Re: Rear end "sway" at highway speed
Replace the bushings,use rubber. If you have more then 050" true endplay in the yoke(s) I would consider replacing them. .500"-.625", if correct,indicates the yoke wore to the snap ring or the ring fell off, that is way too much and should be addressed now.
I would get the 1/2 shafts out and then really check the endplay. If the yoke comes out of the diff more then .187( 3/16) then the ring is off. Replacing just the yokes is something I would think over. If the end is ground down then you have a lot of powered metal in with the gear oil, makes a nice lapping compound. I find a lot of the C2 yokes and early C3's are still good many times. The play may be from worn or improper posi setup or cross shaft wear, both requiring attention and really dialing in the posi will make a big difference in both operation and life.
I can link you to my threads on rebuilding a diff and custom building them if you like,just PM me.
Replace the bushings,use rubber. If you have more then 050" true endplay in the yoke(s) I would consider replacing them. .500"-.625", if correct,indicates the yoke wore to the snap ring or the ring fell off, that is way too much and should be addressed now.
I would get the 1/2 shafts out and then really check the endplay. If the yoke comes out of the diff more then .187( 3/16) then the ring is off. Replacing just the yokes is something I would think over. If the end is ground down then you have a lot of powered metal in with the gear oil, makes a nice lapping compound. I find a lot of the C2 yokes and early C3's are still good many times. The play may be from worn or improper posi setup or cross shaft wear, both requiring attention and really dialing in the posi will make a big difference in both operation and life.
I can link you to my threads on rebuilding a diff and custom building them if you like,just PM me.
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. He's OK with it, though - he said the Vette makes the shop look very cool
. Tomorrow, I will head back to my brother's shop so they can check the torque on all the components and install the spare tire carrier. The rear stance of the car is about 1" to 1 1/4" higher than spec., but I understand from previous posts that the rear will settle as the new rubber spring bushings compress over time. If necessary, I can always change to longer bolts in the future to lower the rear of the car. This project gave me an opportunity to learn more about my car -- it was great to see that my frame and T/A's were in excellent, rust-free condition; including the trailing arm pockets. You wouldn't believe how much 40+ year old road dirt collects in those pockets! Again, I want to thank everyone who helped me with their guidance and opinions along the way
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