Some time back I had my shoes re-lined and when putting all the components back I noticed the pin, spring and washer that hold the linings from falling forward was extremely difficult to put on. My question is when pushing the washer on with pliers and twisting over the pin to lock it in should the spring be completely bound. I'm spending half an hour to get the washer to lock on one spring and it's ridiculously tight ? Can I cut some of the spring back to relieve the pressure. The reason I'm posting this problem is that after a couple of days driving I noticed a squealing noise and after removing the drum they had popped off ? I know have knew washers and new pins and it's still the same I'm not convinced it's right. Does it sound like the spring is the incorrect size ! Stewy
1960 rear brake help
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Re: 1960 rear brake help
Spring kits are cheap - and brakes are NOT to be treated as cheap - so go buy another setup from a KNOWN vendor other than the one you used and compare. Beyond that, if you did this and had never done it before, find someone who has and ask him over for a "reveal" session when you pull the drum. Every do-it-yourselfer has screwed it up - the smart ones admit it.- Top
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Re: 1960 rear brake help
Stewy -
Sounds like you may have the wrong length pins; I haven't done C1 rears for many years, but I believe there are two or three different lengths of pins, and what you get in a brake hardware "kit" may or may not be correct. Someone else will chime in who knows more about it.- Top
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Re: 1960 rear brake help
Loren I have done it lots of times but have never had this problem being so tight. I'm positive the spring is the incorrect size. The pins are correct !
Stewy- Top
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Re: 1960 rear brake help
Stewart,
I also have installed more brake shoes than I care to remember, and thought I would chime in with another opinion. I am assuming you do not have the type of retainers shown by Roy, and have the type with-the washer and spring-as you referred them.
Sounds in your original post that:
A-you had your original shoes relined
B-first attempt at installation was with all the parts that were previously used.
It does sound as though you are certainly having to use more "elbow grease" than would be expected at reasembly, if indeed you were using ALL the orignal parts that were removed. This would make me suspect that something has changed.
Are you absolutely poitive you received your OLD shoes in return, or just a re-lined set of shoes?
When you purchased the new hardware (you stated new washers and pins) did you also get new springs or are these the ones removed in the beginning?
Did you compare the length of the new pins to the old ones?
I have had similar experiences with this type of hardware in the past, and could probably go out in the garage right now and find pins of four or five different lengths from various applications. One problem application that I know comes to mind is the ones for the e-brake shoes on the later disc brake cars. These can be very difficult to install, and I am not sure I have EVER got pins that were the length of the orignals in the kits that are made for these applicatiions. I can remember "shortening the new pins more than once by cutting them off and "smashing" the end in a vise to re-flatten it so it would hold. My opinion that is EVERYTHING else about your installation seems fine, you can go one of two ways. Longer pins, or shorter springs. I personally would not have a problem shortening the springs if I was doing that job myself, as long a there was enough spring left for proper retention. They should hold the shoe against the backing plate firmly, but NOT be that tight. One other thing I do is use a LITTLE brake grease on the small pads on the backing plate where the shoe rides (I think you will see what I mean if you look). It helps the shoe to freely move back and forth. Be careful so that you do not get grease on the linings themselves, it will make the brakes "grab". Just one mans opinion and I hope you found this helpful,
Lynn Houk- Top
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Re: 1960 rear brake help
Thanks Lynn I remember taking them off and noticed at the time they were ridiculously tight.
I have scoured my area for longer pins but couldn't find any so I have cut my springs down one coil 2 1/2 mm and still have heaps of spring left in them. Now it fits perfectly on and off. The reason for my urgency on this matter is that I have a 10 hour driving trip in the Vette to the Nation Hot Rod Meet in Bright on the 6th next week. I don't want to have the car towed back.
I have been for a good drive around stop start areas and have checked the car again and all seems well. I will order a set of new springs, pins and washers when I get back.
Thanks for your help. Parts over here are drying up for old cars and I live in a country were Chevy's don't really exist. So if I'm in a hurry for parts it can be very difficult. I have to order them from your country and fly them in, which takes a good couple of weeks plus. Stewy- Top
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Re: 1960 rear brake help
Here's a link I got from John Hinckley (thanks, John) that has a chart on the hold-down pins. Maybe that will help.
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Re: 1960 rear brake help
Thanks Bill that confirmed I have the correct length pins and it has the 8* stamped on the back. It also confirms that I have the incorrect size springs. I will fly over a new set after I get back from my drunken weekend. I can't wait to see who has just spent half a mill on some new rod. It's really got out of hand the time and expense these guys are going to with custom cars ! Thanks all for your replies Stewy- Top
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