Oringinal paint or Base and clear coat?

[Scott S.]

Re: Oringinal paint or Base and clear coat?

Well genlemen I really apreciate all the feedback, I've decided this car is for me to drive and rally around with the local colletor clubs and biker clubs as time allows. Enjoy the car for what it was made to do; chase woman, drink beer and have good ol american fun . I'm glad I have and understanding wife ; also take it to shows and accept what they judge it to be. But I will judge for myself; the corvette as it is intended to enjoy. The body shop is going to take great care of her with there many years of experience and artistic finish. They will be stripping it all the way down and then check and seal any cracks and seal the fiberglass with a non shrink fiberglass sealer, do some minor body work, prime it, hand block sand, prime again. Then paint 5 coats of lacquer, sand, 5 more coats sand, and then 5 more coats to finish; all for $5800.00. From what I see out there I'm getting a $20,000 paint job. I will be there throughout the process to ensure a great job. I've checked references on this local shop and around here you don't want to do bad work or you'll have no work; and then end up being part of Obamas unemployment plan. Thanks Again hope to see some of you at some events.

Hi Robert,

It sounds like a great paint job, but $5,800 seems low for what you're describing, especially if you've priced the same work at $20K elsewhere. It's easy to pay too much

[Rick S.]

Re: Original paint or Base and clear coat?

Hi Robert,

It sounds like a great paint job, but $5,800 seems low for what you're describing, especially if you've priced the same work at $20K elsewhere. It's easy to pay too much

I agree, I would be very cautious as the work moves along. As a good friend, who has had many restorations done, once told me "The worst call you can get from your restorer is, WE HAVE A PROBLEM".

[Robert K.]

Re: Oringinal paint or Base and clear coat?

No sorry for the confusion; but I never had a proposal for $20,000 only in some of the responses from other parts of the country was information I received on this thread. I guess it depends where you live on how much you pay.

[Chuck G.]

Re: Oringinal paint or Base and clear coat?

Robert, for what it's worth, I went through the same dilemma several years ago. Still had the original Riverside Red paint on my 63.

It was getting REALLY bad. It had crazing and cracking. All of the paint was worn off on the body peaks, etc. LOTS of stone chips, etc. You get the picture.

NCRS guys loved it. Most others didn't love it so much. Every time I'd go to a car cruise, or an NCCC show, I'd hear "NICE CAR, WHY DON'T YOU PAINT IT".

Finally did about 3 years ago, and went with single stage urethane enamel. Looks just great.

Judging? I get "nailed" a bit on the paint, but still have gotten Top Flight Awards with it. I'll have to check my judging sheets to see the % deduct.

Here's an "after" picture.

Chuck

[Alan S.]

Re: Oringinal paint or Base and clear coat?

Hi Robert,
I've seen Chuck's red car in person and it does look great and quite original.
I had my 71 painted with acrylic lacquer and have been very pleased with it. It lives a very sheltered life so durability hasn't been an issue.
The fellow who painted my car has only painted with lacquer and stressed to me that more paint isn't always better (so be careful how much of those coats stay on the car). He feels too much paint can cause many problems as the years go by. He bought 7 quarts of paint, I have 1 quart of thinned paint in storage, the rest is on the car (and the floor and walls). Its been almost 5 years and I think the paint is getting prettier in the way only lacquer can.
Regards,
Alan

[Andre R.]

Re: Oringinal paint or Base and clear coat?

Robert, as a once owner of a small auto paint business here is my advice. Todays lacquer is for trailered and climate controlled stored cars as it no longer contains the EPA banned toxins which provided potection from the elements. Single stage is preferred as long as the color is non metallic, ie black, white, red, yellow, monaco orange, etc. because it can be wet sanded. At $5800. somebody will lose either you or the shop. Location doesn't matter as far as material cost go and you are looking at about $1,000. for that alone. Industry standard for complete strip is 25-30 hours. Even @ illegal labor rates your looking at big money. Post paint cut & buff = $500. That leaves very little for body work, Sealing, priming, blocking, guide coat, and color. My advice would be to get refernces of actual vettes done in lacquer at that price by that shop. Regards,
Andre

[Chuck G.]

Re: Oringinal paint or Base and clear coat?

Hi Robert,
I've seen Chuck's red car in person and it does look great and quite original.
I had my 71 painted with acrylic lacquer and have been very pleased with it. It lives a very sheltered life so durability hasn't been an issue.
The fellow who painted my car has only painted with lacquer and stressed to me that more paint isn't always better (so be careful how much of those coats stay on the car). He feels too much paint can cause many problems as the years go by. He bought 7 quarts of paint, I have 1 quart of thinned paint in storage, the rest is on the car (and the floor and walls). Its been almost 5 years and I think the paint is getting prettier in the way only lacquer can.
Regards,
Alan

Hi Alan. I think you told me that John Millar in New Oxford, PA painted your car. Correct?

If true, John painted my 69 in lacquer back in the 1988-89 time frame. Still looks OK, but is starting to get little bubbles here and there, as well as some crazing/cracking, especially around the headlights and hood corners.

Chuck