Eagle Eye

[Robert K.]

I have a dilemma on a 1964 vette; and having trouble getting the rear body raised; or lifted; enough to line up the top of the rear door jam gap still out about 3/8 to a 1/2 inch, not counting the 1/4 to 3/16 gap it should have; any suggestions? I raised the body as high as I can on the rear frame and bumper mounts would removing the washers/spacers on the body/bumper mount bolts allow the body to move forward and close the gap on the door jam?

[John H.]

Re: Eagle Eye

Robert -

Have you tried removing shims from the #3 mount (the one just forward of the rear wheel)? Adding shims at #4 and/or removing shims from #3 will close up the door-to-quarter gap at the top.

[Robert K.]

Re: Eagle Eye

Robert -

Have you tried removing shims from the #3 mount (the one just forward of the rear wheel)? Adding shims at #4 and/or removing shims from #3 will close up the door-to-quarter gap at the top.

By removing the cover in front of the rear wheel you can see the bolt but not sure how to get to the shims out? Is the #4 mount the one behind the rear wheel? If so It doesn't make any difference? I was wondering if I remove the shims or washers on the 4 rear bolts in between the exhaust and or on each side of the license plate holder for the body and fender would when tightend up move the body forward. HELP...

[Robert K.]

Re: Eagle Eye

Robert -

Have you tried removing shims from the #3 mount (the one just forward of the rear wheel)? Adding shims at #4 and/or removing shims from #3 will close up the door-to-quarter gap at the top.

John I can remove the cover on the #3 mount and loosen the bolt but can you tell me how you get to the shims between the frame and the body out, they seem to be concealed?
Thanks

[Wayne W.]

Re: Eagle Eye

John I can remove the cover on the #3 mount and loosen the bolt but can you tell me how you get to the shims between the frame and the body out, they seem to be concealed?
Thanks

Just pry or jack up the rail and slide the shims out from under the rail.

[Michael H.]

Re: Eagle Eye

I have a dilemma on a 1964 vette; and having trouble getting the rear body raised; or lifted; enough to line up the top of the rear door jam gap still out about 3/8 to a 1/2 inch, not counting the 1/4 to 3/16 gap it should have; any suggestions? I raised the body as high as I can on the rear frame and bumper mounts would removing the washers/spacers on the body/bumper mount bolts allow the body to move forward and close the gap on the door jam?

If you have the car on jack stands, and the stands are placed ahead of the rear wheel centerlines, that in itself will open the gap at the top of the door on a conv because the frame will flex. The frames in these cars, especially if a bit rusty, will flex a LOT.
The only proper way to align doors and other body panels is with a nearly complete chassis, including engine/transmission installed and sitting on the ground on it's wheels/tires.

[Mike M.]

Re: Eagle Eye

If I'm reading your post correctly you have the bumpers on and bolted to the frame. Bumpers were off the car when I did mine. Only bolts from body to frame were body mount bolts.

[Robert K.]

Re: Eagle Eye

Mike did you or can you add shims to the cross-member where the body sits on it to close the gap; it shows the book? Will that help close the gap makes sense to me?

[Mike M.]

Re: Eagle Eye

Robert, I had my shim count from when I removed the body. I put the same shims back and it worked out. My biggest problem was getting the door gaps correct. That was done with shims in the door hinge and up and down play. Spent hours doing that. I would try putting shims on the frame mounts behind the door to close the gap as long as the front gap on the door is good. Are both sides the same? Also is this a coupe or convertible.

[Robert K.]

Re: Eagle Eye

Yes both gaps are the same on each side on the latch side of the doors; the hindge side is perfect. If I lift the body from the rear end it closes the gap; which leads me to believe adding shims on the crossmember is the answer?

[Michael H.]

Re: Eagle Eye

Yes both gaps are the same on each side on the latch side of the doors; the hindge side is perfect. If I lift the body from the rear end it closes the gap; which leads me to believe adding shims on the crossmember is the answer?

I asked previously if you had the car up on jack stands but you didn't reply. ???

[Robert K.]

Re: Eagle Eye

No not on jack stands yet...should I?

[Michael H.]

Re: Eagle Eye

No not on jack stands yet...should I?

Robert,

No, it should not be on stands while adjusting anything on the body. It should be on it's wheels. I didn't know how you were doing this and when these cars are on stands, the gaps can change a lot, especially on a conv.

[Art A.]

Re: Eagle Eye

Did you replace the bronze bushings in the door hinges?