TI distributor advance curve

[Joe C.]

Re: TI distributor advance curve

If you don't already have them, attached are the 1965 factory distributor timing specs.

327/375 with TI calls for 10-12 degrees initial. You should use the specs for the "064" distributor and increase the initial to 12-14.

Use a degree tape on your balancer, and you don't need a Sun machine.

If you use compliant springs, then you must check that the advance is not beginning to deploy at idle speed when checking your base timing.

If you'd rather not fool with a new brass bushing, then you can bend the heels of the flyweights so that the heels themselves act as the positive advance stop, thereby eliminating the need for the bushing. An additional benefit from using this method, is that your total advance set point becomes fully adjustable. The spring and weight kit from Accel contains a brass bushing. If you decide to depend on the bushing to act as your advance "stop", then DO NOT use the rubber bushing, as it will not last more than a couple hundred hours. I have NO bushing in place.

I have my engine set up with 16 degrees initial advance (at 1000 RPM), and 22 degrees centrifugal advance, all in at 2500 RPM.

[Clem Z.]

Re: TI distributor advance curve

If you don't already have them, attached are the 1965 factory distributor timing specs.

327/375 with TI calls for 10-12 degrees initial. You should use the specs for the "064" distributor and increase the initial to 12-14.

Use a degree tape on your balancer, and you don't need a Sun machine.

If you use compliant springs, then you must check that the advance is not beginning to deploy at idle speed when checking your base timing.

If you'd rather not fool with a new brass bushing, then you can bend the heels of the flyweights so that the heels themselves act as the positive advance stop, thereby eliminating the need for the bushing. An additional benefit from using this method, is that your total advance set point becomes fully adjustable. The spring and weight kit from Accel contains a brass bushing. If you decide to depend on the bushing to act as your advance "stop", then DO NOT use the rubber bushing, as it will not last more than a couple hundred hours. I have NO bushing in place.

I have my engine set up with 16 degrees initial advance (at 1000 RPM), and 22 degrees centrifugal advance, all in at 2500 RPM.

joe you are not going to bend GM weights because the are hardened. the aftermarket ones are not and they wear putting metal powder all thru the dist. they even cause the fixed part they ride on to wear.

[Jerry G.]

Re: TI distributor advance curve

Jerry, Lars up in Lafayette has a Sun Distributor machine and is a genius with advance maps and specs. I also have a manometer to calibrate your injector if you need to. If you want his contact information I can get it to you. My # is 303-520-6363. Paul

I just ordered the aluminum/bronze gear and the brass advance button. As soon as I get those installed I'll give you a call. Trying to get distributor ready for April 17 race at High Plains Racetrack. Thank you Jerry

[Jerry G.]

Re: TI distributor advance curve

yes you can you just need the part including the brass washer under the pole piece. i don't know the rules the racing assoc that jerry is running under BUT the TI was never used till 1964 so if jerry is racing a 63 corvette is it OK to use the TI ?

I'm running a 64. My racing organization requires that you declare a point in time for your preparation. My car is prepared to 1966 SCCA General Competition rules requirements.