Oil Pan Baffle Plate

[Robert K.]

Would anyone have a picture of an installed oil pan baffle plate for a BB L71? I found quite a bit of information in the archives on the subject but couldn't seem to find a picture of how this bolts up to the mains.

Thanks for your help

Bob

[Joe L.]

Re: Oil Pan Baffle Plate

Would anyone have a picture of an installed oil pan baffle plate for a BB L71? I found quite a bit of information in the archives on the subject but couldn't seem to find a picture of how this bolts up to the mains.

Thanks for your help

Bob

Bob-----


I don't have a photo available, but it's a pretty simple installation to explain. First, the inner, long main bearing cap bolts on #3 and #4 positions are replaced with special studs, GM #3902885, and the oil pump bolt is removed. Next, the windage tray is installed over the studs, so that it seats on the flange of the studs. Lastly, the oil pump bolt is installed through the hole at the rear of the windage tray (which should align with the oil pump bolt hole) and 3/8-16 nuts are installed on the 4 studs. Done.

By the way, I prefer to use SAE grade 5 or 8, 3/8-16 FLANGED nuts OR 3/8-16 standard hex nuts with flat washers. Use Locktite 242 on the nuts.

[Robert K.]

Re: Oil Pan Baffle Plate

Joe,

Thank you - you are always such a big help to me. I understand now. For a couple of follow-on question(s); 1) are there any lockwashers used or does the locktite suffice and 2) do you know if the special studs are still available?

Thanks again Joe,

Bob

[Joe L.]

Re: Oil Pan Baffle Plate

Joe,

Thank you - you are always such a big help to me. I understand now. For a couple of follow-on question(s); 1) are there any lockwashers used or does the locktite suffice and 2) do you know if the special studs are still available?

Thanks again Joe,

Bob

Bob-----


I don't recall if the original installation used lockwashers, or not. However, I recommend the use of a flat washer with Locktite on the threads. Locktite is far superior to a lockwasher of any type. In fact, they might have used it when the engines were originally built except it had not been invented yet.

The GM #3902885 studs remain available from GM (for about 21 bucks, each, GM list).

[Clem Z.]

Re: Oil Pan Baffle Plate

the factory used crimped type lock nuts. NEVER use a split type lock washer inside a engine as they can break and fail

[Robert K.]

Re: Oil Pan Baffle Plate

Clem,

Makes good sense. When you say "crimped type", are you referring to the "serrated" edge of the bolt which comes in contact with the block?

Thanks Clem......

[Joe L.]

Re: Oil Pan Baffle Plate

Clem,

Makes good sense. When you say "crimped type", are you referring to the "serrated" edge of the bolt which comes in contact with the block?

Thanks Clem......

Robert----


Crimped style lock nuts are the type with distorted thread or "indentions" on the end which serve to lock the thread. These are quite common. The problem with these is that most of those on the market today are "ungraded" material strength or SAE grade 2. I won't use either type in the internals of an engine, even though for an application like retaining the windage tray those material grades are probably adequate.

[Joe C.]

Re: Oil Pan Baffle Plate

Would anyone have a picture of an installed oil pan baffle plate for a BB L71? I found quite a bit of information in the archives on the subject but couldn't seem to find a picture of how this bolts up to the mains.

Thanks for your help

Bob

Here is an L76.
Similar mount system for your BBC.
Note crimp nuts.

[Robert K.]

Re: Oil Pan Baffle Plate

Joe,

Great Pictures - now it makes even more sense!! Thanks also for the pictures of the crimped nuts!

I appreciate your help!!

Bob