When starting up my 350/350, I have to crank the engine over for quite a while before she fires. I've tried pressing on the pedal just once and it does the same thing. I've tried pumping the pedal and it's still the same. Doesn't seem to matter what I do, I always crank the motor for an extended period of time. Once it starts, I can kick it down to idle right after starting. Shouldn't the choke keep it on a little higher RPM until it warms up a little. Not sure if the two problems are related. Jim
69 350/350 startup
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Re: 69 350/350 startup
Not that I am an expert...but my first thought would be that the acceralator pump in the carb is wornout. Any work done to the carb recently?? I would also think it woould take a few minutes to kick down, but this also would be realtive to ambient temperature.
Just some ideas...
Lynn- Top
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Re: 69 350/350 startup
When starting up my 350/350, I have to crank the engine over for quite a while before she fires. I've tried pressing on the pedal just once and it does the same thing. I've tried pumping the pedal and it's still the same. Doesn't seem to matter what I do, I always crank the motor for an extended period of time. Once it starts, I can kick it down to idle right after starting. Shouldn't the choke keep it on a little higher RPM until it warms up a little. Not sure if the two problems are related. Jim- Top
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Re: 69 350/350 startup
Starting proceedure:
(1) Press accelerator all the way to the floor to set choke/high idle.
(2) A 'flutter' or two of the pedal after that setup doesn't hurt...adds addition fuel.
(3) Crank the starter and engine should fire in 5 seconds max.
(4) If it doesn't fire, STOP cranking and go to step 1.
If the car hasn't been driven in +3 days, expect the carb's fuel bowl to be low and/or dry. To work properly, fuel stored in the bowl HAS to be normalized to atmospheric pressure (FI cars are closed system all the way to the injector(s)) hence, there's a vent on the fuel bowl that allows sitting gas to evaporate.
LAYING on the starter and continuously cranking a cold engine whose carb has a low/empty fuel bowl only adds stress/wear to the starter & engine internals...
Note: QJet carbs that haven't been rebuilt properly are pone to 'weeping' fuel from the bottom of the idle circuit's wells. You can't see this fuel leak because it goes directly to the intake. Pro rebuilders know to plug these wells with something like epoxy when they do a carb overhaul.- Top
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Re: 69 350/350 startup
Jim, is this statring problem new or has it been going on for some time? One other thing to check is the choke spring. The spring on a 69 L46 pushes up to set the choke. It should not pull down when cold. You may have a weak choke spring. Check to see if the choke plate is closing properly when you set the choke. When you start to crank the engine have a helper push the choke plate all the way closed. If the car starts you probably have a weak choke spring. As Jack said the Q-jet of that era was famous for leaking gas out of the feul bowl into the intake.
LarryLarry
2002 Z51 Convertible
1969 L46 Convertible- Top
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Re: 69 350/350 startup
I haven't had much expeerience with starting the car since I took it a part right after I got her to start restoration. So now that the car is back together, I'm just now dealing with some of the mechanical issues. The engine had been rebuild about 10K prior to me buying it so I wasn't too worried about it's overall condition and once running seems to run fine. It's just that starting seems to be a little problamatic and keeping it running until it warms up. Thanks for all the advice, I'll check out your suggestions this weekend. jim- Top
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