Changing coil springs

[Henry S.]

I was checking the archives looking for links on changing out the coil springs on the 67 but having trouble locating anything. How tough a job is it? Is there a certain book or link that describes it.

The reason I'm wanting to change them is I've had problems with tire rubbing and the springs I have now are not correct. Thanks for any info.

Shooter

[Peter J.]

Re: Changing coil springs

I copied these from another forum as a guide to when I get around to changing out my springs. Of course I already bought an internal spring compressor

[Wayne P.]

Re: Changing coil springs

I agree with Peter. I used 1/2 inch all thread . Place a steel plate on bottom with a large washer and double nut. The rod goes up through the shock tower. Place a large washer and nut on the top as well. Very easy and a safe way to install and take apart. Good luck.
I will add this just found from Robert Pelland post.
Here is a much easier, and safer solution, to a springy problem. There is really no need for any store bought spring compressors, with their hook's and associated installation issues to do the job. All that is needed is a short lenght of 1/2" threaded rod between 24" to 30" in length, and a small 3" by 3" thick metal plate, with a hole drilled through the center to insert the rod.

Start be replacing the shock absorber with the section of 1/2" threaded rod. At the bottom, insert your metal plate through the rod, and then lock it in place with a few nuts on each side. Then while holding it in place so it doesen't fall to the garage floor, insert a couple of lubricated flat washers at the top of the rod, followed by another nut. Now all that is needed is to tighten down the nut at the top to compress the spring so that the spindle can be realeased.

You actually do not need much spring compression to do so. My trick is to remove the cotter pins and loosen both nuts on the spindle a few turns. Then watch the top A-arm very carefully as you start to tighten the nut at the top of the threaded rod. The minute the top A-arm starts to rise, enough pressure has been applied to the spring, and both castle nuts can be safely removed. Do the pickle fork thing to both joints, and then slowley release the pressure by loosning the nut at the top end of the rod so that the complete assemble can safely be lowered to the ground.

This method is much safer as keeps the spring captive by the threaded rod running it's complete length, and if anything goes wrong the spring will not flip out at 300mph, taking your head off in the process.

There are certainly other ways to do this job, but this method in the past has prouved to be the safest, least expensive, and fastest way to remove the springs.

Good luck with your choices
Bob

Robert Pelland

[Stephen L.]

Re: Changing coil springs

The threaded rod thru the shock tower is also my preference.

However, I highly recommend a threaded rod of at least grade 5 and preferably grade 8. The rods purchased at your local hardware store do not have the tensile strength for the forces you'll encounter. Just my $.02.........

[Steve L.]

Re: Changing coil springs

The rod works best, I used a B9 grade rod from Fastenal. Also a bearing at the top of the shock tower helps to reduce the cranking force. I used a bearing from a trailer wheel. It has some thrust load capacity and is cheap.

[James W.]

Re: Changing coil springs

I want to be clear on this. In the statement below, you say "At the bottom" do you mean at the bottom of the lower control arm or at the bottom of the frame and seen in one of the pictures posted in the above thread? The next sentence saying while holding it in place so it doesn't fall to the garage floor sound like you are placing the 3" x 3" steel plate at the bottom of the lower control arm. Am I correct?

Thanks,

James West

"At the bottom, insert your metal plate through the rod, and then lock it in place with a few nuts on each side. Then while holding it in place so it doesen't fall to the garage floor."

[Henry S.]

Re: Changing coil springs

Thanks for the replys and suggestions. Stephen, I hadn't thought about different grade for threaded rod, glad you mentioned it.

I didn't mention but the 67 is together and drivable. Plans are to do one side completely (tear down and reassemble) before I start the other side. How much tearing down am I in for? I realize the obvious.......like tire, hub, shock etc. I didn't do a frame off when I restored it but I know it would have been easier (just wished I noticed the springs weren't originals then).

Does anyone have experience changing them from a "drivable" vehicle and if so what suggestions do you have?

[Paul D.]

Re: Changing coil springs

Henry,
I did this on my C3 not long ago, and the threaded rod is the way to go. However, my engine was out of the car. The only concern I see is the amount of clearance needed in the engine compartment. I would remove a shock and try placing the rod through the upper shock mount hole to see if you have clearance problems. Sometimes looks can fool. The rod will need to be tilted in towards the engine a bit and protrudes through the shock tower quite a bit when compressed. You may be able to get by with removing alternator or AC compressor if you have one. Chip.

[Henry S.]

Re: Changing coil springs

Henry,
I did this on my C3 not long ago, and the threaded rod is the way to go. However, my engine was out of the car. The only concern I see is the amount of clearance needed in the engine compartment. I would remove a shock and try placing the rod through the upper shock mount hole to see if you have clearance problems. Sometimes looks can fool. The rod will need to be tilted in towards the engine a bit and protrudes through the shock tower quite a bit when compressed. You may be able to get by with removing alternator or AC compressor if you have one. Chip.

Thanks Chip,

I'm headed in to Fastenal tomorrow to get the rod Steve mentioned. I do have a lift with a jack tray so that may give me some room to work, I may have to raise and lower it a few times during the process. I knew there was a reason I didn't get a car with A/C I just didn't know the reason until now.

[Steve L.]

Re: Changing coil springs

Henry, don't forget some Grade 8 nuts to go with the rod.

BTW, when I did my coils for a small bock, the springs are longer than a BB. So I had to use a come-a-long for the first part of the compression to pull the lower part of the spring into the spring pocket, thereby putting a curve into the spring. You can't get enough angle to the rod to line up the top shock hole, spring tower, spring and bottom shock hole.

Also, make sure you have the spring end lined up with the inspection hole at the top of the tower. I used a small drill end to poke through the hole, then twisted the spring, until the spring end hit the drill.

Also, don't forget the safety chain.

[Joseph K.]

Re: Changing coil springs

Saftey first on this Job. Be Carefull there is alot of power in those springs. Good luck

[Steven G.]

Re: Changing coil springs

I agree, the threaded rod works great, using oil on nuts to compress spring will make job easier and will save the rod threads, using a bearing is a good method, but a couple of flat washers will work. Steve

[Henry S.]

Re: Changing coil springs

Thanks for all the great advice. As most have mentioned SAFETY is the key. I worked in a factory for 30 years and you can't stress safety enough.

I'm printing off the suggestions all have given and taking it "shopping" with me tomorrow so I don't forget anything (making sure i get the grade 8 hardware).

After I finish this project I'll be ordering a set of leaf springs from Eaton and doing the rear. FUN FUN!!