with a 153 tooth Fly wheel ? (Bell housing , flywheel , and motor all in different parts of the garage and nowhere near reassembly)

And even if it does , will it be correct looking , or should I replace the nose ? If so with what Part # ?

As always, I await you knowledgable responses


Thanks Guys,

Jim

[John H.]

Re: Correct starter nose for a C-2 4SP.

So now to my question . Were these noses interchangable in 66 for auto and 4 Speed ?

Jim -

Yes - all '64-'67 327's (manual and Powerglide) used the same #1107320 starter.

[Jim S.]

Re: Correct starter nose for a C-2 4SP.

Re: Two Starter Nose Designs
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Parsons (3491)
While we're on the subject of cast iron starter noses, I would like to interject some added info that MANY, MANY people are completely unaware of.
If ANY 63-later Chevy V8 engine (or even a 63-later 6cyl engine) has a BIG flywheel/flexplate with 168 teeth, then a starter nose with staggered bolt pattern MUST be used. If the vehicle has has a manual tranny flywheel (168 teeth), then ONLY a CAST IRON nose with the staggered bolt pattern will work. An alum starter nose with a staggered bolt pattern WILL NOT FIT into the starter bulge of a 444 or 621 bell housing!!!!!!!!!!
The alum nose with a staggered bolt pattern ONLY FITS an auto tranny housing. But the cast iron nose will fit EITHER a manual tranny housing or an auto tranny housing.

The 55-62 flywheels were ONLY the big, 168 teeth version and the bell housings (iron or alum) were the open bottom style and the starter nose (iron ONLY) had 3 horizontal holes which attached it directly to the bell housing.
Chevy trucks, up to about 70, still used the open bottom style bell housing and a starter mounted to the housing.


Tom-----


"Yes, that's good information. I was pretty sure that the staggered pattern, aluminum nose would not work with manual trans, 168 tooth applications. In fact, a week ago, or so, I asked in another thread if anyone had any information contrary to this but I got no responses.

I believe the aluminum, staggered bolt nose did not come into use until the 1970 model year. From that time on, it was used for all Corvette THM applications.




Thanks John,

I thought so too , but than I did some archives searching on how to repaint it and found the threads above. While it did not cover my particular situation , it did get me wondering !

And since almost everything I do regarding this retoration involves two steps forward and one step back, I was certain this was just one more example. Good to know every once in a while I can skip a step !


Jim

[Joe L.]

Re: Correct starter nose for a C-2 4SP.

Re: Two Starter Nose Designs
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Parsons (3491)
While we're on the subject of cast iron starter noses, I would like to interject some added info that MANY, MANY people are completely unaware of.
If ANY 63-later Chevy V8 engine (or even a 63-later 6cyl engine) has a BIG flywheel/flexplate with 168 teeth, then a starter nose with staggered bolt pattern MUST be used. If the vehicle has has a manual tranny flywheel (168 teeth), then ONLY a CAST IRON nose with the staggered bolt pattern will work. An alum starter nose with a staggered bolt pattern WILL NOT FIT into the starter bulge of a 444 or 621 bell housing!!!!!!!!!!
The alum nose with a staggered bolt pattern ONLY FITS an auto tranny housing. But the cast iron nose will fit EITHER a manual tranny housing or an auto tranny housing.

The 55-62 flywheels were ONLY the big, 168 teeth version and the bell housings (iron or alum) were the open bottom style and the starter nose (iron ONLY) had 3 horizontal holes which attached it directly to the bell housing.
Chevy trucks, up to about 70, still used the open bottom style bell housing and a starter mounted to the housing.


Tom-----


"Yes, that's good information. I was pretty sure that the staggered pattern, aluminum nose would not work with manual trans, 168 tooth applications. In fact, a week ago, or so, I asked in another thread if anyone had any information contrary to this but I got no responses.

I believe the aluminum, staggered bolt nose did not come into use until the 1970 model year. From that time on, it was used for all Corvette THM applications.




Thanks John,

I thought so too , but than I did some archives searching on how to repaint it and found the threads above. While it did not cover my particular situation , it did get me wondering !

And since almost everything I do regarding this retoration involves two steps forward and one step back, I was certain this was just one more example. Good to know every once in a while I can skip a step !


Jim

Jim------


The aluminum starter nose with "straight across" bolt mounting and using one 4-5/8" mounting bolt and one 1-7/8" mounting bolt is the one you need. This nose was used for all 1963-68 Corvettes except 66-68 L-36, L-68, L-72, and L-71.

Some of these were painted with the starter and some were not painted.

The 403 bellhousing will only work with a 12-3/4", 153 tooth flywheel and that's exactly the combination that works with the starter nose I described above.

[Jim S.]

Re: Correct starter nose for a C-2 4SP.

Hi Joe ,

Like I said, I was happy to score a "correct" Starter and solenoid. Then when I did an archive search to determine how to repaint it, I got nervous about the nose , knowing it came off an Automatic and reading those posts I quoted above. I thought that even if it fit , I might need the iron nose rather than the aluminum one to be "correct" ( whats that phrase ..... " A little knowledge is a dangerous thing " !)

It does indeed have the Straight Across bolt pattern, requiring the bolts you describe. I will now take it in for some R&R with instructions to leave it configured as is !

As to my original reason for the search "how to paint it " I must say I am as confussed as ever . My options, from pictures I have seen , include Painting it all Semi Black except for the bakelite....... Painting only the base and half the nose leaving the solenoid , the screws that hold the coils , and the rivets at the base all natural ....... and I even saw a picture where the whole back plate was left unpainted. In all cases they were pictures of "originals"

Thanks ,

Jim