Valve cover gaskets

[Michael J.]

Yesterday my project was to change the valve covers (the ones on it were not correct, you wonder why people waste money on stamped steel, non-original type covers that cost almost as much as the correct ones), and I used the recommended gaskets with the silver coating on them. The old ones were not like this, and they stuck to the head in several places which I had to scrape off and clean. Since this is an L71, which will need valve adjustments from time to time and the valve covers removed, I am hoping these silver coated gaskets will not stick. Is that the purpose of the silver coating? Also, after heating them up and running the engine for a while, the valve cover bolts needed to be tightened again, guess this is the gaskets seating? Thanks, BTW, when I checked the dates on the heads, they are a month too new to be original, bummer, glad the judges can't check that.

[Mike M.]

Re: Valve cover gaskets

i use 3M weatherstrip cement to adhere the gasket to the valve cover. then you'll be able to re-use the gaskets. after a couple of heat cycles, the gaskets won't need re-tightened. mike

[Larry M.]

Re: Valve cover gaskets

Agree with #14.......but I also coat the head side of the gasket with Vaseline to help prevent sticking for future removal(s). Especially for the solid lifter engines.

Larry

[Wayne M.]

Re: Valve cover gaskets

i use 3M weatherstrip cement to adhere the gasket to the valve cover. then you'll be able to re-use the gaskets. after a couple of heat cycles, the gaskets won't need re-tightened. mike

Mike -- am putting a set of those aftermarket cork/(in a) rubber binder [to prevent oil bleed-thru] on my driver BB (original '65 v.covers). Happen to have GM black weatherstrip glue; instructions say to put a coat on both contact surfaces AND LET DRY. Then 2nd coat and press together. Ever heard of that ?

Also, is it true that you only have to glue the entire contact surfaces on the bottom lip of the cover (especially towards the firewall because of engine slope), and that the top only needs 4 or 5 dabs to hold it in place. If true, this would certainly make it easier to replace gaskets in the future.

[Edward J.]

Re: Valve cover gaskets

Mike, Wayne, I have had much experience with the coated gasket made by GM in the 70's/80's working at the gm dealerships. those gaskets had a real tendency to adhear to the cylinder head and valve cover surfaces,after just a few monthsthe removel of the gasket in one piece is almost impossiable, I think Larry has the best idea to save the gasket for re-use-vaseline, and glue the surface of valve cover to adhere one side with weatherstrip adhesive.

[Michael J.]

Re: Valve cover gaskets

Is there a reason to glue any part of the gasket to the valve cover? It seems the tabs hold it in place very well, I didn't need to glue it to have it stay in place. And isn't the silver coating supposed to be a sealer to prevent oil bleed through of the cork?

[John H.]

Re: Valve cover gaskets

Is there a reason to glue any part of the gasket to the valve cover? It seems the tabs hold it in place very well, I didn't need to glue it to have it stay in place. And isn't the silver coating supposed to be a sealer to prevent oil bleed through of the cork?

Mike -

The idea is that the adhesive keeps the gasket firmly attached to the valve cover all the way around so it isn't damaged when removing the valve cover to lash the valves. The normal leak path is between the top of the gasket and the flange on the cover, not through the cork. Oil on the head side of the gasket before installing the cover will keep the gasket from sticking to the head rail and tearing during removal of the cover.

[Edward J.]

Re: Valve cover gaskets

Mike, these gaskets were never glued from the factory, its just they way most of us do things, it will hold the gasket in place when re-assembling, sometimes in tight situations you can bump the valvetrain and knock the gasket of one of the retainers.

[Timothy B.]

Re: Valve cover gaskets

I know this discussion is about big block but on my small block steel valve covers if the gaskets are not glued to both surfaces they leak in the rear lower corners.

I use ultra black and glue them to the valve covers and let them sit a day. I then clean the head surface and coat the gasket bottom again with ultra black and install snug. On the solid lifter small blocks, the aluminum valve covers helps with this poor seal but those steel covers IMO that's the source of many leaks..