'63 Steering Question
I have gotten lots of good information from the archives that leads me to a question or two. I have a '63 manual steering and I am trying to follow the procedures to index the steering wheel hub to the chisel mark at the top end of the column shaft. I started at the steering box which was replaced at some point. It appears to be a later model (not 63) as it has a flat milled side for indexing. When the wheels are straight it is in the 12 o'clock position and the pitman arm is forward. The rag joint also was replaced. When I put the upper split flange on to the lower portion of the column shaft it only goes one way so that the pinch bolt will seat properly. I rotate the flange to align wth the rag joint below. So far so good. At this point both the flat milled portion of the box input shaft and the lower portion of the column shaft are at 12 o'oclock. When I look at the chisel mark on the top of the column shaft it is a the 9 o'clock position, 90 degrees out. Is it possible that the rag joint and the flange are not a matched set since I know the box was replaced but I do not think the column shaft has been? If I just align the index mark on the steering hub to 12 o'clock will that not keep the turn signal working properly and the steeing wheel centered? At some point I hope to replace it all with the correct '63 parts. Thanks for any ideas!
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Re: '63 Steering Question
Jack, I think you are correct in that aligning the hub 12 o'clock everything will work fine.
Just make sure the steering box input shaft is centered with pitman arm in correct position and equal turns left and right. -
Re: '63 Steering Question
Thanks, I'll give it a go!!Comment
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Re: '63 Steering Question
Jack,
I had that same issue before I tore into restoring steering pieces last year. This is what I did to align it.
Before I took it apart I marked the box shaft to lower rag joint coupling position. Did all my resto work on the column, cluster etc. A few days later went to reassemble and realized the column shaft top index mark when at 12:00 never was properly set to center of steering.
The lower rag joint coupler has no flat, but the box shaft is grooved for the pinch bolt to allow the coupler to be relocated. So I simply set the top shaft index mark to 12:00, moved the shaft with rag joint attached rearward enough into the column(keeping at 12:00) to clear it from the box shaft, then pulled the shaft forward back onto the box shaft(which was at straight ahead position), reinstalled the pinch bolt and was done. In my case I had the column lower clamp bolt, spring, etc all loose so I could move the shaft back. You'll have to have it that way to for this to work.
RichComment
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Re: '63 Steering Question
The 1963 steering box shaft is indexed with a faint chisel (slash) mark to indicate the center. The lower rag joint is installed with the slit in line with this chisel mark. The position can be moved left/right but lined with the mark is the correct procedure.
The other end of the rag is installed to the column shaft so the tightening bolt passes through the flat, it's the only way the bolt will pass through and tighten. Inside, hub to shaft marks line everything so cancelling cam etc works.
The steering wheel is put center and tie rods are adjusted for straight ahead position.
If in the past the front wheels were aligned and the steering wheel not straight the fix is to re-index the hub, rag etc instead of correcting the real mistake. That's why it's important to be certain the wheel is straight before toe adjustment.Comment
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Re: '63 Steering Question
I do not have a '63 steering box as such it does have a flat. Also, the rag joint does have a flat to index it only one way on to the box input shaft. The coupler with the split is attached to the lower end of the column shaft. I have seen pictures in the archives that show '63 with the split flange attached to the box input shaft and the rag joint above it attached to the column shaft. The later ones show this reversed. I think the fact they used a later model box with a flat, they had to use a later model rag joint to attach to it. '63 is supposed to have the split flange attached to the steering box input shaft, correct? I can't do that with this configuration. Thanks !Comment
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Re: '63 Steering Question
Jack,
This is a picture of a 63 taken at Carlisle a few years ago showing the correct configuration of the steering coupler. Both ends have a slit opening, the only difference is the rag is rivited to the top side.
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Re: '63 Steering Question
Thanks for that. My rag joints looks nothing like that so I assume it is a newer style to fit the newer steering box. I just have to deal with it until I find the correct parts.Comment
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Re: '63 Steering Question
Tim;
A little off subject, but a comment on your picture - my, that's a lot of clutch adjustment there. Almost out to the end!
About to take my chance and motor on over to the winter meet. Talk is of T-storms tonight and light showers tomorrow am.
Stu FoxComment
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Re: '63 Steering Question
Here is a horror story on a 63 SWC I once owned. Bought it from a local fellow who was related to bubba and Rube Goldberg.
The 63 was an original engine 340HP with a fake fuel unit and fiberglass AC.
One day I took my young son for a fast ride down the Lincoln Hiway. When I came home I was turning the car around so I could back it into the garage. All at once the steering wheel was just spinning around and not doing a thing. Had zero resistance and was not turning the wheels.
I was in shock as if this would have happened moments before I probably wouldn't be writing this crazy post.
Opened the hood and found out that the special bolt that holds the bare steering shaft into the rag joint had come loose.
Seems the previous retarded owner had taken this bolt and ground a big flat on it so that he could align the steering wheel like Jack is trying to do. On second though he didn't just grind a flat he even ground the threaded part of the bolt 1/2 flat. Whew!!!!
JDLast edited by John D.; January 21, 2010, 10:36 AM.Comment
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Re: '63 Steering Question
Tim is correct. It all has to begin at the steering gear/coupler. You work out from there.
The steering gear must be cantered in it's travel (high spot) before any other adjustments can be made, no matter where the front wheels or steering wheel are pointing.
The steering gear arrives on the St Louis assy line with the coupler already installed/indexed. The hash mark (12:00) at the end of the gear shaft is aligned with the split in the coupler.
If you have the gear/coupler right, the steering column shaft can only be installed in one clock position. The steering wheel hub and upper steering column shaft are also marked and are to be indexed.
When built in this way, the marks on the steering gear shaft, steering column shaft and steering wheel hub will all be at the 12:00 o'clock position.
The front wheel toe setting should then be adjusted to match the steering wheel position. NOT the other way around.
Many alignment shops remove/reposition the steering wheel/hub to correct the position instead of readjusting the tie rod sleeves. That's NOT the correct way to do it.Comment
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Re: '63 Steering Question
Just one more question and I'll leave this dead horse alone. When I put the flat side of the steering column shaft in the 12 o'clock position (straight up) and go inside, the chisel mark on the upper end of the steering column shaft is in the 9 o'clock position. Does that seem odd???
Thanks again.Comment
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Re: '63 Steering Question
Thank you, that would be the case. I am convinced I have a 'mixed bag' of steering box and associated rag joint parts.Comment
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Re: '63 Steering Question
Does anyone know when the steering stabalizer shock ASM actually discontinued in production? It showes a canceled page in the AIM 9 A3 with an effective date of April 20 1968. So would a March 8 car still have it, as mine doe not, and I have seen other #ed cars prior to the cnx date also without the shock? I didn't see anything on the threads on this timing issue.
DaleComment
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