early '65 vent control cables, prior to 4 Jan 65

[Wayne M.]

Field Service Technical Information notice for early '65 ventilator control cables (left and right kickpad for non-A/C; rear blower control for coupes) describes changes to correct the described problem.

Two per car for convertibles and big tank coupes; 3 for other coupes, air or not; one for air convertibles.

Pic is of my early air coupe [November car], LH kickpad vent with first design cast (pot metal ?) bracket that screws to under edge of dash. Shows the casing tube that has slipped out of the bracket.

I'm holding the 2nd design beside it, and you can see the longer cast sleeve for proper tube retention.

My question is: would not '63 and '64 have had the same design bracket [and therefore the same problem] ? I realize that their part #s would be different because of the plasic knob shape.

[Rich P.]

Re: early '65 vent control cables, prior to 4 Jan 65

Wayne,

going from memory here...63-64's had a stamped steel bracket and retainer. I might be wrong on that but that is how I recall it. So it is possible that the stamped housing had a better method for retaining the cable. You could crimp the ends to lock it in place and not worry about the housing breaking like you would on a 65-up cast housing. Hopefully someone will post a picture of one so we can see for sure.

Rich

[Michael M.]

Re: early '65 vent control cables, prior to 4 Jan 65

Rich can you tell us how much comes off the end of the cable, do you use heat to curl the end of the cable, and how much comes off the plastic housing. Thanks Mike.

[Rich P.]

Re: early '65 vent control cables, prior to 4 Jan 65

Rich can you tell us how much comes off the end of the cable, do you use heat to curl the end of the cable, and how much comes off the plastic housing. Thanks Mike.

Hey Mike hope all is well with you and the 66!!.

I can't say excatly how much to cut off. What I would do is take a coat hanger and use that as a template, bend it to get the best routing to the vent door. Then measure and transfer that to your cable. The hardest thing to do is loop the wire. I'd try to avoid heating he cable. The best way to bend it is to leave enought wire to grab with pliers and wrap around a punch. then you can cut the excess wire off.

(the best way to visualize this is to bend a coat hanger around a punch , if you only have a 1" to grab and wrap around the punch it is very hard to do. Now if you have a 3-4 inches to grab it is much easier to get it around the punch)

You will have some adjustment in relocating the metal bracket crimped on the end. Once you do have the clamp positioned on the plastic of the cable crimp it on with pliers first then securely set it in place by hammering and dollying it in place.

Hope this helps, Rich