Good Morning. I Just Got My L-71 Running The Other Day And I'm Trying To Determine If It Would Be Of Any Value To Use One Of Those Modified High Flow Thermostats Made By Stewart. Other Information On The Discussion Boards Indicates That The 180 Degree Thermostat Is Correct. And, I'm Using One Of Bill Mock's Premium Water Pumps. Thank You. Don.
L-71 Thermostat
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Re: L-71 Thermostat
It might be worth a try. I had a 180 on mine, but I found it seemed to work out better if I just took it out altogether. It runs cooler most all the time without the thermostat (I live in a hotter part of the country, in the summer anyway), and I just let it warm up more before I do much higher RPM driving. If you live in a cold place where you need the warm-up, a high flow thermo would be in order if you are having any heating issues. Good luck.Big Tanks In the High Mountains of New Mexico- Top
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Re: L-71 Thermostat
I have the stock T-stat in my 68 L71.(Everything else, too) It works fine. I drive it when it's 30F and 90F. I get heat in the winter within a few minutes.
Rich1966 L79 Convertible. Milano Maroon
1968 L71 Coupe. Rally Red (Sold 6/21)
1963 Corvair Monza Convertible- Top
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Re: L-71 Thermostat
Good Morning. I Just Got My L-71 Running The Other Day And I'm Trying To Determine If It Would Be Of Any Value To Use One Of Those Modified High Flow Thermostats Made By Stewart. Other Information On The Discussion Boards Indicates That The 180 Degree Thermostat Is Correct. And, I'm Using One Of Bill Mock's Premium Water Pumps. Thank You. Don.
The thermostat rating depends on the year you're talking about. 1967 L-71 WITHOUT K-19 used a 180 degree. With K-19 a 195 degree thermostat was used.
For 1968-69 ALL L-71 (and, all other engines, too) used a 195 degree thermostat. There may be some slight advantage in using a 180 degree for these applications, though, and that's what I use. It certainly will cause no problems. However, I DO NOT RECOMMEND using anything lower than 180 degree.In Appreciation of John Hinckley- Top
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Re: L-71 Thermostat
Don,
I remember seeing a post by Joe Lucia some time ago. He recommended the Robert Shaw Flow Kooler 330-180. Here's a link to the part:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BRA-330-180/Application/?query=Make|CHEVROLET|Liter|7.0
I'm planning to run it in my '66 L72. I hope this helps.
JoeLast edited by Joe R.; March 12, 2010, 10:16 AM.- Top
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Re: L-71 Thermostat
Don,
I found the thread I was thinking of. All of the heavyweights seem to agree on the Robertshaw thermostat.
https://www.forums.ncrs.org/showthre...0-180&uid=2784
Joe- Top
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Re: L-71 Thermostat
Don,
I found the thread I was thinking of. All of the heavyweights seem to agree on the Robertshaw thermostat.
https://www.forums.ncrs.org/showthre...0-180&uid=2784
JoeBig Tanks In the High Mountains of New Mexico- Top
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Re: L-71 Thermostat
The engine would run about 200 after the thermo opened, and stay there, maybe up toward 210 after heavy stop and go driving around town in the summer, and after you shut down the temp would continue to rise and coolant would spew out the overflow tube. I tried various things, like reducing the level of coolant in the stock radiator to 2, 3 and then 4 inches below the neck, but it would still spew out. I got tired of refilling all the time and even thought about a coolant recovery jar, but too many deducts on judging. So, after I took the therm out (it was new as was the RC-15 cap), this doesn't happen and the temp stays below 180 all the time even in stop and go driving. Maybe this better more advanced thermo will solve the problem.Big Tanks In the High Mountains of New Mexico- Top
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Re: L-71 Thermostat
The engine would run about 200 after the thermo opened, and stay there, maybe up toward 210 after heavy stop and go driving around town in the summer, and after you shut down the temp would continue to rise and coolant would spew out the overflow tube. I tried various things, like reducing the level of coolant in the stock radiator to 2, 3 and then 4 inches below the neck, but it would still spew out. I got tired of refilling all the time and even thought about a coolant recovery jar, but too many deducts on judging. So, after I took the therm out (it was new as was the RC-15 cap), this doesn't happen and the temp stays below 180 all the time even in stop and go driving. Maybe this better more advanced thermo will solve the problem.
Maybe the Robertshaw thermostat will help you, but I doubt it. The thermostat doesn't set the max temp the engine runs at. It sets the minimum "hot" temperature. If the radiator is original type it should have a max cold fill mark. Are you filling above that mark? Don't ask me how I know about this!My engine puked out a whole lotta coolant before I got wise to it.
Joe- Top
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Re: L-71 Thermostat
Michael,
Maybe the Robertshaw thermostat will help you, but I doubt it. The thermostat doesn't set the max temp the engine runs at. It sets the minimum "hot" temperature. If the radiator is original type it should have a max cold fill mark. Are you filling above that mark? Don't ask me how I know about this!My engine puked out a whole lotta coolant before I got wise to it.
JoeBig Tanks In the High Mountains of New Mexico- Top
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Re: L-71 Thermostat
Well, mine's a '66 L72, so maybe I overspoke. Anyhow, the cold fill mark on mine is on the outside, right below the radiator cap. My car does not run an overflow tank, I assume yours doesn't either. That's why I figured your radiator would have similar markings. Does anyone know the part numbers for the L72 and L71 radiators?
JoeLast edited by Joe R.; March 15, 2010, 09:18 AM.- Top
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Re: L-71 Thermostat
No, I have no marks on the outside except the "Harrison". No, I have no recovery tank, as no BBs did I think. Although I have thought about getting one when it keep puking out coolant. How far below the top of the radiator cap neck is your mark? I have tried up to 5 inches below that (with several rows of tubes exposed and dry) as fill level and it still pukes. Maybe my RC-15 cap is weak. It is new, but I guess they can be bad from new.Big Tanks In the High Mountains of New Mexico- Top
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