Original Paint

[Kevin G.]

I'm looking for advise on how to prepare an original paint car. The paint is quite thin and doesn't have much of a shine to it. I'm hoping to have the car judged in Charlotte for Bowtie and do not want to ruin it's chance for the exterior star. I have no experience with a buffer and would only work on it by hand. Or maybe just leave it alone? Any tips?
Thanks,

[Patrick H.]

Re: Original Paint

I would not take a "buffer" to it.

I use the Meguiars dual action polisher which will not harm the paint; it's available in kit form with some of their waxes too:

http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/detail/MEG+G110V2

Note that there are certain pads sold to "match" the polish or wax you are using by matching the "agressiveness" of the agent.

Similar kits / tools are sold through Griots if that is your preference. I'd clay bar it first followed by a mild cleaning agent or polish. Finish with some Gold Class or NXT and you're done.

Patrick

[Rich P.]

Re: Original Paint

Kevin,

you can do a great job polishing by hand. I use 3M perfecti-it II and a good quality rag to apply/rub in then a good supply of rags to wipe off then repeat with 3M polish for either dark or light colors. You can watch the shine come up as you work each section.

Rich

[Patrick H.]

Re: Original Paint

Oh yes, you can do a good job by hand.

But once you try a polisher like the one mentioned in my previous post you'll never go back.

I am amazed how quickly I can polish or wax a car now. And, my rotator cuff doesn't scream from overuse.

Patrick

[Jack C.]

Re: Original Paint

Kevin, I used "Adam's" Restore and was very happy with the results on my original paint car. Plenty of white rags and elbow grease. On a dark car, you can see what's coming off on the white rags.

[Kevin G.]

Re: Original Paint

I would not take a "buffer" to it.

I use the Meguiars dual action polisher which will not harm the paint; it's available in kit form with some of their waxes too:

http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/detail/MEG+G110V2

Note that there are certain pads sold to "match" the polish or wax you are using by matching the "agressiveness" of the agent.

Similar kits / tools are sold through Griots if that is your preference. I'd clay bar it first followed by a mild cleaning agent or polish. Finish with some Gold Class or NXT and you're done.

Patrick

The polisher does sound like a great idea. I'll look for it today. Does using the clay bar remove paint? There are some very thin areas that I would be afraid of going right through. As it its now you can see the primer through the paint in some places.

Kevin,

you can do a great job polishing by hand. I use 3M perfecti-it II and a good quality rag to apply/rub in then a good supply of rags to wipe off then repeat with 3M polish for either dark or light colors. You can watch the shine come up as you work each section.

Rich

Thanks for another great tip! I did visit there site, lots to choose from.

Kevin, I used "Adam's" Restore and was very happy with the results on my original paint car. Plenty of white rags and elbow grease. On a dark car, you can see what's coming off on the white rags.

It's the what's coming off that worries me! LOL I want to remove the stains spots and dirt but not the paint? What color is your car? Would war bonnet yellow be light or dark, it is metallic?

[Terry M.]

Re: Original Paint

Kevin - Don't worry about the lack of gloss on your 1972. Many "young folks," who weren't around in the "good old days," don't remember what real factory lacquer paint looks like. We all become too used to the BC/CC that has been used now for several deccades. The "good old days" factory paint jobs were sometimes pretty low gloss.

Leave it alone for a while. In case you didn't notice at Florida there were lots of people who enjoyed your 1972. I suggest you relax and enjoy it too.

[Patrick H.]

Re: Original Paint

The polisher does sound like a great idea. I'll look for it today. Does using the clay bar remove paint? There are some very thin areas that I would be afraid of going right through. As it its now you can see the primer through the paint in some places.

No, doesn't remove paint, just embedded dirt.
You'd be amazed how much there will be even after washing the car.
FYI it's not needed to be done on a "daily driver" car more than once a year, so once a decade on your cars is fine.

[Jack H.]

Re: Original Paint

Since your objective is Star/Bowtie Award recognition, my advice is to do NOTHING except wash 'er down with soap and water...

Why? In Star/Bowtie judging, there is NO assessment of Condition. The only thing that matters is the Originality factor of the car and its components.

This is NOT a beauty contest. Yes, most of us have pride in terms of how our car will 'show' on the judging field... But, more often than not, trying to 'fix up' a Corvette for Star/Bowtie presentation results in accidental deterioration of this/that component's originality characteristics.

[Mike G.]

Re: Original Paint

Kevin,

you can do a great job polishing by hand. I use 3M perfecti-it II and a good quality rag to apply/rub in then a good supply of rags to wipe off then repeat with 3M polish for either dark or light colors. You can watch the shine come up as you work each section.

Rich

i use this 3m too but i use it with an orbital buffer. it will remove all the dead paint. then all you have to do is put on a coat of wax. i use zaino brothers show car polish and use nothing else. cant get it in stores. zaibobros.com this is by far the best i have ever used and lasts longer than anything else.

[Tom S.]

Re: Original Paint

I use clay bars and have great luck with them.Wash the car good with dawn or some other good liquid detergent. Dry it and clay bar it using detailing liquid as a lubricant.Then wax it with a good wax.I got the clay magic kit from autozone for about $13.00.I went to a class at the museum put on by C-Magic, it made a believer out of me. Tom Stanton #41491

[Dave S.]

Re: Original Paint

I use clay bars and have great luck with them.Wash the car good with dawn or some other good liquid detergent. Dry it and clay bar it using detailing liquid as a lubricant.Then wax it with a good wax.I got the clay magic kit from autozone for about $13.00.I went to a class at the museum put on by C-Magic, it made a believer out of me. Tom Stanton #41491

Kevin,
I agree with those who don't know why you want to polish that car. You are in a Bowtie situation so all that matters is you allow the car to be judged as original paint. Wash it and show it.
When I purchased my 71 original paint LT-1 which had been stored for 20 years prior to my ownership the hood was seriously faded for some reason. I decided to clay bar it as a last dutch effort to save it. It is such an amazing technique the hood came back to life completly and matches the rest of the car perfectly. As a result of that success I clay barred the rest of the car. The clay bar removes embedded dirt that has penetrated the paint. The hood stripes also look as new too.
At some point in the future I think a complete a clay bar would be worth considering.
Just get those 4 stars first. Once you go for the PV and 97+ them you can do more.

[Chris H.]

Re: Original Paint

Kevin,

I've had great success with the clay bar. It's amazing how much dirt it pulls out of the paint. Do a small patch and drag your fingers over the patch. You'll be shocked as to how smooth it is.

If you do go the polish route, I'd suggest you do a small experimental patch, say down low behind the rear wheel, in case you don't like the results.

[Kevin G.]

Re: Original Paint

Kevin - Don't worry about the lack of gloss on your 1972. Many "young folks," who weren't around in the "good old days," don't remember what real factory lacquer paint looks like. We all become too used to the BC/CC that has been used now for several deccades. The "good old days" factory paint jobs were sometimes pretty low gloss.

Leave it alone for a while. In case you didn't notice at Florida there were lots of people who enjoyed your 1972. I suggest you relax and enjoy it too.

Since your objective is Star/Bowtie Award recognition, my advice is to do NOTHING except wash 'er down with soap and water...

Why? In Star/Bowtie judging, there is NO assessment of Condition. The only thing that matters is the Originality factor of the car and its components.

This is NOT a beauty contest. Yes, most of us have pride in terms of how our car will 'show' on the judging field... But, more often than not, trying to 'fix up' a Corvette for Star/Bowtie presentation results in accidental deterioration of this/that component's originality characteristics.

Kevin,
I agree with those who don't know why you want to polish that car. You are in a Bowtie situation so all that matters is you allow the car to be judged as original paint. Wash it and show it.
When I purchased my 71 original paint LT-1 which had been stored for 20 years prior to my ownership the hood was seriously faded for some reason. I decided to clay bar it as a last dutch effort to save it. It is such an amazing technique the hood came back to life completly and matches the rest of the car perfectly. As a result of that success I clay barred the rest of the car. The clay bar removes embedded dirt that has penetrated the paint. The hood stripes also look as new too.
At some point in the future I think a complete a clay bar would be worth considering.
Just get those 4 stars first. Once you go for the PV and 97+ them you can do more.

The three of you have convinced me to leave well enough alone for now.

Terry, your words are very kind, I hope you were one of those who enjoyed seeing it! The car does bring me joy for sure, I'm still asking myself why me? How did I get so lucky to find such a rare car?

Jack, As always your advice is right on the mark and greatly appreciated! I must say well put as well.

Finally Mr. Strickland, Your continuous support and encouragement really keeps me going. I can't thank you enough! They say we come for the cars and stay for the people, well you are the people to me! The Duntov just might be in the future?

[Kevin G.]

Re: Original Paint

i use this 3m too but i use it with an orbital buffer. it will remove all the dead paint. then all you have to do is put on a coat of wax. i use zaino brothers show car polish and use nothing else. cant get it in stores. zaibobros.com this is by far the best i have ever used and lasts longer than anything else.

I am familiar with Zaino Products. Incredible results! Yes, it does last too!

I use clay bars and have great luck with them.Wash the car good with dawn or some other good liquid detergent. Dry it and clay bar it using detailing liquid as a lubricant.Then wax it with a good wax.I got the clay magic kit from autozone for about $13.00.I went to a class at the museum put on by C-Magic, it made a believer out of me. Tom Stanton #41491

Tom, thanks for the tip! I'm going to stock up on some of these clay bars, perhaps after the judging I'll give it a try.

Kevin,

I've had great success with the clay bar. It's amazing how much dirt it pulls out of the paint. Do a small patch and drag your fingers over the patch. You'll be shocked as to how smooth it is.

If you do go the polish route, I'd suggest you do a small experimental patch, say down low behind the rear wheel, in case you don't like the results.

Hi Chris, Why I posted this topic in the first place was seeing the 71 parked next to the 72. The original paint on the 71 is just beautiful, nice shine and very clean. The 72 well not really the same, very nice but dull and "dirty" (embedded). As Terry and Jack posted above it would be best to have the paint judged in it's present condition, without damaging it's chance for the star.
When I do give the clay bar a try I will start in a very inconspicuous spot!