Pertronix Ignitor II wiring 427 390HP
Does my pink solenoid wire, have to have ballast resistance connection? thanks DUTCH
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Re: Pertronix Ignitor II wiring 427 390HP
Not sure what type of ballast resistor you have on yours, but with the Pertronix II you want a full 12 Volt input. I left my resistor in place for appearance sake, and jumpered it (by-passed) with a HD black wire around the back. You have to look close to see it.
Stu Fox -
Re: Pertronix Ignitor II wiring 427 390HP
I have the rectangular block type with a connection on the top that has a pink wire connected to the solenoid, and has a connection at the bottom, where the ignition wire is connected. I do not know whether I should make all my Pertronix connections at the bottom of the ballast and leave the pink wire, that goes to the solenoid on top, because it may need that resistor. That pertronix diagram that everyone has, does not show anything about the pink wire that is connected to the solenoid. That pink wire comes from the top of the ballast, goes to the coil ,it is connected with another pink wire at the coil, that goes to the solenoid. can I REMOVE THE SOLENOID WIRE FROM THE BALLAST? DUTCHComment
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Re: Pertronix Ignitor II wiring 427 390HP
I have the rectangular block type with a connection on the top that has a pink wire connected to the solenoid, and has a connection at the bottom, where the ignition wire is connected. I do not know whether I should make all my Pertronix connections at the bottom of the ballast and leave the pink wire, that goes to the solenoid on top, because it may need that resistor. That pertronix diagram that everyone has, does not show anything about the pink wire that is connected to the solenoid. That pink wire comes from the top of the ballast, goes to the coil ,it is connected with another pink wire at the coil, that goes to the solenoid. can I REMOVE THE SOLENOID WIRE FROM THE BALLAST? DUTCH
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Re: Pertronix Ignitor II wiring 427 390HP
Harry,
Since I am too lazy to go dig out a wiring diagram for a C2, you may want to wait for a more knowledgeable person to confirm, but I think the pink wire going from the ballast to the solenoid actually provides the power to the ballast. The other pink wire provides full voltage to the coil during starting only. The ballast is required to keep the points from burning up when the motor is running hours on end. Later vehicles used a resister wire to the coil instead of the firewall mounted ballast resister. Chip.Comment
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Re: Pertronix Ignitor II wiring 427 390HP
Harry;
I think you are trying to read into the Petronix instructions more than there is. The only time you change any existing wiring is to ensure you are connecting the Petronix "Red Wire" to a full 12 volt source, i.e. upstream of the ballast resistor or resistance wire as shown in Figure 2. Otherwise, leave the ballast wire connections as they are. The need for the resistor in the first place is for engines equipped with Ignition Points. When you position your switch to "Start", you by-pass the resistor to get a full 12 volts for starting. When you release the switch back to the "On" position, you include the resistor in the circuit to drop the voltage to about 8 volts. This was done to allow for longer point life.
But now, with the Petronix II system, you want the full 12 volts for starting and running (Start and On switch positions).
Even if you do eliminate the resistor as they note as an option, you still must splice those wires that were connected to either end of the resistor back together to complete the ignition starting circuit.
That is why I noted in my last post, I wanted to keep my resistor in place to look original, but I no longer needed it's function to reduce the voltage during running. Therefore, I jumpered around it so that, in effect, I was seeing 12 volts input and 12 volts output (not 8 volts), and I was able to use all the original wiring both up stream of the resistor and down stream. I then connected the Petronix II wiring at the coil, exactly as shown in Figure 1 (Red to + and Black to -).
Stu FoxComment
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Re: Pertronix Ignitor II wiring 427 390HP
Stu,
Can the original Corvette coil handle the full 12 volts all the time? Is the heat build up a problem?Comment
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Re: Pertronix Ignitor II wiring 427 390HP
No, it can't, and yes, it is.
The Pertronix module feed (red wire) wants a full 12 volts all the time - get that from the ignition switch side of the ballast resistor (where the pink wire coming through the firewall connects - at the bottom).
If you have a stock-type coil, it wants resistor-reduced voltage, from the other (top) end of the ballast resistor; continuous 12 volts will fry a stock-type coil.
If using an aftermarket coil (like the Pertronix Flamethrower), some of them want a full 12 volts - check with the manufacturer to see if they're designed for 12 volts or resistor-reduced 7-8 volts and connect accordingly.
The other pink wire crimped to the spade on the coil (+) terminal goes to the small "R" terminal on the starter solenoid, and provides a full 12 volts to the coil only when cranking. Leave it there, or you won't have any power to the coil when cranking.Comment
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Re: Pertronix Ignitor II wiring 427 390HP
Whether the original coil can handle a full 12 volts all the time is a question for someone more knowledgeable about automotive electical devices than I. I don't know from practical experience, but Petronix information claims their system can be used with any coil rated at 0.6 Ohms or greater. The specs on the standard coil used on my 63 is rated at 1.02 to 1.13 Ohms, which puts it in the "greater" catagory. They also note that to get optimum performance from their II system, they recommend using their Flame-Thrower II coil which is rated at 0.6 Ohms (45,000 Volts) - or any other Low Resistance coil.
Stu FoxComment
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Re: Pertronix Ignitor II wiring 427 390HP
Thanks John for checking in on this one. Harry never said what coil he was going to use, but he was contemplating a disconnect of his "Pink" wires which I thought needed addressing first. If he desires to retain his original coil, he might better go back to the original Petronix unit instead of the II. I have one of those he can have. The only reason I can think of to use one of those to maintain a more complete stock external appearance. I cheated a little with mine by jumpering around my resistor, as noted.
Stu FoxComment
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Re: Pertronix Ignitor II wiring 427 390HP
I have the flamethrower II coil. After all my research, here is how I hooked up my Ignitor II. I left my pink solenoid wire connected to the top of the ballast where it always was connected.I removed the 2 pink wires that were connected to the positive side of the coil, and just taped them together, and put them out of the way, since they were all just part of the solenoid wire,that goes to the top of the ballast. At the bottom connection of the ballast I have connected, the ignition wire, the Pertronix red wire from the module, and the jumper wire that goes back to the flamethrower II coil positive side. And the black wire from the module goes to the negative connection of the coil. This seems to make the most sence to me. This way the pertronix and the flamethrower are always getting 12 volts. thanks for your patience, DUTCHComment
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Re: Pertronix Ignitor II wiring 427 390HP
Harry, I am getting confused reading this post..
The two pink wires you removed from the coil+ will have power when you are cranking the motor because one of them comes from the starter solenoid and gets 12v when the soleniod is engaged to turn the starter. This wire sends power to coil+ when cranking and you have not allowed for that.
Consider using the two pink wires at the coil+ (just like stock) and disregard the jumper you installed going to the flamthrower coil. Just hook the two pink wires at the ballast, (one from ignition switch, one that goes to coil+) to the same terminal on the ballast along with the red wire from the module.
These wires together will provide 12v for the coil and module and you will still have your 12v when cranking starter because you used the two pinks at the coil+.Comment
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Re: Pertronix Ignitor II wiring 427 390HP
Tim;
Thanks for jumping in as well. I too was becoming confused. I believe my solution was by far the easiest way to handle the connection w/o any splices or significant rewiring, but apparently Harry didn't grasp that. As their (Petronix) wiring diagram shows, you merely connect both of their wires at the coil (black - and red +), then just jumper the ballast resistor. That ensures you are getting 12 volts input at the coil and, if done well, retains the stock asthetic appearance. As the resistor is mounted in such a way that it protrudes over the recessed area in the fire wall, there is space behind it. I used a HD black wire and wrapped it around behind the resistor. You have to look close to even notice it.
Oh well, to each his own devices.
Stu FoxComment
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Re: Pertronix Ignitor II wiring 427 390HP
My car is performing as it should, I am getting 12 volts at the flamethrower coil, and 12 volts at the pertronix module, and 12 volts at the solenoid. John Hinckleys post is correct, as I hooked every thing on the ignition side of the ballast providing the constant 12 volts that are needed. The only connection that I made different from the number 3 diagram, was to connect the pink wire that goes to the solenoid, to the top of the ballast resistor, all by itself because, it only needs 12 volts at cranking. Doesn"t this make sence? I am not worried about the wires showing. My vette runs great! HARRYComment
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