54 carb adjustment

[Brad H.]

Is there a good, better, best way to adjust the carbs so as to get the quickest pop when cranking it over seems my center carb has no drip while front and back drip a little till started then I see drip at center, would like to get adjusted so it fires off after six or eight cranks instead of, well untill battery losses power, what is most of your 54s popping at, have adjusted floats several times and they seem fine, since I have taken choke mech. out and cleaned and lubed seems to just start way too late, kind of takes the fun out of climbing in and hittin the road. Thank, Brad

[Cathy S.]

Re: 54 carb adjustment

Sounds like your timing needs to be adjusted and your carb needle and seat need to be changed to stop the dripping.

[Jim L.]

Re: 54 carb adjustment

Are you describing fuel dripping out of the carburetor inlets while you crank the engine? If that is the case, you are probably flooding the engine while you try to start it.

To avoid flooding the engine: Do NOT pump the accelerator. Instead, just pull out the choke and turn the key to the START position. When the engine fires, immediately push the choke most of the way in and let the engine stabilize. When the engine idle is stable, push the choke the remainder of the way in.

Jim

[Brad H.]

Re: 54 carb adjustment

Thanks guys, is it best to put these old cars on the scope at a shop to get all the best readings and settings, will this get these old tri carbs to work better? Thanks again, Brad.

[Jim L.]

Re: 54 carb adjustment

Thanks guys, is it best to put these old cars on the scope at a shop to get all the best readings and settings, will this get these old tri carbs to work better? Thanks again, Brad.

I guess you could do that, but it's not necessary. If the carburetors are properly rebuilt and correctly jetted, about all that's left to do is to be sure all three are synchronized. To do that, an old fashioned gadget called a Uni-Syn comes in handy and provides more accurate results than the method described in the old manuals:



Once the carburetors are synchronized, the rest is up to you to develop a starting technique that is in harmony with what the engine needs.

Jim

[Cathy S.]

Re: 54 carb adjustment

I could not agree more with Jim.

Greg

[Steven N.]

Re: 54 carb adjustment

The uni-sync works wonders............

[Brad H.]

Re: 54 carb adjustment

Is that an over the counter gadget at auto stores or something old school? and thanks everyone, Brad.

[Cathy S.]

Re: 54 carb adjustment

I got mine for under $10 on ebay.

[Jim L.]

Re: 54 carb adjustment

Is that an over the counter gadget at auto stores or something old school? and thanks everyone, Brad.

The one in the picture is marketed by Edelbrock. You can buy it from Jegs:

http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/4025/10002/-1

I doubt any modern FLAPS would carry it.

Jim

[Steven N.]

Re: 54 carb adjustment

Speed shops will carry it or will order for you. Also good battery;s will help turn it ove better...............

[Chuck G.]

Re: 54 carb adjustment

Those Uni Syn's have been around for eons. I had one with my 54. They work well. Used to use the Uni Syn with twin SU carbs on British cars.

I became a self styled carb expert.

I have 2 thoughts.

In addition to the normal "stuff", first, make sure that the carb linkage is synchronized.

Play with the shafts between the carbs, and make sure that when you're idling, all carbs are "equal". I used to use the throttle adjustment screw on the center carb only, and leave the ones on the end carbs "loose", i.e., not functional.

Second, play with the metering rods in all 3 carbs. You'll have to bend the tangs down to adjust the metering rods.

Take the "lids" off the carbs. Loosen the throttle adjustment screws all the way, and hand close each carb tightly.

With the throttle completely, tightly closed, push down on the diaphragm. That pushes the metering rod down.

Use a straight edge to check that the top of the metering rod loop is at least even with the top of the carb bowl. I used to tweak mine down a bit, thus decreasing the gas flow at idle.

They ALL run rich.

Chuck