Referring to my purchase 5 weeks ago of a body on restored '66 roadster. The previous owner had it for ten years and put 20k in to paint, and 8k in to body work and another 28k into re-building and restoration. The engine is totally re-built and re-painted, but the entire engine in painted orange as it is a 327/300. The engine number is painted over also and I am told that this is a no-no. Do I have to remove the paint from the numbers for judging? Thanks for any replies.
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Re: Re-built engine in my '66
The pad would have to be bare for the surface to be judged. A single edge razor blade will take that paint right off.
Good luck,
Steve -
Re: Re-built engine in my '66
Jerry you might want to use something non-metallic to remove the paint from the pad to protect it from being scratched. Try lacquer thinner or a mild paint remover.Comment
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Re: Re-built engine in my '66
Hint: if the Chevy orange has either sat for a reasonable time OR the engine has been run appreciably (paint bake), the orange on the stamp pad will be pretty well cooked. And, since the common Chevy orange is enamel, lacquer thinner will be 'challenged' to disolve it.
I'd consider applying masking tape around the edges of the stamp pad and repeatedly daubing it with paint remover. Use something soft (like 3M Scotch Gard pads) to lift the paint and flush the paint + paint remover away with LIBERAL amount(s) of fresh running water...
The 'no no' about painted stamp pads (actually some of the C1 cars left the factory with their pads painted) is that it obscures the judges' visibility of the native steel on the pad and the broach marks that need to be verified during judging. So, this is an area where NCRS intentionally deviates from factory original appearance on those cars affected...Comment
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Re: Re-built engine in my '66
If you are able to use a razor blade to scrape a sticker off of glass without scratching it than you shouldn't scratch the stamp pad either, if not, mask everything off and use paint stripper.
SteveLast edited by Steven S.; October 28, 2009, 03:51 AM.Comment
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Re: Re-built engine in my '66
I'm with Jack about the non metallic cleaning, it certainly is not like you can't scratch the glass with the blade. I am not trying to be know it all or smart aleck, but you cannot "un-damge" the stamp pad if something WAS to happen. This is an area which sometimes recieves GREAT amounts of attention during the judging process, due to the fact that some people do restamp the motors. Even if you did not plan on getting the car judged yourself, the next guy might. Better safe than sorry, I think this is an area where most of the members would agree, you cannot be too careful.
Just an opinion, GOOD LUCK AND BE CAREFUL!!
LynnComment
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Re: Re-built engine in my '66
Agreed, after thinking it over you guys are right, the safest way to go about it would be the stripper. The razor blade could potentially do damage if done incorrectly, so my ealier advise was not solid.
SteveComment
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Re: Re-built engine in my '66
Thanks to all for the responses and I will try Jack's method.Comment
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Re: Re-built engine in my '66
Jerry:
Recommend trying the lacquer thinner first. It may take a few applications, but should work. Save the paint remover for the last attempt, if the thinner doesn't work.
Lacquer thinner worked for me after engine had been painted for 10+ years. (Maybe they used cheap paint
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You then need to apply Prelub-6 or machine oil, etc to the pad surface to minimize rusting. Do a few applications over a few days/weeks. Even this will not prevent all rusting in locations with high humidity (like Houston or New Orleans or Florida).
LarryComment
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Re: Re-built engine in my '66
Yes, and such is unfortunate in my book. Why do I say this?
Well, when it comes to engine block (AKA cylinder case) judging, there are no points associated with 'condition'. So, the assessment of the block's casting number, date, and stamp pad configuration is SOLELY an originality issue.
But, some judges are 'hair triggered' to fail stamp pads that appear 'too new' (heck, what did the sucka look like when it rolled off the assy line?) AND some don't look beyond the presence of 'extraneous' lines/scratches in the pad (*&^% happens to aged original blocks over time) to see if they can actually still see/verify the factory original broach marks lying below.
Those who are REALLY experienced with stamp pad judging DO understand this is an 'appearance' game and know how to sort these issues correctly....Comment
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Re: Re-built engine in my '66
Hi, Jerry --
I have the same issue on the '66 I bought just this Saturday. I was planning on masking and using a gel-based stripper such as this one:
to reduce the potential for run-off and unwanted stripping. YOu'll have to let it sit on the pad for a few hours, but this stuff'll take off anything. Plus, it's pretty safe.Comment
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