A-Arm Bushing Removal

[David W.]

Hi Guys,

I am in the process of replacing my control arm bushings. The upper (short) arm bushings came out fairly easy but the lower (long arm) busings are not being very cooperative.
I have read a few past posts regarding the use of an air chisel around the flange and walking the bushing out. I am hoping someone has a few pics of this technique. Also maybe a few pics installing the new upper and lower bushings with improvised tools. I don't know anyone with the tools used in the factory service manual.

Thanks, David

[David W.]

Re: A-Arm Bushing Removal

Sorry. Forgot to mention my question regarding A-Arm bushings was for a C3...1980.

Thanks, David

[Bill C.]

Re: A-Arm Bushing Removal

I would suggest taking the arms to a machine shop and having them carefully pressed out and then pressed back in.

If you beat them/chisel them out, you stand the risk of bending an ear or even worse, cracking one.

In all fairness - pressing is not exempt from these issues - but a qualified machine shop that has someone who knows to operate a press correctly - should not have these issues.

My 2 cents ---

[Gary R.]

Re: A-Arm Bushing Removal

I use the air tool method,I cut the rubber off first. I made up tubes from EMT to fit in between the inner arms to support them when I install the new bushings. Usually I don't press them,once cleaned and lubed they go in using a large 3/4 dr socket to support and drive the bushing.

[David W.]

Re: A-Arm Bushing Removal

Thanks Gary. I am "attempting" the air chisel method. Wow! These things are not giving up without a fight. I have 1 that is trying to come out but I think there is enough corrosion on the shaft and bushing that it is making it really, really tough.
I shall keep hammering away.

Thanks, David

[Wayne P.]

Re: A-Arm Bushing Removal

David how did you make out. I had to torch mine. Getting them powder coated now. Regards.

[David W.]

Re: A-Arm Bushing Removal

Wayne,

Still fighting them! Have sprayed with PB Blaster and Kroil again. They are coming away from the arm itself but seem to be stuck to the shaft.
My next try is heat.

Regards, David

[Tracy C.]

Re: A-Arm Bushing Removal

David,

You are correct in that the shaft will rust and stick to the inner bushing. You can burn the rubber out as suggested, but it really stinks...for a long time. I would recommend you drill out as much of the rubber as you can with a 1/8" bit. Several holes thru the rubber around the perimeter and between the inner and outer metal bushing will allow the outer shell to come off with your impact chisel.

good luck,
tc

[David W.]

Re: A-Arm Bushing Removal

Tracy thanks for the tip. I will remove the rubber with the drill bit before trying again. These things are almost as bad as removing the differential carrier bushings! Maybe worse!

Regards, David

[Harmon C.]

Re: A-Arm Bushing Removal

When all you have left is the sleeve I have put a hacksaw blade through the sleeve and install it on the hacksaw frame and cut through the metal sleeve only and also cut the lip and the sleeve will fall out. You won't bend anything by using this method.

[David W.]

Re: A-Arm Bushing Removal

Thanks Lyle. I am going to try again today. I sprayed them down with penetrating oil over the weekend. Am going to remove all rubber before attempting to remove the sleeves again.

Regards, David

[Gary R.]

Re: A-Arm Bushing Removal

I use a hole saw on the rubber first.

[Mike Z.]

Re: A-Arm Bushing Removal

David-
Pressing out the old bushing with the proper adaptors is the only way to insure no damage to the shaft and/or arm itself by spreading the ears. If you think the removal process is challenging, wait till you go to install the new bushings. The install requires adaptors that prevent bending the arm and reducing the width at the shaft, between the two ears and the width between the two sides of each ear, leaving an improper install-most presses can apply 10 tons or more pressure, which can easily bend and distort the arm. Ken Tools has the proper tools (check NAPA) and the GM shop manual has the tool GM part numbers-which are long discontinued, but at least you can see a picture of them. I made my own after I managed to destroy an arm on re-install the first time. Please read your shop manual throughly (if you don't have one, I strongly recommend buying one)-this proceedure is not for the inexperienced or those lacking proper tools and equipment-best left to a suspension shop or someone that can complete the job safely and properly-the price is not worth the hassle.
Mike Zamora
#12455

[Steve L.]

Re: A-Arm Bushing Removal

I tired all the different ways of removing the rubber, including the drill method. I kept breaking drills and the drill would wander into existing holes.
Burning was a disaster as well, It just sinks up the place. You can't get enough heat down the "hole" to do rubber damage with a propane torch. I didn't try acetyline since I didn't want to damage the A arm.

What worked the best and only took a few minutes was a hole saw. I think it was 1 1/8 " dia. I my opinion, this works the best.

Once the rubber is out of the way, the shaft can move around.

I took out the rear bushing first. I used the shaft itself on a press. There is a ridge on the shaft that can push against the bushing and you can also make a small metal "tab" with a single hole that you can bolt to the rear shaft hole. Then you can use this to press against the bushing. I just worked this around the bushing and walked the rear bushing out.

Once the rear bushing is out, the whole shaft can be taken out.

This leave the front bushing empty. You can then sawzal the front bushing into pieces being careful not to damage the a-arm. Or you can again use the shaft to push out the front bushing with a press.

The a-arms are very easy to bend and also distort. The 4 sheet metal bushing hole centerlines need to stay in alignment or else when you re-assembly the shaft will bind.

Getting the new bushing in place is just as hard or even harder.
You need a brace between the front and back. If I did it again, I would also brace between the the bushing holes for a total of 3 braces.

Don't believe the cool the new bushing in the freezer trick. By the time you get it out of the freezer and everything lined up in the press, the bushing will be at room temperature.

I also bevelled the insertion edge of the new bushing a tiny bit with a file, since I found that the new bushing would tend to gouge out the a-arm material and bind up insertion.

You also need a cylinder of some sort to press the bushing in so you are not pushing against rubber.

The bushings need to be seated properly with no a-arm distortion or the shaft will not rotate easily plus the bushing bolt may not have enough thread to lock down the bushing once the a-arm is installed on the frame.

So far, this is the worst job of encountered so far, and I've rebuilt my own trailing arms(thanks to Gerry), diff. seals, re-welded about 30% of my frame with new pieces, re-intalled all the underbody brackets, replaced the rocker channels with a donor--- all these tasks took a lot of effort. The bushings were the worst.

[Bill M.]

Re: A-Arm Bushing Removal

I used MAPP gas to burn out the rubber (outdoors) and a hacksaw to slit the outer sleeve.