69 removable crossmember finishes
I painted the frame for my 69 yesterday with 2 coats of DP90 epoxy primer and 2 coats of GM 1050104 restoration paint over a sand blasted surface. Which appears fairly flat with a slight sheen. My question is should the gas tank, differential, core support removable crossmembers and front frame extensions be painted with the 1050104 or something with a little more shine. It appears that these parts were not supplied with the frame . Were they supplied by another supplier using a different paint? I have a pair of NOS frame extensions that have a little more shine than the 1050104 gives. Any help is appreciated.
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Re: 69 removable crossmember finishes
Wow...I had to check the date on this thread to make sure this one hadn't popped back up from the nineties.
Where on earth did you find any 1050104 or DP90 these days? Maybe you meant DP90LF, or you've been storing this paint a looooong time.
No, you are correct; those parts did not come with the frame. They're perfect just like you have them...don't change anything. My only concern is that sometimes common sandblasting will leave a texture that cannot be filled. But, you did apply four coats when two would have been good...you probably filled any texture and/or factory stamps.
Last edited by Chuck S.; January 11, 2010, 05:30 PM. -
Re: 69 removable crossmember finishes
Chuck, You are right it is DP90LF . It really does work good. The crossmembers have also been blasted and are still raw . Should they have more gloss than the 1050104? I found a dealer that had 3 gallons of the 1050104 so I bought them about a year ago. Wasn't sure how much it would take . Thanks for the helpComment
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Re: 69 removable crossmember finishes
Chuck------Wow...I had to check the date on this thread to make sure this one hadn't popped back up from the nineties.
Where on earth did you find any 1050104 or DP90 these days? Maybe you meant DP90LF, or you've been storing this paint a looooong time.
No, you are correct; those parts did not come with the frame. They're perfect just like you have them...don't change anything. My only concern is that sometimes common sandblasting will leave a texture that cannot be filled. But, you did apply four coats when two would have been good...you probably filled any texture and/or factory stamps.
The GM #1050104 has been available again in reproduction for over a year. It still is only supplied in 1 gallon cans, though, unless something has changed.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Re: 69 removable crossmember finishes
Brad------
The "paint" on a 1969 Corvette frame was not paint----it was an asphaltic coating that was actually a very dark brown. I removed most of it from my original owner 1969's frame using rags with paint thinner. There's no way that a true paint could have been wiped off with rags with paint thinner, especially as easy as it came off. However, most folks don't use the asphaltic coating and use paint, instead (including me).
The removable crossmembers (front and differential) as well as the gas tank support were painted with a paint that was either 1050104 or something close to it. Same for the front frame horn extensions and the radiator support.In Appreciation of John HinckleyComment
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Re: 69 removable crossmember finishes
All those parts, including the radiator support, were dipped and not sprayed...even three gallons (that's enough for about three restorations) won't be enough to dip those parts simply because you don't have a properly shaped vessel.
The frame paint, at least on my frame, was slightly flatter than 1050104, which has only an eggshell gloss. As you said, it is very forgiving and easy to spray, and comes out looking beautiful. GM black primer (1050104) is correct for those parts. I'm not surprised you have some "NOS" parts with higher gloss. I've seen that before...I would not use service parts as a reference for paint gloss level of original production parts. JMHO.Comment
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Re: 69 removable crossmember finishes
If you chose to dip the parts Chuck mentioned -- I have been told that the GM 1050104 (at least the older formula) will float on water. So you don't need a whole large vat of the stuff, you only need a large enough container to submerge the part and then enough paint to float on top. I must add I have never used this method personally, so I can't vouch for the accuracy of what I have been told. Use at your own risk.TerryComment
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