re Engine install /trans advice

[Wayne P.]

I am doing a body off . I am just ready to install the engine clutch etc.
Before I start any advice or wisdom appreciated.

[Edward J.]

Re: re Engine install /trans advice

Wayne, are you installing the trans. also w/the engine assy. ? do you have a extra helping hand ? it should be pretty easy with the body of the frame.when lowering engine protect the freshly painted frame with some drop cloths.

[Wayne P.]

Re: re Engine install /trans advice

Edward I have the Engine sitting in the engine mounts bolted with a jack under oil pan . I was hoping to slide transmission in. Not sure if I need to dial indicate the bell housing as it has two dowels . I put in a new bushing that came with my Luk clutch. I will polish the transmission input shaft and give it a small amount
and lube lightly

[Edward J.]

Re: re Engine install /trans advice

Wayne sometimes its easier to install as a complete assy. since its it the engine is sitting on frame, put the bell housing on first ,then trans. did you line up the disc into pilot bearing w/tool? Other wise you'll fight trying to get trans input shaft into bell housing and lined into pilot brg. is your car sm. blk. or big blk.?

[Dennis S.]

Re: re Engine install /trans advice

Not sure if I need to dial indicate the bell housing as it has two dowels

Wayne
No time like the present. Did your clutch chatter before? We checked my bellhousing and it was off...changed the offset of the pins. My new LUK clutch is as smooth as a baby's behind.

[Wayne P.]

Re: re Engine install /trans advice

Thanks to answer questions. I only had chatter when I put it into reverse.
Transmission was smooth. Engine 327 small block 365 cam solid lifter comp cam rollers . I will try to get a line up tool. Transmission shop mentioned I could get my had in their and allign it by hand ? Maybe my wifes hand. I also have a couple long bolts that I will cut the heads off to slide transmission in. Would you have a torque speck on flywheel and bolts for the clutch disk handy? ( bought new bolts for both. Thanks

[Mike G.]

Re: re Engine install /trans advice

Wayne: I mated the trans to my '65 327 before dropping the assembly into the chassis. Body was off. Since I was working alone, I did use long bolts (heads removed) as guide dowels.
The engine was on "moto-feet". As I slid the trans forward, the last inch or so bound up, not surprising since those plastic alignment tools are lacking.
So the question became "how do I engage the clutch to free things up?"
Looking around, I picked up a long pry bar (good old Harbor Freight) and hooked it onto the cluch fork. Pulled back on the bar while pushing the trans forward and it clicked home.

[Richard G.]

Re: re Engine install /trans advice

As far as the transmission input shaft alignment goes I would bother if the bellhousing was original to the block. This alignment is a pain to complete and I would suggest it be checked with the crank only in the block. Rebuilt motor are a PITA to rotate and completing the rotation without moving the dial is a real issue with rebuilt motor. Most are acceptable and one has to figure it worked for years so why wouldn't it now? For the anal type go ahead and check it. Do the face measurement first and then the offset.

Getting the dial set up to read without moving is difficult issue. I suggest at least to identical measurements to prove the dial is repeating before and alignment pins are changed out. BTW on on SBC (a Camaro) with reoccurring flex plate cracking issues there was .100 run-out on the face of the automatic pump at a 10 inch diameter. Unsure if the back of the block or the transmission was machined incorrectly but one or the other had a huge issue. Transmission went over 100K before failing. The flex plate was replaced every 15K.

The plastic alignment tools work ok. I am talking about the ones with splines. The best option is a steel transmission input shaft but these are difficult to come by, especially for a one time use. Add some grease to the tip and some light grease to the splines before the install. Don't forget to pack the throw-out bearing inside diameter with grease. That is the reason for the groove in the inside diameter, to hold the grease. Use alignment pins in at least two of the holes and never pull the transmission in with bolts. Using bolts to install accounts for all of the broken cases on these transmissions. Use a pry-bar on the clutch fork if you need to align the plate better than your tools allow. This will almost always allow the clutch plate to move enough for the pilot to line up and the transmission to seat on the bellhousing. The transmission can be put into two gears at once by engaging reverse with any one of the forward gears to keep the input shaft from turning while attempting to line-up the spines in the clutch to the transmission. I just disconnect the reverse lever at the transmission, if the linkage is installed, and move the lever with a small Crescent wrench. Don't forget to check the fit of the clutch plate as soon as it arrives. Spline count could be off better to know it fit before the install. Don't forget to lube the clutch pedal at the pivot points including where the clutch fork push rod sets on the clutch fork and where the clutch fingers meet the throw-out bearing. GM recommends graphite grease for the through-out bearing recess. Did you know the damper springs on the clutch plate are on the flywheel side on 4 and 6 cylinder motors and the V8 goes opposite? Remember to tighten the clutch plate attachment bolts evenly as the plate is pulled into the flywheel. Don't tighten the speedometer cable nut with a wrench. It doesn't help if you have a oil leak here. Most of the time the speedometer gear has a groove worn into it and this is the cause of the leak. Replace this gear! It will not leak and just hand tighten the speedometer nut.
Seems simple but all the procedures have to be followed. Guys hate to grease up their newly rebuilt parts but it makes the a difference on on the clutch feels and how long it last.
Best of luck
Rick

[Wayne P.]

Re: re Engine install /trans advice

All great advice and yes I will replace the speedo gear. I feel much better about tackling the clutch . Thanks will keep in touch . The throw out bushing was pre greased. I was lent a alignment tool. Clutch is in. It came with graphite grease . bell housing on. I noticed the throw out bushing had a point on one side of the diameter. not sure what way to face it ?

[John H.]

Re: re Engine install /trans advice

I noticed the throw out bushing had a point on one side of the diameter. not sure what way to face it ?

Wayne -

It doesn't matter - it just keeps the bearing carrier from rotating.

[Wayne P.]

Re: re Engine install /trans advice

Thanks John