Fuse block diagram 1962

[John F.]

Does anyone have a diagram of the fuse block on a 62 and what size fuses are in each slot? The paint is pretty much worn off and hard to see. All was working fine and then lost dash lights, courtesy light, and tail lights. Brand new light switch in past year as well as rear tail light assemblies and courtesy light.

[Gary C.]

Re: Fuse block diagram 1962

John, have you checked a 62 AIM? It should contain that info. Gary....

[William C.]

Re: Fuse block diagram 1962

Check the AIM section 12, sheet 12 for fuse locations, the fuses were installed at St louis. Remember no colored bands used on '62 fuses.

[John F.]

Re: Fuse block diagram 1962

I have looked at that diagram and the fuse specs on page 14-18 of the Servicing guide. I need to know what amp fuse goes in each slot from top to bottom on the right side of the fuse block.
John

[William C.]

Re: Fuse block diagram 1962

OK, from the top and using the wiring print and the owners manual, this is as good as I can get, the top is the IP lamps, 3 amp, Next is the heater circuit, 10 amp, Shown as empty in the AIM as heater was optional, Next is Radio, 7 1/2 amp, next 2 are empty, then the bottom is tail, stop, courtesy lamp, 15 amp. Hopefully that makes sense.

[John F.]

Re: Fuse block diagram 1962

OK, from the top and using the wiring print and the owners manual, this is as good as I can get, the top is the IP lamps, 3 amp, Next is the heater circuit, 10 amp, Shown as empty in the AIM as heater was optional, Next is Radio, 7 1/2 amp, next 2 are empty, then the bottom is tail, stop, courtesy lamp, 15 amp. Hopefully that makes sense.

William, thank you so much, I will be working on it tomorrow.

John

[John F.]

Re: Fuse block diagram 1962

Put all new fuses in per above and left the two slots empty. Still no tail,stop,dash or courtesy lights. Where do I start next?

[Bob H.]

Re: Fuse block diagram 1962

First I think you may have the fuses backwards but we'll get to that.

It sounds like you may not have a test light or voltmeter handy. However, I believe your problem is likely the firewall plug inside the engine compartment. If you don't have a way to check voltage then try reseating this plug. I think voltage comes from the horn relay and goes through this plug. It sounds like you don't have battery voltage on the fuse box since I think your light issues go through two different fuses. Short of testing for voltage, check out corrosion or even a pin backed out of the plug.

Back to the fuse box, the fuses were given to you correctly but here is where they are:

Top fuse: Tail lamp, license, courtesy
next: Blank
next: Backup Lights/Brake Alarm
next: Radio
next: Heater
Bottom Instrument Lights and Clock Light

Hopefully, someone else will confirm this as I'm going from a fading memory

Bob

[John F.]

Re: Fuse block diagram 1962

First I think you may have the fuses backwards but we'll get to that.

It sounds like you may not have a test light or voltmeter handy. However, I believe your problem is likely the firewall plug inside the engine compartment. If you don't have a way to check voltage then try reseating this plug. I think voltage comes from the horn relay and goes through this plug. It sounds like you don't have battery voltage on the fuse box since I think your light issues go through two different fuses. Short of testing for voltage, check out corrosion or even a pin backed out of the plug.

Back to the fuse box, the fuses were given to you correctly but here is where they are:

Top fuse: Tail lamp, license, courtesy
next: Blank
next: Backup Lights/Brake Alarm
next: Radio
next: Heater
Bottom Instrument Lights and Clock Light

Hopefully, someone else will confirm this as I'm going from a fading memory

Bob

I put in new fuses (amp) per above thread. Advise proper amps. Where is the firewall plug?

[John H.]

Re: Fuse block diagram 1962

John -

Here's a '62 fuse block photo.

[John F.]

Re: Fuse block diagram 1962

John -

Here's a '62 fuse block photo.

John, Looks just like mine and I have placed new fuses in each slot and left #2 & #3 empty. Still nothing!
The turn signals work all the way around.

[William C.]

Re: Fuse block diagram 1962

Then you need to check your power feed into the FB to insure you have incoming power to none side of each fuse. Next since you appear to be using an original fuseblock, check for continuity between each fuse clip and the metal band on the fuse. Originally the fuse clips were made by a process that included metal stamping, followed by heat treating, then a copper plating followed by a Silver plating. Over the years, oxidation builds up between the plated surface and the fuse (or the plating fails and RUST ensues) and this problem can destroy effective contact and thus current flow thru the fuse.

[Bob H.]

Re: Fuse block diagram 1962

If you have turn signals, do you also have brake lights also?


You really need a test light or voltmeter. Everything points to the light switch not getting positive 12 volts. You should have 12 volts on the 14 guage red wire at the switch. once there is power there, it is distributed to the rear via the 20 guauge black wire and to the front lights via the 20 guage violet lead. The dash lights and courtesy lights are fed off different leads from the light switch. Unless the entire light switch is hosed up, I would bet you are missing the 12 volts. If the 12 volts is present it must be the switch.

If you don't have the volts then you must back up to the fuse box and see if there is voltage on both sides of the bottom fuse. Keep in mind you could even have corrosion on the clamps that hold the fuse keeping it from a good connection and passing on 12 volts to the light switch. I would clean them to insure a solid connection. I would hate to bypass the fuse but you could temporarily. I must say if you aren't familiar with a voltmeter then invest in a $5 test light from a parts store or Harbor Freight and narrow down where the problem is. You'll likely use it in the future as well.

Bob

[John F.]

Re: Fuse block diagram 1962

[quote=Bob Hoffman (34576);439540]If you have turn signals, do you also have brake lights also?


You really need a test light or voltmeter. Everything points to the light switch not getting positive 12 volts. You should have 12 volts on the 14 guage red wire at the switch. once there is power there, it is distributed to the rear via the 20 guauge black wire and to the front lights via the 20 guage violet lead. The dash lights and courtesy lights are fed off different leads from the light switch. Unless the entire light switch is hosed up, I would bet you are missing the 12 volts. If the 12 volts is present it must be the switch.

If you don't have the volts then you must back up to the fuse box and see if there is voltage on both sides of the bottom fuse. Keep in mind you could even have corrosion on the clamps that hold the fuse keeping it from a good connection and passing on 12 volts to the light switch. I would clean them to insure a solid connection. I would hate to bypass the fuse but you could temporarily. I must say if you aren't familiar with a voltmeter then invest in a $5 test light from a parts store or Harbor Freight and narrow down where the problem is. You'll likely use it in the future as well.

Bob, No brake lights. The light switch was brand new this past year. I will see if O'Reillys have a test light tomorrow.
John

[Bob H.]

Re: Fuse block diagram 1962

John:

Once you have a test light I think we'll find the problem. If you don't have brkae lights AND don't have tail lights, it really looks like my original suggestion of no power to those two fuses on the block or just bad contacts on the fuses. The top fuse powers the brake lights and the bottom power courtesy, dash. Could be poor connections on both fuse holders. Just had that problem with my brake lights!

Does the horn work?