keeping my 65 engine warm this winter

[Mike M.]

Re: keeping my 65 engine warm this winter

I always change my oil in the spring. I start it up pull it off the bag and bring it back in the garage after it warms up a bit. Change the oil and grease it and take it for a drive. I don't think it really matters fall or spring oil change.

[Michael W.]

Re: keeping my 65 engine warm this winter

Mike,

You're better off changing it in the fall. Old oil can be acidic, don't want that in your crankcase.

[Valeria H.]

Re: keeping my 65 engine warm this winter

what is a dessicant???

Tom, You can buy bags of dessicant from any auto parts suppliers. I keep them in the car when I am not driving it during spring summer and winter.
I am going to tuck my car into a car capsule that regulates the humidity and circulates the air. I do not think I can add a battery tender under this condition. I have the capsule but have not used it yet. Does anyone have any experience with one?
It was good to learn that Sams club has a battery tender for less than $30 from another thread.
Valeria

[Michael W.]

Re: keeping my 65 engine warm this winter

I am going to tuck my car into a car capsule that regulates the humidity and circulates the air.

Could you provide a link to the model please- I'm not aware of any car capsules with dehumidifiers.

[Valeria H.]

Re: keeping my 65 engine warm this winter

Could you provide a link to the model please- I'm not aware of any car capsules with dehumidifiers.

Michael, It is listed in the Eckler's C1 catalog www.Ecklers.com
as item number 41592 for $400. Looking at the catalog description it provides filtered condensation free air circulating and in actuallity is not a dehumidifier that should provide a rust and mildew free environment.
Sorry if I misled you. Would there be any harm in placing the bags of dessicant in the car under those conditions?
Valeria

[Michael W.]

Re: keeping my 65 engine warm this winter

My opinion is these car capsules are a waste of money unless the goal is to avoid physical damage to car from impact or possibly infestation by vermin.
Blowing air at an object does not reduce humidity levels or avoid condensation.

If you have high enough humidity in your garage that corrosion and condensation are an issue, a few desiccant bags won't be of much help.

[Mike M.]

Re: keeping my 65 engine warm this winter

I still can't see why the acidic then would matter. The oil only has maybe 1000 miles on it. These cars used to go a lot longer then that with oils that were not as good as the ones today. I still don't think its a big deal and I'm doing big harm to my engine.

[Michael W.]

Re: keeping my 65 engine warm this winter

If the oil has only got 1K miles on it, why change it at all?

[Joe C.]

Re: keeping my 65 engine warm this winter

Michael, It is listed in the Eckler's C1 catalog www.Ecklers.com
as item number 41592 for $400. Looking at the catalog description it provides filtered condensation free air circulating and in actuallity is not a dehumidifier that should provide a rust and mildew free environment.
Sorry if I misled you. Would there be any harm in placing the bags of dessicant in the car under those conditions?
Valeria

"condensation free air" is a meaningless term.


Here's a link to the manufacturer:

http://www.carcapsule.com/

Here's a direct quote from their misleading web ad:

"At the heart of the CarCapsule and BikeCapsule is a 12-volt, high-pressure fan. It provides continuous airflow to keep your vehicle or motorcycle dry. Temperature inside the bubble remains constant and consistent with outside air. The evaporative storage system keeps your vehicle or motorcycle dry because the air changes inside the bubble 3 or 4 times every hour. This prevents any moisture from condensing on your vehicle or motorcycle. "

This text will sucker punch most people into believing that the mechanism contains dehumidifying equipment. The fact is, that if the relative humidity is 100 per cent inside your garage, then it provides a continuous stream of this saturated air into the "protective capsule". Somebody explain to me just WTF "evaporative storage system" means? If the air is moving, constantly, then condensation will not form. If dessicant is introduced into a car capsule, it will quickly become saturated.

[Joe C.]

Re: keeping my 65 engine warm this winter

My opinion is these car capsules are a waste of money unless the goal is to avoid physical damage to car from impact or possibly infestation by vermin.
Blowing air at an object does not reduce humidity levels or avoid condensation.

If you have high enough humidity in your garage that corrosion and condensation are an issue, a few desiccant bags won't be of much help.

Mike,

Let's say the garage has been at 25 degrees Fahrenheit all night, with the door tightly closed (a tightly sealed garage is actually MORE detrimental than a garage with a high infiltration rate once the overhead door is opened). The car capsule has been churning away all night, circulating that 25 degree, dry air around your prized possession, whose surface temperature is also 25 degrees Fahrenheit.The weather overnight has rapidly changed, so that by 10 AM, the outside temp is 55 degrees, and the relative humidity is 90 per cent. You open the door, and that warm, moist air is picked up by the car capsule's inlet duct and circulated around your ice cold trailer queen. Condensation will immediately form on every surface (including those that cannot be seen, of course). The circulating air will cause the moisture to evaporate on areas exposed to the air circulation, BUT NOT ON THE MOST IMPORTANT SURFACES OF THE CAR, PROBABLY MORE THAN EIGHTY PER CENT, WHICH CANNOT BE SEEN.

That is my argument against the circulating air style "car capsule". My argument against the sealed/dessicant type appears in a prior post.

[Joe C.]

Re: keeping my 65 engine warm this winter

I still can't see why the acidic then would matter. The oil only has maybe 1000 miles on it. These cars used to go a lot longer then that with oils that were not as good as the ones today. I still don't think its a big deal and I'm doing big harm to my engine.

I always change my oil in the spring. I start it up pull it off the bag and bring it back in the garage after it warms up a bit. Change the oil and grease it and take it for a drive. I don't think it really matters fall or spring oil change.

H2SO4 is formed when the combustion byproducts (blowby) go into solution with the condensate in the crankcase. Installing fresh oil and not running the engine prevents new acid formation in the fresh oil.

If you're gonna drink the "change the oil every year" Kool Aid, then it would make sense to get the acid out in the fall, rather than have it remain in the crankcase all winter..................

[Michael W.]

Re: keeping my 65 engine warm this winter

Mike,
..................

That is my argument against the circulating air style "car capsule". My argument against the sealed/dessicant type appears in a prior post.

Pretty schmart for a guy that stays in a Holiday Inn every night. I won't speculate whether you git your smartz from your father Mike or your other father Matt. It appears that we agree yet once again.

This is why I always recommend that a car be kept undisturbed in a low humidity, stable environment.

[Jim D.]

Re: keeping my 65 engine warm this winter

H2SO4 is formed when the combustion byproducts (blowby) go into solution with the condensate in the crankcase. Installing fresh oil and not running the engine prevents new acid formation in the fresh oil.

If you're gonna drink the "change the oil every year" Kool Aid, then it would make sense to get the acid out in the fall, rather than have it remain in the crankcase all winter..................

OR, make sure that the last time you drive your car, you get the oil nice and hot and that will cook off all that nasty H2SO4 and it will be a moot point.

[Duke W.]

Re: keeping my 65 engine warm this winter

I always change my oil in the spring. I start it up pull it off the bag and bring it back in the garage after it warms up a bit. Change the oil and grease it and take it for a drive. I don't think it really matters fall or spring oil change.

Doesn't matter?! If you change the oil before winter storage the engine is internally coated with fresh, clean oil.

If you leave used oil in over the winter everything is coated with dirty, and possibly contaminated oil all winter, and there is a much greater chance of corrosion damage.

EXCEPTION: If the engine is tight and not run hard - evidenced by oil that has not noticeably darkened, and the car was only driven a few hundred miles since the last oil change - I think it's okay to go two years on C-category oil.

Duke

[Jim D.]

Re: keeping my 65 engine warm this winter

I think it's okay to go two years on C-category oil.

Duke

I hope you're right. I've been doing it for many, many years.