'66 427/425 Confirmation
What's the best way(s) to confirm an original 425 Coupe ? Present block is a CE , so not much help.
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Re: '66 427/425 Confirmation
Lots,
Needs T-I, BB rear caps and sway bar. only BB could have F-41. Factory wire clips for muncie speedo cable. 80 lb oil gauge and 6500 RPM tach. Also check the sticker on the back of the cluster it is 425 HP specific. (Off hand I can't remember th 2 letter designation maybe some one else will chime in).
Rich
Wanted to add look for original paint on the underside of the BB hood. -
Re: '66 427/425 Confirmation
An L72 would be equipped with either an M21 or M22, so if you have an M20 with the VIN of the car stamped on it, that would be a bad sign. Your best bet is to closely examine everything that would be associated with the K66 (TI) option as that was standard with L72, and like Rich said a close examination of the instrument cluster to see if it has the correct label on the back or looks like it was ever tampered with. Other BB indicators wold include the accelerator lever (on the firewall side), right side splash shield with notch for exhaust, and fuel line with correct bend (which one would have to go to a lot of trouble to change). In the end all of this only points toward BB, only good documentation and an original stamp pad can really "confirm" it.
Good luck,
SteveComment
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Re: '66 427/425 Confirmation
I have always been suspicious of cars that said they were big blocks without the proper engine code and VIN stamp to prove it. Too many say they decked the block, or it has a replacement 942 block and thus it is unstamped, etc., but still too easy to add all the big block equipment and create a good fake. Big blocks are worth so much more than small, the incentive is there.Big Tanks In the High Mountains of New MexicoComment
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Re: '66 427/425 Confirmation
Very true but on the other hand these cars were usually run hard and put away wet, and most of their original engines didn't make it thru the '70's much less till now. But you are right the incentive is there, when money is involved look out.Comment
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Re: '66 427/425 Confirmation
The 'best way' to confirm is with an original bill of sale + affidavit from the first owner. Just about anything else is a 'forensic' determination and subject to presumptive errors (you 'presume' this/that component is actually the factory original that shipped with the car vs. a substitute/replacement from another car of the era)...Comment
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Re: '66 427/425 Confirmation
...All good points ...Thanks ! A friend of mine just paid 25K for this car . It's been sitting since '75 unmoved in a carport . The original owner finally died & the family had it for sale . I'm told the original short block was replaced at 23,000 miles in '67 or '68 ( now showing 76,000 ) . if everything but the block is original, I'm thinking 25K is a pretty good deal... what do you think?Comment
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Re: '66 427/425 Confirmation
With the current trend (absent this recession) in mid-year Corvette prices, I'm not sure you can lose even if it's missing its original motor...
If you're a member of a local NCRS Chapter, seek appraisal/evaluation assistance. If you're not a local NCRS Chapter member, why not join and get active?Comment
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Re: '66 427/425 Confirmation
If you got it from the original owners family, look at the Protecto Plate. it will carry the car's VIN and engine code.Bill Clupper #618Comment
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Re: '66 427/425 Confirmation
Good deal!
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Re: '66 427/425 Confirmation
Ralph the numbers/letters associated with the stamping of CE will give more information on the 66's block. Not familiar with the new car length of warranty and mileage a 66's engine was warranted. My 70 was the last year of the 5 year 50,000 mile warranty.
Sitting on a carport since 1975 out of the rain, your friend has a great find. What shape is it in for the owners to sell it for only 25K?Comment
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Re: '66 427/425 Confirmation
For 25K kiss the sky and run you got a dealComment
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