1967 turning signal canceling cam no tele

[Keith G.]

Do I need to take the steering column out to replace this or just the steering wheel?

[Patrick T.]

Re: 1967 turning signal canceling cam no tele

Do I need to take the steering column out to replace this or just the steering wheel?

I replaced the entire turn signal switch on my '67 with an NOS switch. I only had to take off the steering wheel and the snap on molding on bottom of the column that hides the connection wires. Be sure to disconnect the battery before starting though. PT

[Stephen L.]

Re: 1967 turning signal canceling cam no tele

I just did this on my 67. The new switch I purchased had the curved connector already installed on the wiring. This will NOT pass thru the steering column bezel nor the bearing retainer at the top of the column.

It is a fairly easy replacement.
1) Remove the horn button
2) Remove the horn switch and steering wheel nut
3) Pull steering wheel
4) Remove screws holding turn signal switch and bearing retainer.
5) Remove turn signal arm and hazard switch knob
6) Remove snap ring on shaft holding bearing retainer
7) Remove screws holding bezel to dash
8) Disconnect battery and turn signal connector (under dash)
9) Pry off the wiring trough
10) Remove 3 screws on circumference of column head
11) Remove all the loose parts
12) Reuse red tag from original wiring (if its still on the old wires)
13) Assemble in reverse order

New switch available from SHEE MAR INC. $121

Have fun

[Gerard F.]

Re: 1967 turning signal canceling cam no tele

Keith,

The turn signal canceling cam is a different part than the cam which is a part of the switch. The canceling cam is relatively easy to replace by just removing the steering wheel with the upper housing.

However, I'm assuming that your problem is with the cam on the signal switch where you don't have any signal lever holdback and therefore no cancelling. The usual problem is with broken ears on the cam on the switch, and it is probably better to replace the switch rather than playing around with an incompatible cam.

The below thread from the archives might be helpful:

https://www.forums.ncrs.org/showthread.php?p=286084&uid=5377

Since that post I found that there is a new cam out by Shee-Mar which might work better on your original or replacement signal switch. I haven't tried it yet on my original switch, as I have gone through a number of replacement switches. The last one I put on was the one from Shee-Mar which Steve has a picture above. That's the best one I've found.

You can eliminate a few of the steps in Steve's procedure above, by taking the wiring off the connector of the old and new switches. The connector is removed from the wiring very easily with a very small eyeglass type screwdriver prying at the sides of the individual wire connectors.

Without the connector, the switch wiring can be threaded through the dash bezel and bearing housing, without removing them from the column.

Take a look at some of the pictures in the thread indicated above. There are also a few later threads in the archives in regard to the cam and changing the signal switch. I've changed the switch in my 67 so many times, I can now do it in under a half hour if I had to do it. I did it last time, the night before I was to leave for the Road Tour to the San Jose National.

One thing that I learned last time and with the Shee-Mar switch, is to use a shorter screw than the original (1/2"-5/8" vs 3/4") for the screw which holds the signal lever in place to the cam on the switch. And use the screw with a lockwasher. The original screw has a locking thread on it, and when used with the replacements, it seems to leave the lever and the cam too loose, creating problems with the contacts to the switch body.
With a shorter screw and a lockwasher, you can get a nice tight fit of the cam against the body and thus the contacts.

Been meaning to put that new cam on my original switch and try it out, to finish my Restorer story on the subject, but I've been having too much driving it lately.

[Stephen L.]

Re: 1967 turning signal canceling cam no tele

Keith and Gerry, Initially I purchased the cam (prior to switch removal) After I took it apart I found the "ear" worn on the switch itself so I had to buy a complete switch. This switch is rather "iffy" in design. Later models used a more robust switch.

I'd spend the money on a whole new switch. If you want just a cam, I've got one for you.

Steve