brake pedal switch connector

[Wayne M.]

Re: brake pedal switch connector

..I've heard NCRS interior judges 'discussing' while they worked... Some swear the switches were NEVER painted black and all were 'perfectly' plated black while others give credit for either form of making the case black (paint or plate). The pass-down information on what's factory correct/original and what isn't simply abounds!

Jack -- Here's a better shot of the NOS '509" (top) and a junkyard donor ('66 GM product), bottom. I'd say that the empty cans were dipped into something resembling strong coffee (brownish tinge) yet definitely clear, like a varnish. Very poor / spotty coverage, and the bare spot on the new one was probably due to an oil mark, where the 'dip' wouldn't adhere.

Note the nuts on the lower one; the markings PAL -- are those what's called pal nuts ?

[Jack H.]

Re: brake pedal switch connector

You will occassionally find a 'plated' switch with almost perfect coverage, but that's the exception rather than the rule. Plus, the earlier in time for the donor car, the higher the probability of finding a painted vs. plated switch...

That makes me wonder if the process started with painting then plating came along as a cost reduction alternative and, from time to time, the plating process went 'south' resulting in Delco painting over the plate to save work-in-progress material. But, all this is just a wild a-- guess...

On the PAL nuts, you've now discovered why they're called that! The original mfgr wacked his ID on the side and that's what led to the current nomenclature...

[Jack H.]

Re: brake pedal switch connector

I can't give you a specific 'fix' only general advice...

I've seen more than one car where the brake switch mounting bracket was 'distorted' resulting in switch contact closure inconsistency. In these cases, the plunger of the switch wound up being slightly off-center and/or skewed relative to the mating contact surface of the brake pedal shaft. That resulted in inconsitent mechanical contact causing the switch to open/close erratically.

[Richard E.]

Re: brake pedal switch connector

Joe,
I am using the GM 1261219 switch which came in an AC Delco box. The only marking on the switch are letters "JWL" cast in the plastic at the terminal end of the switch. I have two of these switches, one with a black housing and white pushbutton and one with an all white housing and white pushbutton. Both pushbuttons are hollow (holes in center) unlike some others that have solid ends to the pusbutton. It seems switch operation is sensitive to the bending of the connection terminals. Maybe I'm just having some bad luck. Thanks again for the help, and also to all others helping me out.

[Joe L.]

Re: brake pedal switch connector

Joe,
I am using the GM 1261219 switch which came in an AC Delco box. The only marking on the switch are letters "JWL" cast in the plastic at the terminal end of the switch. I have two of these switches, one with a black housing and white pushbutton and one with an all white housing and white pushbutton. Both pushbuttons are hollow (holes in center) unlike some others that have solid ends to the pusbutton. It seems switch operation is sensitive to the bending of the connection terminals. Maybe I'm just having some bad luck. Thanks again for the help, and also to all others helping me out.

Richard----


The GM #1261219 is a functionally correct switch for your application. It's one in a series of supercessive part numbers.

[Wayne M.]

Re: brake pedal switch connector

... I've seen more than one car where the brake switch mounting bracket was 'distorted' resulting in switch contact closure inconsistency. In these cases, the plunger of the switch wound up being slightly off-center and/or skewed relative to the mating contact surface of the brake pedal shaft. That resulted in inconsitent mechanical contact causing the switch to open/close erratically.

Jack -- add two more cars; both my'65's have the switch bracket bent at an angle, causing the symtoms you describe, and even wearing the contact tip on one side (can-type switch). Well, I straightened it on one of my cars, but now it takes more pedal movement (and line pressure) for the brake lights to illuminate. And, I'm running out of adjusting thread on the nose (PAL nuts), already moved the switch rearward as much as I can.

I'm thinking that if the '509' contact button is solid (bakelite, whatever), I could Dremel a bit off the tip (say, starting with 1/8") to effect the same as "bending" the bracket.

[Jack H.]

Re: brake pedal switch connector

The switch plunger on the early DR metal can packaged brake switch 'appears' to be of Bakelite construction. This switch (and its predecessors) goes WAY back in time!

I doubt the 'plastic' pieces are indeed injection molded plastic as we know it today. In the early days, all they had was Bakelite and that's a form of 'plastic' that's based on granulated wood pulp.

But, I don't fully understand why your air gap between the straightened switch bracket and the pedal shaft is SO small that you're taxing the adjustable length of the PAL nuts on the switch threaded body.

The '509 switch plunger extends 9/16" from the tip of the threaded body and the threaded portion of the body extends approximatel 13/16" from the main body of the switch...

[David L.]

Re: brake pedal switch connector

Jack,

Was this NOS GM # 1998667 stop light switch with black Bakelite end cover only used in 1961? The plating on this 1998667 switch appears to be cad/zinc and the end cover appears to be the black Bakelite material.
GM # 1998667 (D-868) was discontinued in Jan. 1961 as per Chevrolet Parts History and was replaced with GM # 1993509 (D-873). I assume the only difference between the 2 switches was the plating.

Dave

[Jack H.]

Re: brake pedal switch connector

According to the sucession of Corvette AIM books, the 1998667 switch was indeed a 1-year only part. I've never been able to actually confirm what the lil devil looked like, but your NOS picture makes SENSE!

The prior switch (1998196, '58-60) had a brown Bakelite rear and it was brightly plated. The later switch from Delco Remy (1993509, '62-66) also had a black Bakelite rear, but the switch body was black in color (some painted, some plated).

Also, in the later years ('64 and up), the Delco brake switch got an alternate source (AIM books call out an OPT XXXXXXX part number) that was a plastic bodied, purchased part...

THANKS for posting the pix of the NOS part! Now I know what the 1-year only sucka looked like!

[David L.]

Re: brake pedal switch connector

According to the sucession of Corvette AIM books, the 1998667 switch was indeed a 1-year only part. I've never been able to actually confirm what the lil devil looked like, but your NOS picture makes SENSE!

The prior switch (1998196, '58-60) had a brown Bakelite rear and it was brightly plated. The later switch from Delco Remy (1993509, '62-66) also had a black Bakelite rear, but the switch body was black in color (some painted, some plated).

Also, in the later years ('64 and up), the Delco brake switch got an alternate source (AIM books call out an OPT XXXXXXX part number) that was a plastic bodied, purchased part...

THANKS for posting the pix of the NOS part! Now I know what the 1-year only sucka looked like!

Jack,

I was digging thru some of my boxes of parts recently and I came across a stop light switch that I removed from a 1960 Chevrolet. The back side is black Bakelite and looks identical to my NOS 1998667 switch (1961 models only). Unfortunately I did not record when the 1960 Chevrolet was made as it possibly could have been made near the end of the production when possibly they ran out of 1998196 (brown Bakelite) switches and installed the new 1998667 switches.

My 1960 Chevrolet switch does NOT have any stampings or embossed "Delco Remy" on the black Bakelite like Wayne's NOS 1993509 switch.

I guess that it is very possible that my 1960 Chevrolet switch is an aftermarket replacement. The overall length measures about 2.97" at the centerline and the "can" (O.D. = 0.89" & 1.07") measures about 1.15" long.

Dave