Help Fuel pump install.

[Timothy B.]

Re: Help Fuel pump install.

With the bolt removed the hole is a source of unfiltered air to enter the engine as the PCV pulls air out.

[Michael J.]

Re: Help Fuel pump install.

I have always had problems with these things. The rod always slipped down too soon to get the pump on no matter what grease I tried. Then a mechanic gave me his tip. Get a Tampex tampon and put it in the hole on the block to block the rod up. The string will hang out the hole, put the pump on loosley and then pull the string and pull the tampon out with the rod seated on the pump. Sounds gross but it works.

[Jim T.]

Re: Help Fuel pump install.

Wayne -

Here's the location of the shipping bolt to remove/replace:

John you do real good posting showing the block with the hole showing exactly where a person can secure the fuel pump push rod that will help in fuel pump installation.
I was glad to read that this bolt hole location can seep oil with high engine RPM's.
My 1970 Corvette was bought new from the show room floor at a small Chevrolet dealership in TX. The engine failed within a hour after taking delivery because of an oiling problem. Did not even get 5 miles on my new Corvette's engine.
A replacement short block was installed. CEOA.
Many miles and many years later the fuel pump failed. Installing the new fuel pump I discovered that the short bolt to goes in the block that you have provided a picture of had never been installed. I do all my maintenance oil changes etc. and never discovered oil leaking from the missing bolt hole location.
With a 3:08 and turbo 400 my engine RPM's were below 2,300 driving the highways and higher RPM's did occur but never occured for sustained periods.

I did put a short bolt in with the fuel pump change and have read other posts about needing a bolt in this location to keep oil from leaking. I just never saw it. With factory air compressor I never noticed the bolt missing. I guess with consistant higher RPM's I would of noticed the leaking.

[David A.]

Re: Help Fuel pump install.

whoo............
a new tool for my garage
a tampon!!!
what would my wife think?
iowa

[Joe L.]

Re: Help Fuel pump install.

Michael sorry for the delay in response. Just got back from vacation to -12 deg c . I am one of those lucky ones with the block not drilled .

Wayne-----


Theoretically, GM did not need to drill and tap ANY of the front, lower bosses for ANY PRODUCTION engine after 1962. 1962 was the last year that these tappings were required for any application, Corvette being the last that used them. They would have needed to do it for SERVICE engines since there's no way they could know what application a SERVICE engine was going to be used for. However, SERVICE engines were a fairly minuscule portion of the engines that GM manufactured.

It's always surprised me that GM did drill and tap these forward bosses on the vast majority of small blocks for as long as they did (as a matter of fact, up to and including the present for SERVICE Gen I small blocks). There is a cost to them doing it. For the last 25 years, or so, they could have eliminated it for all engines with those few going into pre-1963 applications requiring the installer to drill and tap the holes.

[Stuart F.]

Re: Help Fuel pump install.

Several of the cars I owned in the 80's used that particular tapped hole to mount one bracket or another, including an 83 Camaro H.O. and I believe one of my wagons (80 or 86). Guess it was like if they had it, they would find a use for it. When I had the engine replaced in my 87, I asked the Chevy mechanic if he knew what that hole was originally used for and he did not (a youngan).

Stu Fox

[Stuart F.]

Re: Help Fuel pump install.

Tim;

I kind of doubt that much of any unfiltered air could be sucked in through that hole. The push rod has a pretty close tolerance fit and, when you add the film of oil, I can't see much going in through that chamber.

Stu Fox

[Joe L.]

Re: Help Fuel pump install.

John you do real good posting showing the block with the hole showing exactly where a person can secure the fuel pump push rod that will help in fuel pump installation.
I was glad to read that this bolt hole location can seep oil with high engine RPM's.
My 1970 Corvette was bought new from the show room floor at a small Chevrolet dealership in TX. The engine failed within a hour after taking delivery because of an oiling problem. Did not even get 5 miles on my new Corvette's engine.
A replacement short block was installed. CEOA.
Many miles and many years later the fuel pump failed. Installing the new fuel pump I discovered that the short bolt to goes in the block that you have provided a picture of had never been installed. I do all my maintenance oil changes etc. and never discovered oil leaking from the missing bolt hole location.
With a 3:08 and turbo 400 my engine RPM's were below 2,300 driving the highways and higher RPM's did occur but never occured for sustained periods.

I did put a short bolt in with the fuel pump change and have read other posts about needing a bolt in this location to keep oil from leaking. I just never saw it. With factory air compressor I never noticed the bolt missing. I guess with consistant higher RPM's I would of noticed the leaking.

Jim------


Generally speaking, SERVICE engines do not have a bolt installed in the upper right side tapping while all PRODUCTION engines I have seen do have the bolt installed. In your case, when the swap was made from the PRODUCTION to SERVICE engine, you "lost your bolt" because someone forgot to transfer or install one. Sometimes, the same thing occurs after engine rebuild.

[Stuart F.]

Re: Help Fuel pump install.

Perhaps someone should start a survey thread to see how many small block owners have a bolt installed. Granted, a lot of engines have been rebuilt or in some way massaged over the years, but I'd be willing to bet a vast majority will confirm that if they have a drilled and tapped hole in the right front of the block that goes into the pump cavity, it will not have a "dead" bolt there, i.e. one that holds nothing or for no other purpose than to plug the hole.

My 63 L-76 has never had a bolt in this hole, and I have used my spring loaded bolt (tool) in that hole to change the fuel pump at least twice that I can recall in the past 48 years. I have run the engine at sustained high rpm across the highways of Nevada and never had any recognized oil leak from that hole. Whatever leaked was probably in the form of vapor that joined with the rest of the oil fumes and vapor from the valve covers, timing case cover, and pan gaskets to leave a slight film on the engine that I had to gunk off once in a while. But, if it makes you feel better, by all means add a non-stock bolt into that hole and blame the Chevrolet Engineers for their oversight.

Stu Fox

[Timothy B.]

Re: Help Fuel pump install.

Stu,

I can report that my spare 327/300 never been apart has the bolt at that location. The block is dated J163 and a Flint 870 block, the bolt is a "M" headmark either 1/2" or 3/4" long with lock washer. I removed the bolt and installed it in my original engine that has been wrenched on ---- times..

[David A.]

Re: Help Fuel pump install.

and.........obviously, my 283 engine above
did not have a bolt in this area.

does anyone have a picture of the correct fuel lines
that are coming into the fuel pump?
that show the correct orientation of the 90 degree fitting
and the line that hooks into it?
all this for a '56 vette

also, why didn't they put in a shut off valve
so the fuel wouldn't leak out while changing pump etc.?

thanks
iowa

[David A.]

Re: Help Fuel pump install.

installed the pump w/o problems
i think i was lucky
that the engine happened to stop
near TDC
so the pump didn't need to be depressed much
i simply pushed the rod upward
then used a 1/8" bolt to gently hold it
and just fitted the pump up with a new gasket
went right in

now for those fuel lines!
iowa