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1960 Heater & Rad

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  • Dave S.
    Infrequent User
    • May 31, 1989
    • 9

    1960 Heater & Rad

    Looking for advise - Detailing under hood for a nice driver but not oringinal engine, need to replace Upper and Lower Rad hose + Heater Hose's and various clamps, Where do you suggest good place to buy from? Another note is Rad tank painted or natural? Thanks for your help. Dave
  • Jim D.
    Extremely Frequent Poster
    • June 30, 1985
    • 2884

    #2
    Re: 1960 Heater & Rad

    Copper rads. were painted black, aluminum ones were not.

    Comment

    • Dave S.
      Infrequent User
      • May 31, 1989
      • 9

      #3
      Re: 1960 Heater & Rad

      Thanks Jim for quick reply. Dave

      Comment

      • J O.
        Expired
        • August 31, 1987
        • 19

        #4
        Re: 1960 Heater & Rad

        dave.
        if you're doing a "driver" then :
        corvette central, or paragon have nice original rad, and heater hoses-(with rib's) and corbin clamps.(corbin clamp pliers -at nappa $15 )they look great.
        for my driver '58- i put a-ball cock water shut off valve in the heater hose "in" line up in the wheel well behind the 4" air hose..($5 at lowes). a saftey device in case the heater valve or the heater core inside the passenger compartment blow a leak. you'll be able to shut off the water line to the heater and drive the car home.( and /or around).. i've seen several heater cores blow and with no way to shut off the hot water line to the heater, the car would need to be towed.
        hope this help's.

        Comment

        • Jim D.
          Extremely Frequent Poster
          • June 30, 1985
          • 2884

          #5
          Re: 1960 Heater & Rad

          Originally posted by J J O'Hara (11877)
          dave.
          if you're doing a "driver" then :
          corvette central, or paragon have nice original rad, and heater hoses-(with rib's) and corbin clamps.(corbin clamp pliers -at nappa $15 )they look great.
          for my driver '58- i put a-ball cock water shut off valve in the heater hose "in" line up in the wheel well behind the 4" air hose..($5 at lowes). a saftey device in case the heater valve or the heater core inside the passenger compartment blow a leak. you'll be able to shut off the water line to the heater and drive the car home.( and /or around).. i've seen several heater cores blow and with no way to shut off the hot water line to the heater, the car would need to be towed.
          hope this help's.
          I hope you used a valve in both heater hoses. Closing off only one hose won't help. In the event of a problem, I would just move one heater hose and bypass the heater.

          Comment

          • Stewart A.
            Expired
            • April 16, 2008
            • 1035

            #6
            Re: 1960 Heater & Rad

            You mentioned that your car hasn't got the original motor ? If it's a 350 or a motor with an aluminium style intake the original hoses will not fit ? So you better check before you buy the wrong hoses. The corbin clamps are rubbish (my opinion) They get weaker as time goes and the hoses begin to leak and to change the bottom hose is half a mission if you have a shroud and trying to get the Corbin clamp off is not fun. So if it were me I would use the typical clamps you can buy at the auto shops today. And the tower style hose clamps for the 58 -60 are junk as well (my opinion). I have had several fail due to pathetic quality. I tried to make mine look more authentic while my 283 is being built but have ended up with modern clamps and different rad hoses due to the different outlet spots because it has a 350 in it. Stewy

            Comment

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