Does anyone know what the correct finish/plating is for the lower dash reinforcement channel in C1s? This is the steel channel that runs the width of the dash inside the bottom lip. It must be conductive as it carries ground current. My 57 is solid rust. I hate rust. -Dan-
57 Plating/Finish
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Re: 57 Plating/Finish
Roy,
Did not mean to confuse you - the thumbnail you posted is the gauge mounting plate. That is zinc or cad - mine looks pretty good yet. I cleaned it up some. The channel piece I am talking about actually captures the gauge plate underneath the tach and runs the width of the dash. I would not think this piece would be raw steel, especially seeing how it is carrying ground current. But then again maybe it is, and would explain why mine is so rusty. -Dan-- Top
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Re: 57 Plating/Finish
Roy,
Did not mean to confuse you - the thumbnail you posted is the gauge mounting plate. That is zinc or cad - mine looks pretty good yet. I cleaned it up some. The channel piece I am talking about actually captures the gauge plate underneath the tach and runs the width of the dash. I would not think this piece would be raw steel, especially seeing how it is carrying ground current. But then again maybe it is, and would explain why mine is so rusty. -Dan-- Top
Comment
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Re: 57 Plating/Finish
Does anyone know what the correct finish/plating is for the lower dash reinforcement channel in C1s? This is the steel channel that runs the width of the dash inside the bottom lip. It must be conductive as it carries ground current. My 57 is solid rust. I hate rust. -Dan-- Top
Comment
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Re: 57 Plating/Finish
Roy,
Did not mean to confuse you - the thumbnail you posted is the gauge mounting plate. That is zinc or cad - mine looks pretty good yet. I cleaned it up some. The channel piece I am talking about actually captures the gauge plate underneath the tach and runs the width of the dash. I would not think this piece would be raw steel, especially seeing how it is carrying ground current. But then again maybe it is, and would explain why mine is so rusty. -Dan-- Top
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Re: 57 Plating/Finish
John, that was what I was afraid you were going to say. It had all earmarks of being raw. Dave, it really is not bad to get out. 5 rivets (3/16) and several bolts and it will come right out. I blasted it and sprayed it. Now, my car is a driver, so keeping it correct is not the end of the world, but I am trying to as best I can. What I did after blasting is etched and zinc coated it with the Eastwood POR15 stuff. Then I spray painted it with Rust-oleum cold galvanizing compound. This stuff looks a little like cad or zinc (a judge would certinally not like it though). The beauty of it is it is 93% zinc when cured. This not only provides rust protection but it is also electrically conductive which is very important as this piece carries several amps of ground current. I made sure of this first on another part. DVM leads will punch through it and conduct quite well. As an alternative I could suggest a couple of other things you might do to try and keep it more orginal. Eastwood has a paint that mimics the look of raw metal (somewhat). Mask off the holes that carry current first. Another approach after cleaning might be to mask and spray it with clear coat. The rivets are not bad to get out. Centerpunch in the middle of the head as best as you can (its fun laying under the dash with a drill motor when you are 68 years old). It is a little harder to set the new rivets (CC has them). Takes 2 people and make yourself a setting tool. The ground current in this thing is the windshield wiper motor through the cowl vent bracket, gauge instrument lights, power window return - if so equiped, and other stuff too. Remember - this is fun! -Dan-- Top
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