Half Shaft U Joint help!

[Alan D.]

Just picked up two half shafts with u joints still in them. Now it looks like a bow tie exists on one side and some numbers on the other - all four are the same.
Could these be original??? Good for a 64 car?? They are not what I expected to see, but the bow tie leads me to believe they are real.

[Joe L.]

Re: Half Shaft U Joint help!

Just picked up two half shafts with u joints still in them. Now it looks like a bow tie exists on one side and some numbers on the other - all four are the same.
Could these be original??? Good for a 64 car?? They are not what I expected to see, but the bow tie leads me to believe they are real.

Alan-----


Yes, this is typical of some original u-joints. Of course, SERVICE u-joints manufactured about the same time would also have been so configured and marked. So, there's no way to say for absolute certain that these were the original ones installed. But, some known-original u-joints do evidence this configuration and marking.

I used to think that what appears to be a "Bow Tie" was not and was, actually, a similar-appearing manufacturer's ID for some outside supplier. However, I changed my view on that some time ago.

I think that what happened here was that some of these u-joints were of internal GM manufacture. Most likely, the trunnions were forged at either the Detroit or Tonawanda Forge. Both of those were, at the time, operated by the Chevrolet Motor Division. So, they decided to use the Bow Tie as the forging mark.

[Alan D.]

Re: Half Shaft U Joint help!

Thanks Joe, that makes me happy!

My next problem is the removal of those u joints. Working on diff side and have been unable to push the end far enough to remove cap. Plan to use cap again.

Is there a trick here that I forgot?? Have done before, but a long time back.

[Joe R.]

Re: Half Shaft U Joint help!

Hi Alan:

When I get the U-joint to the point shown in your photo, I usually have to press the now-free cap back into the yoke a little bit to get the U-joint out. I do this by pressing on the U-joint itself, rather than the partially free cap at the top of your photo.

Another approach that sometimes works is to use some vice grip pliers to grasp the exposed portion of the partially free cap and twist it out of the yoke.

It sounds like you may be planning to re-use these U-joints due to excessive NCRS disease. If so, be sure to use a good arbor press (not a hammer) to get them apart. You are welcome to come by and use my arbor press if that would help.

[Alan D.]

Re: Half Shaft U Joint help!

Thanks Joe,

And Yes due to "excessive NCRS disease" do plan to re-use so no vice grips. Have been able to get one & half out so far. Looks like the ends of the shaft have some build up of rust so need to clean and press back and forth - with some luck they come out. So far the joints still look very good, no signs of any marks. Thanks on press offer however have a 12ton unit.

[John D.]

Re: Half Shaft U Joint help!

Alan,Ever why the u joints didn't have grease fittings? Originals that is. Hanson repeated that to me as I forgot. JD

[Joe R.]

Re: Half Shaft U Joint help!

Hi Alan:

The vice grip pliers are okay if used carefully. You can use a piece of aluminum sheet metal to protect the cap from getting marked up. I often find that the half-out cap is almost ready to fall out, so it only needs a little bit of persuasion with the vice grips.

[Wayne M.]

Re: Half Shaft U Joint help!

Alan -- you may remember these shots from a few years ago -- complete rear suspension off a late Jan or early Feb 1964 (going by cast and stamp dates), that was removed in 1968 or 9 and stored for a future 'hot-rod' project, that is, until I bought it about 5 years ago.

All four half-shaft U-joints are the same, here. Outboard sides of the end of each shaft (facing the diff yoke, or facing the spindle flange) have "4118" lightly cast. The inboards (facing tube shaft with the GM number "3705377_GM_59_B". You can see the boss for the grease fitting, but these are not drilled.

Now there is something cast but almost invisible below the "4118" of the two joints on one of the half-shafts; seems like a staggered "A J" with the J higher. You can't see it on this shot (which is from the other half-shaft).

Of course, these also could have been replaced in those first four years of use (especially with it's 4.56 [code CF] gearset) .

[Joe L.]

Re: Half Shaft U Joint help!

Thanks Joe,

And Yes due to "excessive NCRS disease" do plan to re-use so no vice grips. Have been able to get one & half out so far. Looks like the ends of the shaft have some build up of rust so need to clean and press back and forth - with some luck they come out. So far the joints still look very good, no signs of any marks. Thanks on press offer however have a 12ton unit.

Alan-----

I think you're wasting your time trying to save these u-joints. I'll be amazed if, when you get them out and inspect them, they are suitable for re-use.

Remember, any sort of wear or brinnelling on ANY of the bearing surfaces renders the u-joint unfit for re-use.

[Alan D.]

Re: Half Shaft U Joint help!

So far Joe the two I removed have no sign of wear which surprised me. If I do use, will make up a set for show only (trailer queen style).
Wayne, those are what I expected to see however Joe felt mine may have also been the real thing.

The worst case; these will be good for tech meet show and tell.

[Paul J.]

Re: Half Shaft U Joint help!

Alan:

You may wish to talk to Gary Ramadei about re-using those u-joints. He's posted some good information on another forum and he has some good insight. Send him an e-mail or a PM.

Paul

[Joe R.]

Re: Half Shaft U Joint help!

Hi Alan:

Attached are front and back photos of the drive shaft and half-shaft U-joints I removed from my 67 during restoration in 2005. I suspect they are original, but I can't confirm it.

[Alan D.]

Re: Half Shaft U Joint help!

Joe, Those are what I expect to see. Do have one drive shaft u joint which has a part number (3707068, it may be 3787. .) and bowtie around the center indent.

[Alan D.]

Re: Half Shaft U Joint help!

Here's a clean picture of the drive shaft u joint. Note the pn at top then a "D", then "57", and finally the bowtie. the rubbers all have a "HZ" marking on them. Came off a C1 drive shaft, never recorded paint number on shaft, but it was there.

[Joe L.]

Re: Half Shaft U Joint help!

Here's a clean picture of the drive shaft u joint. Note the pn at top then a "D", then "57", and finally the bowtie. the rubbers all have a "HZ" marking on them. Came off a C1 drive shaft, never recorded paint number on shaft, but it was there.

Alan-----


The part number is a forging number for the body of the u-joint and not the part number for the finished piece. The configuration of this u-joint body is typical of many original 63-70 driveshaft u-joints.

The "D" MAY be a forging ID mark for the GM Detroit Forge. That's just a guess, though. The "57" is likely a forging die number.